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help picking sbc heads
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moptop
New User
| Posts: 29
| Joined: 07/07
Posted: 10/23/11 10:20 AM
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I got a 283, 40 over and cast pistons. I will be installing a 500 cfm carb, eldbrock performer intake and cam (dur 278/288, lift .420-.442, lobe 112) shorty headers and 1.5 rollers.
I'm not sure what kind of heads to get (the originals will cost to much to repair)? I dont want the vortect and I neededs to be under 10:1 compression. No set hp 200-400, I dont really care. For some reason I am scared to stripping out aluminum heads, even with a torque stick, so I want cast iron.
I'm not to sure but as long as its with in these spec's its good? 160-190 intake runner 70-90 exhaust 2.1/1.6 valves 72 or 76 cc straight plugs and screw in studs
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tuffnuff
Moderator
| Posts: 1327
| Joined: 12/09
Posted: 10/23/11 11:30 AM
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It's too bad that you don't like the 64cc Vortec heads.,. your 283 originally came with 60cc heads and now you're looking at heads with a chamber that is 20% "too large" for the little engine. Forget 10 to 1 compression, you'll be lucky to get 8 to 1 with your intended combo. Sorry to be blunt, but you're plans will build a sluggish engine. 305 heads might be something for you to consider, they came with small chambers and have hardened valve seats.
When The Flag Drops,,,

The Bull Chit Stops,,,
P. Engineer, Engine Builder
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skyeking
User
| Posts: 243
| Joined: 11/09
Posted: 10/23/11 04:46 PM
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Hi there, I would try two 305s with 1.84" inlets with 58cc chambers which was max. even with a low deck height of 25/1000" you should get at least 8.8 // 1 comp. These heads will respond well to a bowl clean up and serious throat work. Headers need only be 1./1/2" with 2/1/4" pipes..Anything of the valve sizes you want is a step backward BECAUSE The bore is far TOO narrow. Even 2" will not be worth spit. Been there, Dun that!! Full stop. End of Section.
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moptop
New User
| Posts: 29
| Joined: 07/07
Posted: 10/24/11 10:41 AM
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Good thing I didnt buy anything yet. To be honest, I know how to put an engine together but dont know build it to specs(the math part) I'm not sticking with those numbers, I was more of guessing they were good. The only things I plan on getting are shorty headers (car is bagged and worried about clearance) and a edelbrock carb
The only reason I dont want the vortect heads is because I wanted to put the original style intake on, with the front oil filler tube. The car is not going to be original so its more of a want than need.
I used summit's compression ration thing and with a 64cc if gave me 9.2;1 bore 3.915 (3.875, 40 over) stroke 3 gasket 0.041 flat pistons w/ valve reliefs Total Displacement 288.91
76 puts right out at 8;1 72 would be 8.4;1
Anyways, 305 or Vortec heads would be the better picks.
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tuffnuff
Moderator
| Posts: 1327
| Joined: 12/09
Posted: 10/24/11 10:20 PM
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Here are casting #'s for 305 heads.
1006520, 305, 82-86, 1.84/1.50, 58cc 1015955, 305, 87-94, 1.84/1.50, 58cc 10159553, 305, 87-94, 1.84/1.50, 58cc 10239906, 305/350, 96-up, 1.94/1.50, 68cc Vortec 12509859, 305, 87-94, 1.84/1.50, 58cc 12552520, 305, 97-99, 1.84/1.5, Vortec Truck L-35 12558059, 305, 97, 1.84/1.5, L-35 Vortec truck 12558062, 305/350, 96-up, 1.94/1.50, 68cc Vortec 14010201, 305, 82-85, 1.84/1.50, 58cc 14019926, 305, 80-86, 1.84/1.50 14020516, 305/350, 80-86, 1.84/1.50 14022301, 305, 80-86, 1.84/1.50, 58cc 14022601, 267/305, 79-86, 1.72/1.50 1.84/1.50, 58cc
When The Flag Drops,,,

The Bull Chit Stops,,,
P. Engineer, Engine Builder
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skyeking
User
| Posts: 243
| Joined: 11/09
Posted: 10/25/11 04:43 PM
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Hi Peter!! Because the 305 has a narrower bore than the 283 and IF IF the young bloke can afford the Trick flow heads that were especially made for the 305 motor These heads have 1.94" inlets and that is all you need for a 283 non racer..These heads flow very well and are as good as necessary for some very good all round torque and economy without loss of power.. Hope to hear of a successful ending to this project. All the best to all the people...
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tuffnuff
Moderator
| Posts: 1327
| Joined: 12/09
Posted: 10/25/11 10:16 PM
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Hi Noel, the block can be scalloped to clear 1.94" intakes.,. I do it all the time on BB's that get fitted with big intake valves.

