i have 1999 Dodge Stratus V6 and my brakes won't release. scan tool said "31 cab power feed circuit". i wounder where is this circuit. i have replaced master cylinder , ABS pump.. but it wont go away..
perhaps... can you post the complete trouble code...check under the hood.. the big 40 amp fuse... #13... its for the Controller Antilock Brakes.fuse 13 is the CAB feed circuit.. but also checkcheck under the hood.. the 20 amp fuse in #4.. that also feeds the anti locks also...check under the hood.. a 20 amp fuse in #2...check the 10 amp fuses under the hood in positions #9 and #10...the controller is grounded at the big ground location on the passenger side strut tower where the negative battery cable is attached.. if somebody has had that apart.. make sure they reinstalled all the wiring that is supposed to live there... you might want to carefully.. remove the 15MM headed tall nut and wire brush both sides of the ring terminals there.. try not to loose the spacer that is there also.. i have found several over the years.. where the spacer got lost.. and the wires just dangled.. as the nut could not pinch down tight on them..so the listfuse 2, 4, 9, 10, 13 are for the anti lock or brake systems..
i had check all of the fuses inside and under the hood. non is blown but should i check them with voltmeter? negative is on driver side but was not taken apart for long time I'll take it off and wire brush them... .
yes.. either test the fuses with a volt meter or a test light....some will have power all the time... some have power only with the key on... the ground connection i wanted you to check is NOT at the battery its self.. its at the far end of the battery cables where the ground cable attaches to the body...i am looking at what is probably a slightly newer service manual than your car... there is a LOT of trouble shooting and charts needed to go step by step to verify things..you will either need a factory service manual for your year... or take a subscription to one of the online info providers... i usually point people toward eautorepair.net but there is also alldatadiy.com autozone owns that service.. so you can walk into autozone and buy a subscription kit... both can be purchased online with a CC..
well the very reason for me and other people being here. this and others forums is to avoid spending money for some thing i can most definitely get for free, which is info... but thanks for trying to help any way... i had cleaned all 4 ground points. Checked all fuses for voltage. all checked out by the way.
master cylinders... 35 to 80 bucks..antilock control modulator assemblies.. new around 900 bucks..access to the eautorepair.net site... 12 bucks for a week... 18 for a month... 25 for a year..access to the alldatadiy site... around 15 bucks... as i recall. time lost.... look at your wrist watch.. i am not trying to sell you anything.. but this has gotten to the same point that many people END UP AT..i replaced the engine... and the car still won't start.. i actually got that call one day... 85 impala... died... would not restart.. cranked just fine.. replaced the motor with a FACTORY long block.. moved all the parts to the new engine... still won't start... took me about 10 minutes to figure out .. the ignition Rotor was burned through.. a 5 buck part..look in section 8W for the wiring diagram for the antilock brakes..look in the section 5 the last 13 pages cover the antilock system.. following the diagnostic tree is a LOT quicker than replacing EXPENSIVE parts.. unless you are making commission on the parts sales.. thank you for visiting ..
i really did not mean hurting your feelings.. i did what would any mechanic would do. i followed trouble shooting by what's more likely failed and taking in consideration other list witch is what would cost less to replace while following first list. yes i missed the grounding problem. and i think it actually helped... my neighbor have all the tools or manuals needed. but i could not figure out why it is still doing what it were doing.. unfortunately i'm like that guy with distributor.. i missed some thing simple as good as good ground... they don't make new CAB modulators any more so i use used one it cost me 50$... i replaced Master cylinder cause it was most coming thing to cause brakes failure. Time? well it's not like it was wasted on going out to the bar or some sort... but hey thank you for help...
you did not hurt my feelings...you just did not give me enough info to really help you ... like the COMPLETE trouble code..the manuals are several thousand pages long.. i don't feel like flipping through them when i can put a code in and find it instantly... you could have had somebody replace the brake pads and not open the bleeder screw when they used the C clamp to retract the caliper piston.. so that contaminated fluid is not pushed from the caliper back through the antilock control valve assembly.. kinda on the scale of bleeding the brakes.. and pouring the used fluid back into the master cylinder... no body in their right mind would do that.. but with antilocks there are TINY opening that can get clogged.. and brake fluid gets really really hot in the calipers... sometimes picking up some corrosion. or varnish... just want you want in your expensive system..i have also had people check fuses by pulling them... when they should be using a test light to prove that there is power on both test openings on the top of the fuse. but also... in the socket to verify its getting through.. i have had to adjust the terminals in the fuse box many times.. ford actually has a TOOL.. kinda like a fish scale.. to test how hard the fuses are to pull out.. tests the grip of the terminals... no grip... less power passed... but guess what.. some fuses are Slightly thinner than others.. all i did was post the info to check the power to the abs circuit... there is a LOT of places to go in the manual...