96 sebring won't shut off

Hi,
I have a 96 sebring convertable, 2.5L 6cyl.Bought it used (way used) I had charging problems and had the alternator rebuilt. After reinstalling it, I had overheating problems. Replaced thermostate and radiator cap, also noticed the fan wasn't working, fixed that. replaced and repaired many vacuume hoses, minor tune up, changed timing belt etc... now it's deiseling. Of course it's throwing like 10 codes and all of them pertain to pcm not recognising...battery disconnect, random misfire etc... clear codes and start over. Any Ideas??? please?? can the idle speed be reset by hand or is that yet another electronic dodad that just needs replacing??
Thank you,
Dawn  

i think i would double check the timing belt. make sure it is in time,if it moved the cam and crank sensors are out of sync. it will run bad and the computer can do stupid things  

Good thought. I'll do that in the a.m. since I have no garage and it's dark out now. I also just cleaned out the intake and checked the IAC. seems to be working within range.
Thanks,
Dawn  

+1

not to mention the condition of the valves being put into jeopardy if the crank and cam is out of sync

when replacing the timing belt ALWAYS...ALWAYS turn the motor over by hand (wrench) at least two crank revolutions before reassembling the front of the motor...even more important if it's a dual cam engine  
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the red-headed step-child of the mailing list

fuzzy dice, air shocks & N50's rule

if its running on after you turn off the key.. its getting fuel from somewhere...   shorted injector wiring??   bad diode in the alternator putting out AC voltage through the system...   bad fuel pressure regulator leaking fuel into the intake ...

i would triple check the vacuum hoses...   make sure that the purge control hose is not flowing fuel vapors into the motor when you shut it off...        


i would also do a voltage drop test...  check for bad grounds between the motor and the battery .. and the body and the battery.. then the motor to the body..

set digital volt meter to 20 volts scale...    

one probe on the negative battery post...  the other on the engine with the engine running.. less than 0.02 volts.. is good..

one probe on the negative battery terminal...   the other on the body .. head lights on.. engine running.. less than 0.02 volts..

one probe on the engine.. the other probe on the body...    engine running , head lights on..   less than 0.02 volts...

if you get any reading that are higher...  post them...   remember... everything has to have both sides hooked up to work properly.. a voltage drop test on the ground side takes less than a minute to all three. and should be the first thing you do on a computerized car... ..

does your engine have individual coils.. or a distributer with a build in coil/?????   the smaller body styles with a distributer have had problems with the coil in the distributer not being able to put out enough voltage to properly fire the spark plugs...   it will pass a bulb type spark test.. but fail a gap style test...  it should throw a 3/4" spark...  bright blue.. not whimpee and orange..


i agree about turning a motor by hand..  

Dude, unload that thing as quickly as you can, for whatever you can get!  

+1

otherwise you have enrolled yourself into the school of hard knocks...automotive education the hard way  
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the red-headed step-child of the mailing list

fuzzy dice, air shocks & N50's rule

Just to clarify, The timing belt was replaced months ago. The alternator just last week. Thats when all the problems started. Car off voltage on batt is 12.3V car on voltage reads 14.3V all accessories on voltage reads 14.1V all within acceptable limits according to the Haynes shop book. I also found, today, that the EGR vacuume hose was clamped into the valve cover. Now I think maybe the car was running too rich and I got carbon deposits trying to burn off. ?? but I will try any and everything suggested.
Thanks again.
Dawn