Hey guys I'm rebuilding a 383 stroker and need to know where to find the cheapest parts that are still dependable for my build. I'm basically doing an overhaul on bottom end and changing top end. I'm going with vortec heads that are already rebuilt and wanting to change my motor to a true full roller motor. I'm looking for solid roller lifters, full roller rockers, and the most aggressive cam the vortec heads can handle. Then i need to know a timing chain and gear set, best intake manifold for that setup with a 454 TBI unit on it with an adjustable fuel pressure regulator. And I'll be running long tube headers. Also input about TBI spacers and what TBI mods actually work would be greatly appreciated.
Honestly you would be best served to buy a used 350 to keep your truck running and save for the best parts you can get. You used convert to roller valve train and cheap in the same thread..... those 2 do not go together when you buy quality parts.However if you watch the clearance(garage sale page) pages on a lot of cam retailers web sites you can get a good deal on a quality cam, however it will not "perfect" for your application. The Vortec heads are great OE heads, but you will have to spend some coin to make them work with a solid roller cam, why not get some aftermarket heads. World products makes some that are E.O. legal and will pass smog (even in California) they are cast iron (read cheap to manufacture)have a 64 or 76cc chamber and come with screw in studs and guideplates alreadyI would also suggest using a conversion to Multiport EFI from the TBI, that type of EFI SERIOUSLY limits HP potential. Ties into the budget section you said is the most important part of this build. With almost anything hobby wise you get what you pay for.You can get a good rotating assembly, scat cast crank, forged I beam rods and Hyper eutectic pistons. I have had good luck with Northern Auto parts for kits like that. Hypereutectic pistons are extra but not bad for what you get.
Jegs or Summitracing. Racing junk, or maybe a local swap meet paper. When you are talking solid roller cams and lifters sit down when the price hits you. You can easily spend a $1,000 in a heart beat. Rethink what your going to be using your build for. Solid roller cams are really for race engines. Unless you want to install a tight lash cam in your engine and get ready to adjust the lifters at least once a week until the cam and lifters all seat in to each other. Hydraulic roller cams are the way to go today. Hydraulic flat tappet cams are on the way out. The lobe wear has become a very big problem ever since the EPA mandated the oil companies to remove ZZT from they're oils. I have an '86 with a factory flat tappet cam in it. When I change the oil I use Diesel Oil 15/40. They still run ZZT in the Diesel oil. If have used it for years. We use it on the dyno when we break in new engines with flat tappet cams. If you do use it don't be taken by it's color. Its black because of the additives. But if you use a flat tappet cam follow the cam makers procedure.Bob