ok so i got a 76' mustang II that is in my garage. it was my grandmothers but she had eye problems and had to park it. it has 136,XXX miles, been garaged for the last 20 years, all O.E. stock. beautiful!! so i want to get it out and drive it since im 19 and want a car. I'm going to school to be an auto mechanic so i know some background too. as far as how to hold a wrench lol. in other words im not new to this stuff... anyways i got the fan and everything to turn so I'm like 90% sure it's not seized. what I want to know is where should I start? I'm currently on crutches and healing from a skateboarding accident and have plenty of time on my hands so i want to get the car prepped and ready for work in next week or two. where should I start, main problems I should be looking for, any tips, ways to save costs.P.S. things I have already done: the battery is dead, I jumped a battery to it and all the lights turned on and everything as far as that worked. but when my antsy friend tried to start it, it just clicked. which probably mean's it needs a new starter, or the battery in the mustang currently is so dead it cant absorb enough energy to turn the motor...
welcome to the forums.. don't replace the starter... yet... put a freshly charged battery in.. you might want to put a 15/16 socket on the alternator pulley bolt.. and slowly work the crank around..you did not say which of the 3 possible motors it came with.. the 2.3 four.. the 2.8 V6.. or the small block 302 V8..if it has a V6 or V8 and it has a FUNNY looking carb... with sliders on the top... DO NOT spray carb cleaner in or around it.. its a variable venturi carb.. and they work great when they work.. there is a big diaphragm on the back to pull the slider back when the vacuum above the throttle blades increases... it melts with carb spray... pick up a stainless steel wire tooth brush from the paint or hardware store.. you will want to count the wires on the starter solenoid on the inner fender.. take one nut off at a time.. wire brush both sides of each wire ring terminal. wire brush the stud... wire brush the inside face of the nut... count wires and reassemble.. go to the starter cable and clean both ends.. got a camera... post some pictures to photobucket.. and the image links here..feel free to ask questions.. i know these models really well..there are a bunch of different magazines on this site.. around 40 or so... most have forums... all have archives and tech section ...what section of auto repair are you studying in school???
that alternator thing you mentioned is actually exactly what i did hehe. I have the 2.8 v6 model. thanks for the info on the carb cleaner. I am def. one who would have tried that...I will get on that starter solenoid asap. thank you so much for your reply Wayne. I'm not in the class yet. I am still taking me pre-requisite classes. but I believe it's just general car repairs. the name of the class (may or may not make a difference) is called "automotive service technician" lol it seems that i should pay more attention to things around me lol.
there is just SO much to learn...pre_requisites ... hmm... thats strange.. hopefully electronics.. basic automotive theory.. or autolab.. when i went to tech school about 35 years ago.. why don't you take up some study.. google my user name... i cover a like 20 different forums here.. do you have a different car that runs??? at least starts.. lets learn a basic diagnostic step that i do to almost every car i work on... as it comes in.. and before it leaves...check out this thread i started on another magazine here..http://forums.jpmagazine.com/70/9391074/jeep-engine/jeep-grounds-where-to-and-how-to-check-them-in-min/like i said.. each magazine has a tech archive.. an article archive.. a search window.. featured cars archive also...find this icon at the bottom of this page..once there.. click the OUR SITES tab.. that will take you to a list of most of the magazines on this site.. there are even 4 mustang and ford specific magazines here..
here is a trip to a bunch of different mustang II articles spread out through the various magazines..http://www.carcraft.com/sch/02/mustang-ii/articles/?searchSource=SourceInterlinkMediahave some fun.. change the search term.. and try again..
sweet I really appreciate all you have told me. I have a few more questions I actually would like to ask on the condition of my stang. first: when i look down the oil filler hole I saw a bunch of like tar gum *** obviously its from the dried up oil but should i do anything to it? or will it just come off? second: inside the radiator filler cap down in there, there is a bunch of white snowman looking stuff? i touched it and it felt like gel. third: i took the radiator return hose off(i call it the return hose, there might be an actual name but I'm sure you'll understand haha)inside there was like flakes of rust. like major rust! yes yes I know antifreeze is corrosive, but my point is, is the block still good? it's probably major rusted out(?) that's my guess.
