Hello CarCraft Forums,I am a long-time owner of a 1967 Jaguar MKII 3.8 S (s-type). I want to restore my paint to its factory condition to bring my car's black paint back to its original luster.It has several issues:1) There are several small dings where the paint is scratched and the body is dented VERY slightly.2) The paint feels rough. It is not terribly smooth after 46 years, and has MANY MANY almost undetectable scratches and "swirls". It is garaged now, but was not always, and has experienced the seasons for many years. 3) Some places along the more severe curvature of the body are cracked (this is also called "alligatoring, checking, crow’s feet, spitting or crazing" I hear.)I need to know how I can refinish the cracked parts, finish the car to be smooth, buff it, and the best way to do a long-lasting and lustered wax. (http://tinypic.com/r/2qnwsba/5)(http://tinypic.com/r/2gy9aty/5)Please respond with any ideas or product/machinery recommendations.Thanks,Pascal
oh.. these are your images.. i just linked them properly.. all i can say is WOW. what a ride..lets see what some of the forum members say.. i know that one member.. idrivejunk is his name might have some ideas..close ups of the paint is a good idea.. this is really hard to do over the internet..you will probably want to contact a local automotive paint store. why. several times a month.. they will have contact with various paint and refinishing products factory salesmen.. depending on where you live.. you might want to also contact your local Rolls Royce dealership.. and see if they have a factory approved body shop or detail company. that can handle antique paint .. this frightens me.. as i have seen some people attack cars with a big polisher and NO experience.. where the boss was hired and the low buck untrained or UNDER QUALIFIED help did the work.. i should mention that i grew up working with my father in a paint store that sold to major movie studios and furniture refinishers.. then worked in a caddy restoration shop.. where each car spent several months in the paint area getting sanded and perfected.. i am totally spoiled on paint jobs now.. i cannot reach the quality i want.. so i have given up on my own stuff.. the checked areas worry me the most.. as anything that gets applied to the surface is going to get into and between the checks.. and STICKOUT LIKE A SORE THUMB.. i would like to know.. if you are intending to attempt this your self.. if you have garage space.. out of the sun.. out of the wind.. out of any DIRT that could blow thru and get into your working area of paint.. with enough light to almost need sunglasses to look at your black paint so you can see any imperfections.. i am talking massive portable walls of florescent lighting.. that has a vertical wall of tubes and an over head section.. also a work area.. that will not be damaged by hose downs.. a major issue in most garages... my idea of a garage is the bottom row of drywall is green sheet or cement board.. with ceramic tiles that are cemented to the wall and cement is sealed to the floor.. so water cannot wick back into the wall... you can tell by this.. i have thought about this for a while.. in the short run..you are going to need to examine things like CLAY bars..rottenstone or bentonite dry polishing with variable speed polisher and proper pads..hint. this is how they polished the black nitrocellulose lacquer paint we sold for pianos.. the black we sold.. spent 2 weeks in a ball mill getting blended into the lacquer at the factory. i painted my 66 GTO with it.. and polished it to a mirror finish.. i had 2 gallons of it left over. but i lost it in a storage locker that i let go last year.. but that's a moot point.. you are going to not only need a 7 or 9 inch polisher. you will need on of the 3 inch polishers also.. lets see what some of the other forum members say... wayne..
Wayne,I like the idea of clay barring the car in my garage. I had honestly not heard of that option.I like chemical guys products a lot, mostly because they have a wax that is absolutely outstanding that I use now. I'm excited about how much more outstanding the wax will be after the car has been clay barred I'm definitely interested in this product: http://www.chemicalguys.com/Chemical_Guys_CLY_KIT_1_Poly_Clay_Bar_Luber_S_p/cly_kit_1.htmand [this] is the wax I use: http://www.chemicalguys.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=wac_111So far the plan is:clay barwashwaxThoughts anyone?
please.. USE extreme care on which clay bar you select... there are various grits in them.. from fast cut.. to ultra fine.. with that black car.. you will want the ultra fine.. you also have to understand.. the car has to be SPOTLESS CLEAN... please.. also.. if you are going to work in your garage.. with the car out and away from the garage.. and before you have washed it..blow off the rafters and walls.. then the floor of your garage.. so you have LESS CHANCE of any dust or debris landing in your work area.. and contaminating the clay bar that will scratch your paint.. please.. also .. and again.. after you have verified that they are totally clean.. start with a small piece of clay on the rocker panels.. don't blend that back into the main bar.. for fear of cross contamination.. have a moving blanket to lay on.. this allows you to work laying down in comfort.. on areas that cannot be seen easily.. DON"T START on the HOOD OR TRUNK.. or fenders... try it on an out of the way place.. door jams.. is a good place..use a leaf blower or your shop vacuum on blow to clean the dust or dirt out..mop the floor to get any additional dirt up.. sorry.. i don't want your finish ruined.. in one shop i worked at.. the body guy was taking a break.. walked past the detail guy while he was polishing a car.. the body guy was covered in debris and sneezed.. the dust flew off and landed a few particals on the clean car.. here comes the buffer.. talk about screwed up.. giant scratches in the surface before the detail guy could stop. blow your self off with leaf blower or vacuum blower.. so you get all the particles after cleaning the garage..i can see your car.. and there is probably not a single dust particle in there.. but i cannot see... i only know from experience.. and have my crystal ball .. So far the plan is:clean work area..clean self.. wash carwash cardetail the nooks and crannys on the car..wash carclay barwashwash..wash.. you want any residue removed from the car.. use fresh buckets and different towels and wash mits... especially before the clay bar and the waxing.waxi am also taking that you have a detail brush??? its like a natural bristle paint brush.. 1 1/4 or 1 1/2 wide.. but bristles only 3/8 long.. so you can drag them thru the hard to reach spots to clean..
I read the post earlier and wasn't sure if the question was about painting or polishing.The cracked areas cannot be resolved without repainting.The car may not be entirely covered in original paint, but odds are that everything on it is lacquer.On clay bars- in addition to wayne's suggestions- only the finest grade should be used, and with the recommended lubricant. I would hesitate to even touch it with a clay bar, myself. Too much potential for damage that would require at least buffing to correct.I would not want to remove any black at all, so leveling the swirl marks and hazy lines would be out of the question. All thats left is to bury them in wax but it is important to get it very clean first. Try diluted rubbing alcohol on greasy spots. I'm not much of a detailer or paint care person, but a painter from the acrylic urethane era. Those finishes require little attention over the years. Lacquers are completely different and I have little experience with them.Refinishing the car would make it stunning but would exceed the value of the car if done nicely.One trick I can share from a time when I was doing the make-ready on new $100K+ Mercedes that were black ... after my last coat of wax and lightly rubbing off the haze with one pass from a terry cloth I used a water hose connected directly to a water heater and sort of melted the remaining wax with the heat. That way, I could just pull it into the sun and use a fresh chamois only to dry it. No rub marks at all that way, and a soft cotton cloth worked around the edges to finish.Lacquer is delicate by comparison to today's finishes, err to the side of caution in your work. Check the Meguiar's product line out, it is vast and trustworthy. Maybe it has an early type of enamel since its a high-end car, I don't know. Either way, that sure is a fine ride so I wish you the best of luck in your pursuit of gloss. My best suggestion is to not touch it with any kind of polishing machine, but to do all the work by hand, and repaint any panels that are ugly enough to harm the overall appearance and value.
Wheel Rims Repairing & Paint Restoration at Al Meeraj for 149 AED