The head chambers will also need attention, to unshroud big valves.
When The Flag Drops,,,

The Bull Chit Stops,,,
P. Engineer, Engine Builder
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Posted: 10/26/11 09:26 AM
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14014416...80-86...305..........1.84"/1.5" valves, 58cc chambers
If going with 305 heads the 416 and the 601 305 heads would be best I have used both castings and they work decent.
Professional hi-performance engine builder Horsepower sells Engines and torque wins races.
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Posted: 10/26/11 09:28 AM
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+1 tuff on scalloping (cutting a relief) in the top of the cylinders.
Professional hi-performance engine builder Horsepower sells Engines and torque wins races.
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moptop
New User
| Posts: 29
| Joined: 07/07
Posted: 10/26/11 11:08 AM
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I could afford to get the trick flow heads or I could get the car running with that extra money. I was looking at a set of them, but I didnt want to put that much money into one part since its a stockish rebuild. That and I have no interior unless your counting a new steering wheel and sheet metal.
So as long as I dont install a 2" plus size valve, in the 305 heads, I wouldn't have to notch the block? or is that an alternative for clearance issues? I'm guessing you used a head gasket off a bigger small block, 350 or 400, to make that work. I got 0.180 bigger bore, over the 305, so unless the valve placement was moved in different heads I'm good. I'll get some play doh and double check.
Thanks for all the help/info. I can't wait till this thing is running again, I've been restoring this thing since the end of 2007!
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skyeking
User
| Posts: 243
| Joined: 11/09
Posted: 10/26/11 04:13 PM
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Hi there, Those trick flow heads will even run a 327/350 with a medium amount of torque and economy. Hey Tuffy I thought that all those shonky tricks went west with the 409s G'day Poncho man PS.I DO NOT go along with the Tricks.."NO WAY Hose" The straight deal is the more efficient I believe and Gentlemen is my Full Dollars worth!!!
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tuffnuff
Moderator
| Posts: 1327
| Joined: 12/09
Posted: 10/27/11 07:03 AM
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You will need to do a bit of grinding on the chamber to clear the 1.94" valves. This is easy to do and a machine shop can do it for little cost, in fact they do this all the time.
When The Flag Drops,,,

The Bull Chit Stops,,,
P. Engineer, Engine Builder
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skyeking
User
| Posts: 243
| Joined: 11/09
Posted: 10/27/11 10:23 PM
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Hi there Bill posters, Best check with T F S about the heads.. I do not believe that their heads require any work on the top of the block because of the re-design of the valve placement. IF?IF, there is one ounce of uncertanty then go to the 1.84 valves and clean up the thoats and bowls..MY 1.84" heads were really well cleaned and CC'd to 59cc and with 10/1 comp..a std performer in/man and a 600 Holley D/p on 10/38 timing it went well in my 4222lb jag on 3.31 final drive. My idea of gringing anything off a 305 is something for a sonic tester..The blocks are the thinnest castings of the lot. The jets in my Holley were 70/70...
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Posted: 10/30/11 12:16 PM
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+1 tuff
Professional hi-performance engine builder Horsepower sells Engines and torque wins races.
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tuffnuff
Moderator
| Posts: 1327
| Joined: 12/09
Posted: 10/30/11 02:19 PM
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skyeking:
Hi there, Those trick flow heads will even run a 327/350 with a medium amount of torque and economy. Hey Tuffy I thought that all those shonky tricks went west with the 409s G'day Poncho man PS.I DO NOT go along with the Tricks.."NO WAY Hose" The straight deal is the more efficient I believe and Gentlemen is my Full Dollars worth!!! 
No trick involved at all.,. simply a matter of matching chamber/valve/flow. Simple enuff.
When The Flag Drops,,,

The Bull Chit Stops,,,
P. Engineer, Engine Builder
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