I have a 2004 5.7 Volvo Penta Gi-E with a cracked block. It has a 1 piece rear main seal. I am wondering if the SBC 350 engine block from a 99 chevy truck would be a direct replacement for that block. Can anyone shed some light on this? I guess the root question I have is are the Chevy 350 blocks with 1pc rear main seal all the same? Are there any significant changes in the block from 1999 to 2004?Tyler Christ
there are a few forum members who will know this.. you might want to post thisyou can check the casting numbers on the side of the block or on the back above the transmission mounting area.. there are slight differences in components.. you will want to use stainless steel freeze plugs and marine specific head gaskets.. i personally use hylomar on all my head gaskets. i have had some motors that got overheated and the head gaskets did not fail.. so.. post a casting number and the julian date.. (\)B149(/) this would indicate feb 14 1989, 1999 2009
The old block I am replacing:Casting number10243880Unknown casting dateNew block Casting number10054727Casting dateJ 18 1Any insight would be appreciated
the first one.. you will also need the info from the right cylinder deck.. stamping numbers to identify..10243880...350...95-00...2 or 4...Vortec truck, Gen.I crate motors and "ZZ4", roller cam, one piece rear seal this is a very widely used block.. could be almost anything.. 10054727...350...86-up...2 or 4...one piece rear seal, some "Made in Canada"J 18 1 is oct 18.. probably 1991.. so its for a 92 model.. your casting number...can you find these set of stamping numbers on the passenger side from cylinder deck surface.. this lower block does not seem to have roller lifters...
please compare the front of the engines..vortec engines used a PLASTIC TIMING COVER... NON vortec and blocks prior to 1995 used a steel timing cover...this is a major difference in how much stuff stacks in there and how all your accessories are going to bolt on..the early BLOCKS cannot easily accept the vortec crank sensor because the plastic timing cover will not seal.. there is also a difference in the front of the crank.. please also.. CHECK THE THREAD PITCH of the starter bolts..Crate engines are usually 3/8-16 with stripes on the heads of the bolts..all other GM engines 1982 and up have Metric starter bolts.. except for the performance built engines...why... if you use SAE bolts in a metric block.. the starter may come loose..if you attempt to put metric bolts into the SAE holes.. you WILL SPLIT THE corner off the block.. it has happened hundreds of times.. end of engine block usually.
all of my books are boxed this month.. so i cannot get to the books i want to cross reference it.. perhaps some of the other forum members can help.. if you can also supply images or stamping numbers off the front.. use photobucket and upload some images there.. then paste links here..
The assembly information from the old block:1M12154MHStill having trouble on the casting date. There is a large 03 and 2 around the GM marking. This block was brand new in a 2004 model boat. Assembly number for the new block:K0923TDF
Old block:New block:
i see the plastic timing cover that MAY cause you issues with the earlier block..i will take me a few hours to work thru all the forums tonight and get back to your id codes.. i think you need to find a 96 up vortec block.. but i am not sure yet...got any pictures of the front of the RED motor??? and the bare front of the black motor..
what i have not ask.. is the fuel system a vortec???with the flat top distributor cap.. the plastic clamshell intake with the fuel lines into the center next to a harness. vortec all the way...http://www.keypart.com/volvo-penta/petrol-engine/57gie/20032005the earlier motor NOT being a vortec and not accepting the plastic timing cover.. the crank not accepting the crank tone wheel .. you are out of luck..find a vortec block and crank..
The red engine had a fuel injection system on it. The air filter is on the top if the intake instead of the front like some vortec models like my truck. It has the flat top distributor cap. The fuel lines/rails run down each side of the intake to the injectors. The earlier engine was assembled with vortec heads when I got it. Here are pictures of the fronts of each engine. Sorry about the balancer being in the way. I'm taking that off later today. Didn't have the tool.
Sorry about the double post.
Got the timing chain cover and balancer off.
notice on the RED block.. that the timing cover mounting surface has significant more width on the outside of the bolt pattern where the plastic timing cover silicone gaskets seals..that won't seal properly on the black earlier block.. the cam is also a roller in the red block probably with a thrust plate to retain the cam..do as you first posted.. 96 to 99 block.. don't forget.. stainless steel freeze plugs...hylomar on the marine spec stainless head gaskets...sealer on the head bolts. i usually use hylomar on the threads. and under the head of the bolts.. you can also use hylomar on all the bolt threads.. to prevent corrosion.. please.. tack weld the oil pump pickup into place. so you have 1/4 to 5/16 gap and its level with the bottom of the pan.. so it cannot wiggle out.. if your pump uses a plastic collar on the oil pump shaft.. replace it with a steel collared version.. like a melling IS-55E.. if the cam and lifters are not destroyed you can reuse them... roller cam and roller lifters...run roller on inner wrist to feel if there is any rumbling.. that would be bad.. since this is a marine motor.. and will run for extended periods at moderately high RPMs.. take the main cap over to the work bench.. break out your die grinder and port the oil passage around the bolt hole.. i have a long ball carbide bit and i go down inside the passage where it changes angles and round out the sharp corners that were left by the drill. .shhh!!! don't tell anybody.. but i have also done that below the diversion plug.. where the oil makes a left turn out to the filter..