I just replaced all my brake system on my 70 chevelle bench bled the master cylinder. Had trouble getting the rears to bleed, got them bled now cant get the fronts to bleed. any help would be appreciated.
brake bleeding... this usually takes 2 people.... the master... came with little hoses and threaded plugs where the hose can attach.. remove the lines from the side of the master.. thread the plastic plugs back in. install the clear hoses .. loop them back into the almost full master... have somebody slowly work the pedal.. until you are clear of air bubbles.. if you don't have the plastic adaptors and clear lines... remove lines.. place your thumbs over the openings hard... have somebody pump the brake pedal.. the brake fluid will squirt past your thumbs.. as the pedal goes down.. when it comes up... hold in TIGHT.. so no air can leak back in... once you get both sides spraying in this fashion.. with the pedal up.. hook both lines up..use two line wrenches... tighten LIGHTLY both fittings.. have the person behind the wheel push the pedal to the floor and hold it.. loosen both lines then tighten them.. have him let the pedal up.... count to 5 .. have them push the pedal down again.. hold.. loosen the lines again.. then tighten them... let the pedal up... once you get both squirting equal amounts of brake fluid... you can move to the wheels..at the wheels... i normally ... something slightly different.. i loosen ONE bleeder screw just slightly... i reach in and bump the brake pedal with my hand.. rapidly.. but only about an inch.. this rapid bumping of the pedal builds pressure in front of the master cylinder seals.. but does not cover the fill ports into the top... so no suction is created when the pedal is allowed up..this is enough usually to force some fluid through the lines....you do have to keep an eye on the fluid level in the master... i can usually bleed brakes by myself this way... and in many cars it works...some various cars with disc front drum rears have a button that needs to be depressed on the proportioning valve end to allow fluid flow through to the rear brakes...also... i always keep gallons of warm slightly soapy water around.. to wash any brake fluid off..
Thanks I will try that
Coming to another forum won't get you the help you need any faster..Is the brake light on in the dash.If it is you should try to recenter the proportioning valve. You can do this if you are familiar with the barke system.You will need a helper, the 2 ports on the master cylinder can be bled to set the proportioning valve. Make sure the M.C. is full, the key in the run position, and with your helper pushing lightly on the brake pedal, you can crack one of the the connectors, and see if the light goes out. If it does not go out go to the next connector and crack that slowly. If it does not put the light out, try this at least 3 times. If its quiet you can sometime hear the valve when it centers. It will make a clicking sound only once. Refer to the other forum for more info.
Got it taken care of, I started at the master cylinder lines and just bled the lines, I cracked them and pushed on the pedal everytime when I opened a line and they came out great, then I had my 5 yr old help me do a final bleeding to make sure no air.
That's it you have to start them young. They grow up too fast. Then there gone which is OKAY too. I'll bet he's telling all his friends today... Thanks for letting us know how you made out. So many times more then not we never hear from anyone with a problem. Did we help them or not?Thanks again.Bob
Yeah she has fun helping dad, She wasnt to thrilled that night except she got ditched by sissy and she didnt have anything else to doThanks again, always know where to turn if any questions