A friend of mine has a 96 Jag XJS and we were wondering what all would have to be done to this thing to get it up and running since it hasn't be on the road since late 2000 early 2001
a MASSIVE PILE OF CASH.... usually gets the engine started... anything else is additional...it depends on what wrong with it.. it could have a blown up motor..it could have a blown up transmission.. it probably has electrical issues.. it could have power steering issues..it could have power brake issues..please... read the OWNERS manual completely in the section that describes what types of fluids go where.. jaguars are very specific about brake fluid .. and about the power steering fluids.. or something like that. the last 95 XJ6 i worked on needed new ignition coils and the boots.. i was quoted a crazy price of like 300 bucks a coil... and yes.. there are 6 of them.. i found some for 75 bucks each.. but the owner still balked.. an 88 XJ6.. which is slightly different.. i fixed the bulb out indicator by removing the 4 relay boxes for the directional and brake lamps.. cracked them open and resoldered the boards.. those were $350 each also.. i did it for an hours labor for each one.. the tire shop got to play with the 88 xj6 next.. they called me and ask if i knew any GOOD JUNK Yards where they have used jaguar computers that don't burn out as soon as you plug them in.. they had gone thru 7 and the car still would not start.. i decided to now have my tires done there anymore after they ask where they could find used brake rotors for giant japanese delivery trucks.. or if i knew somebody who could weld up the cracks..
on the jag...pull the radiator cap.. stretch some sandwich wrap across the filler neck.. push it in slightly with your finger.. to make a dent.. \/ place a rubber band around the outside to hold it in place and make it kinda air tight.. crank the engine over.. make sure the bag did not inflate.. change from \/ to /\ that would indicate a blown headgasket. then with a radiator pressure tester.. and check that the cooling system holds pressure..you might want to perform this with the spark plugs out.. and then crank the engine look for fountains of coolant.. if you see fountains of coolant from the radiator... then there are additional problems.. then perform a compression test... plug in an OBD2 scan tool.. the harbor freight 98614 or the newer versions will work with this car.. so you can look thru the sensor data ... spend some time and clean all the grounds.. why. this is a british car.. its designed to be maintained..
Listen to Wayne..... that checking for the blown head gasket is GENIUS! I am going to use that one from now on. Change all the fuids (making sure to use OEM or equivalent fluids) Fresh plugs, Do a continuity check on the coils, replace the coil boots. replace all the belts and hoses. Trans and rear end fluid change. New battery and battery cables. Also look at the fuel system. been sitting for 12 years who knows what is in there. I just bought a 97 BMW and have to wait until I get back from deployment to get it running for the first time in at least 4 years. Luckily my car was almost empty when it was left to rot.
i have another test to check for blown head gaskets. i use this in shops where i have all my tools.. and access to shop compressed air..basic test is identical to a cylinder leak down test.. except i take the valve core out of my compression tester hose and hook that directly to the quick connect on the shop air hose.. the cylinder leak down tester hose has a restriction.. the compression tester hose with the special low pressure valve core removed flows a LOT of air.. when i rotate the engine to the various cylinders to check each one at TDC on the compression stroke.. ( where the rotor is pointing at the wire to that spark plug.. ) when i find one that leaks into the radiator.. i leave the setup there and call the customer.. i usually have some kind of tapered plug or radiator pressure adaptor with clear vinyl hose on it and looped over the hood latch.. partially filled with coolant or water...when the customer gets there.. i show them the failure by hooking up the air hose to the compression tester hose... when bubbles start coming out the radiator.. i have proven a leak in the head gasket or combustion chamber..this does not show up the leaks that happen in the exhaust ports past the valve seats.. but a long term radiator pressure test will show those up perhaps a bag over the tail pipe on that one also.. i sometimes mark the damper to assist in getting close to TDC with my remote starter button...
So what other tricks do you have? And do you mind if I share them on another site?
do you know how many posts i have... thousands.. across close to 20 magazine sites here..you can share them if you understand them.. i keep few secrets... most people treat them with the NIH mentality.. Not Invented Here..what other sites??? when i run thru my bookmarks.. 3 or 4 times a night.. i keep getting the same pop up that says.. you have reached the end of the internet.. thank you for visiting..well... so long and thanks for all the fish...my IT guy spent 6 hours today working on my various computers, smart phones, tablets. video cameras, blast door access pads.. we have been installing RF shielding around the fiber optic cabling need to protect it from the EMPI.. you never know when some volkswagen engine is going to explode. and scatter EMPI debris all over the place.. and if you don't understand what i just said.. you are not alone.. but i bet there are a bunch of people out there that read that and have blown beer out their nose all over their keyboards..want to talk about idle transition circuits.. or APT adjustments on quadrajets..
I would share these Zen testing methods with several boards I am on.SBFtech (already shared it there, Bansheehq, BMW boards and more)I get the empi reference I had a 65 RHD beetle (Cal look with porsche wide 5's) with an empi stinger and various other bits. along with dual dellarto's. I loved that car.
vw guy.. i worked for les martin's european racing in hermosa beach many many years ago... i learned a LOT about VWs parts working there.. i still run across something i bought there once in a while.. usually the single female to double male quick connects that are scattered all over air cooled VWs.. why not share my voltage drop test.. 'engine running.. headlights on.. digital meter set to 20 volts DC..1. Negative battery post to the Positive battery post.. 14.1 to 14.8 volts is expected.2. Negative battery post to the Engine block.. 0.04 volts DC MAX..3. Negative battery post to the Body.. 0.02 volts DC MAX..4. Engine block to the Body.. 0.02 volts DC MAXif you get more than the 4/100th or 2/100th of a volt on test 2, 3, 4.. you have a ground connection issue that needs to be fixed.. then tested again to prove it..why.. because electrons flow from negative to positive.. if you loose a ground connection . you won't have enough electrons to make the electrical component work..like you knocked the extension cord out of the wall.. standing there wondering why the power drill just quit spinning.. this is just the first step in diagnosis.. but you have to pass this test or you will be buying new power drills when the extension cord is just out of the wall.. the 4/100 and the 2/100 is the actual resistance of the copper wire when current is flowing thru it.
Does the engine turn over when you use a wrench on the crank sprocket? Remove all the spark plugs and load the cylinders up with a good penetrating oil. Let it sit for a day then turn the crank. You will probably get some resistance. Then do the same thing again and again until the crank moves freely. Once that's done blow out the fuel lines from the gas tank forward. Replace any rotten or rusted fuel lines. Go through the carb make sure the carb and fuel lines are clean. Replace the coolant with a fresh mix of 50/50. Change the oil replace the spark plugs, make sure you have a good battery. Go through the distributor. put a new cap, rotor and wires on it. Then try to start it. With any luck the valves aren't stuck in the valve guides. Fresh gas, clean engine oil and filter. I would leave the spark plugs out and crank the engine until you have oil pressure. Then once you have it running go through the brakes, and break system.Bob"NO RICE BURNERS ALLOWED"
I do not know, all I know is that the vehicle was likely driven into the garage and just parked there, I know none of the history behind this vehicle