Here is my problem, working on a 1982 Chevy S10 pickup. It has a 2.8l V6 engine with no frills added. But I decided to replace the ignition parts, distributor and rotor, wire set, plugs and coil. The original coil was GM OE, black thing with four male connectors. I bought a Mallory coil (red color) which was compatible with the model. There was a difference in the connection though, it had four female connections, so I had to get a new connector plug from junkyard car. I spliced the original wires to the plug, the truck started and ran for a few minutes the up a stopped. Now it will not start. I. Have searched the web, YouTube, Ask etc. even went to the Mallory site to get a diagram of the wire connections need, can't find what I want.I have done tests on the new coli compaired to old, get about .4 ohms on the primary and 8900 ohms on secondary coils, have 12V on pin 1' there is a kind of pink (heavy gage) wire on pin 1, a white wire on pin 2 going to the distrutor, pin 3 is a white ground wire, and. Brown wire on pin 4 going to the distributor also. So I have energy going in but No spark out....Pin configuration:(back of engine). Pin 3 white wire ground. X. X. Pin 1. Heavy. Gage pink wire with 12V Pin 4 brown wire to Dis. X. X pin 2. Regular gage white wire to Dis.From one search I saw, it said pin 2 and pin 3 was the primary coil. Measures about 4 ohms.From coil to dis post and pin 1 or 4 even 3. Get a reading of about 9k ohms.What should be connected where?..
let me explain the factory wiring...big red wire to the positive side of the external coil... but the other wire from the positive side of the coil connects to the ignition module B+ terminal via the wiring harness..the wire from the Negative side of the coil connects to the module C terminal via the wiring harness..and an interesting test to perform.. connect a test light to the big red coil positive wire... ground the other end to the engine.. i normally when i can set the test light up backwards so i can see the test light from the drivers seat... i then turn the key from OFF to ON.. and then crank the engine and then release the key back to the ON position.. then turn it off.. this will take you about 2 minutes to complete the hook up and test.. why... because i have found many IGNITION SWITCHES.. not just GM .. that had intermittent contacts and caused owners and mechanics headaches.. from the ON position, while cranking.. and back to the ON position.. you should NOT have any blackouts of your test light..
if you are looking at wiring diagrams.. like this one.. ITS DRAWN WRONG... look at the right side of the image.. its shown as the the pink wire from the ignition switch to the coil as going thru the windings.. but it should actually be shown as a jump from the same side of the primary coil winding.. not the far side.. this is enough to confuse all kinds of people..