So I'm 19 and still green when it comes to the specifics of engine overhauling, but I have a 1978 Mustang II with an 2.3L stock engine under the hood, which while she runs well, and doesn't give me too many problems, she doesn't give me too much pep either, and I was wondering if anyone could give me any help on trying to coax a few more horses out from her without anything too drastic and pricey considering I'm on a DIY college student budget for this Any help is appreciated, just don't say to get rid of the car or the engine XD
there are several classes of circle track racing that use the 2300 motor along with others as engines..here are some articles on some of the RACE stuff done.. including NEW RACE 2300 blocks.. tall deck versions also.. what is the world coming to???http://www.circletrack.com/sch/02/esslinger/articles/what you do to your 78 mustang II depends on several things.. as you are not going to be able to match race john force or even one of his daughters with it.. more power is great..one issue.. do you have to smog test it... modifications might effect that..the easy things are cam swaps.. you do have to remove the motor mount bolts.. jack the motor up slightly. get behind the rear cam stand in the head and remove 2 #3 phillips head screws that hold the cam thrust plate in.. but the cam will slide right out the front of the engine over the top of the core support..there are rocker arm tools to assist in removing and replacing the rocker arm/cam followers.. this is not a super hard job.. probably 4 hours. plan on 6 or 8 hours. i have done them in 2 but i have a huge tool box full of tools and lots of experience.. you can even save money by contacting local cam grinders.. well actually cam REGRINDERS.. some have various masters for overhead performance cams.. the major cam suppliers also have new cams in various performance improvements..there is one thing that you will have to understand.. that engine came with a holley /weber 5200/5210 carb.. they work like every other conventional carb.. but they are tuned with different components.. most people don't understand them as they get flat spots off idle.. PLEASE.. if you decide to rebuild that carb.. check the mounting flange for a tiny stamped part number.. R-1234-a something like that. there are also many parts in that carb that look almost identical.. its critical that you find a decent blow up diagram of the carb.. and as you remove the parts note the individual part numbers off the brass jets, air bleeds and emulsion tubes.. so they can go back in the proper location...there is tuning parts for the carb available.. as when you start changing things.. you will need to probably need to change the idle feed restrictions.. there are also some books available.. how to power tune the FORD SOHC how to modify ford SOHC engines.
look at this 5200 style carb.. at IDLE..now.. look at it OFF IDLE...the primary idle jet on the holley weber 5200 series is sometimes a sealed version. its on the drivers side of the carb.. this is the single part that needs to be swapped out for various sizes to try to get the idle fuel transition feed back into the proper area..if its too lean.. it will fall on its face.. if its too rich.. it will also fall on its face..but also wipe out fuel economy. get it right and you will love this carb..