have you gotten the engine to CRANK with the key or a remote starter button yet.??? if so.. then you can change the oil and filter...warning.. do not install the filter until the last thing... put engine oil in.. use remote starter with ignition coil wire disconnected... crank engine until you get oil flow out the filter mount.. wipe a tiny amount of clean oil on the filter gasket and install filter.. hand tight.. NOT cranked down to make sure it will never ever leak.. if you do crank it down tight. you will learn why you don't when you go to take the filter off the next time.. it won't come off.. the reason to crank it with the filter off it to allow the oil pump to prime properly.. this does not need to be done usually.. just on new motors or on a few that can loose their prime.. overhead cam 1.8 pontiacs from the early to mid 90s needed this done a lot on oil changes.. the thin oil they used would drain out of the worn crank driven pump and it would dry start and the oil light would not go out..you can crank it with oil in and filter on until you get the oil light out.. ~~~~~~~white jell is dried coolant...rust flakes in a cooling system that has set 20 years is kinda expected..the only thing that is probably rusted out is the freeze plugs.. you can handle that.. use some 10W40 oil... just cheep stuff for now.. as you will want to change it just after you get it running again.. .you will also want to DISCONNECT and block the fuel hose from the body to the fuel pump... you don't want 20 year old fuel being pushed thru the fuel pump and carb.. once you get the engine to crank when you turn the key.. does your carb look like this???there are a pair of VENT tubes just in front of the choke blade.. on either side.. you can WITH CARE... pour no more than 1/4 cup of fuel into one of those holes... this will give you enough to crank the engine and get it to start for a few seconds..if your carb looks like this one above... post that info.. there are several great articles on rebuilding that motorcraft 2100 or 2150 carb... these are really EASY carbs to rebuild... and i have even more info on them...usually after sitting for as long as it has.. it will need a carb kit installed .. or it will leak all over the place...there might be a metal tag under one of the cover hold down screws.. thats an important ID for the carb to get the proper kit..
i have additional and there are several more articles spread around...http://www.mustangmonthly.com/howto/mump_1201_autolite_carburetor_rebuild/so.. when if you get around to a carb rebuild... ask ... as there are some things to make it easier...
like I said i got the motor to turn a little. i grabbed the AC pully and muscled it around like a quarter turn. then i also did the alternator thing. so it did crank like maybe from TDC to BDC and that's about all human power can do haha. so i should put battery in, change the oil, disconnect the plugs, crank the engine, stop, oil filter then put it on? right now the battery is as dead as toast. the carb looks exactly like that.
also Wayne does this mustang sound like it is going to work again? is it a good beginner restoration project? do you think it needs more than what i think it does? how does my situation look where your standing?
yes... it will live..its going to make you a better mechanic... as it has all the parts that are the basis for all future models..first step... get it to crank.. nothing is impossible.. it just costs a little more.. with the V6.. you have a car that will also get great fuel economy.. and still skoot along nicely.. don't give up the ship before you have started.. eventually.. you might want to swap in a V8... the only issue is the MII requires a reduced size bell housing and torque converter to clear the transmission hump.. and i think a special oil pan and pickup.. look under the rear end of your MII... you already have an 8" ford rear end.. there should be a C4 transmission behind the 2.8... so thats easy to fix..because of limited space for the battery.. that car takes a 26R size battery.. please don't leave off the heat shield between the side of the battery and the exhaust.. does it have a sun roof?? some did.. there were cobra V8 models with air dams up front.. and spoilers on the back.. that will bolt on yours... unless you have a notchback.. you did not say fast back or notch back.. but either is cool..
pheww ok haha. I though I would ask because people all over (grandpa, mom, sister etc.) are always telling me it's toast. but I like the way it looks and the thought behind it. I also really like the though if it being out of the garage and giving me and my band more practice space. I think i will keep the V6 for now. but who knows, maybe later down the road 10 years from now? i will. or when i get a good paying job...8" rear end? you mean the axle? or the diff ring? im not educated about that much...i take it 8" is good though right? lol. No sun roof. that would be awesome haha. it's the GHIA model so i dont know if what you are talking about will work hah DARN! sounded cool though...
You keep it going and the rewards are plentyfull.As time goes by you can always step up and install a BBF FE block 390 and up. Then modify the suspension, and driveline to handle to horse power and torque. Then put some Mickey Thompson 10" sticky's on the back and have a ball with it.I'm an old Gear Head, and old Gear Heads like to o fast...LOL...Bob
you got it. I will start working on it hopefully this weekend prepping it and whatnot and getting supplies ready, and hopefully before long i can get my A** movin down the road and visit my GF haha. hey babe
tubabubba26If you are going to be doing work or your new find. Get a MustangII service manual. These guys have books for about any level your of your expertise. I have used their books for many years, I would not recommend them if I hadn't used them myself. their web-site www.caretechbooks.com "Good Luck and Have Fun"Bob