What Engine To Build - 327, vortec 350 or 400

Hi,

I am looking for some advice on what motor to build.  I have a 67 camaro that came with a 250-6 and powerglide that I took out along with the 10 bolt and put in a 1965 Corvette 327 with 2.02 camel back heads, 4-speed and a moser engineering 12-bolt posi.  

The engine is all original except I put a crane cam in it, edelbrock performer rpm intake, hei ignition, headers and 2.5 inch flowmaster exhaust.  The engine runs great and the car moves pretty well but it is now starting to smoke (very badly) and it needs to be rebuilt.  Its still has over 180 psi of compression in each cylinder but at idle smokes a lot.  

So now do I rebuild the 327 with the factory camel back heads or do I buy a friends 1997 350 with vortec heads and rebuild that or do I buy another friends 400 small block and put aftermarket heads on it.  I am on a budget but would like some more power.  Both the 350 and the 400 can be purchased for 300 bucks but both need to be rebuilt.  

I am looking for any suggestions you might have.

Thanks,

Bonk  

I would stick with the 327 and the camel hump heads why spend $300 on other engines that need to be rebuilt when you already have one. Smoke at idle that sounds like the heads need new guides.  
Professional hi-performance engine builder

Horsepower sells Engines and torque wins races.

i agree with pontiacman. it just sounds like you just need a head job. and i would keep the 327. they are cool and not that common anymore.  

THE 327 AND CAMEL HUMP HEADS ARE GOOD,MY THOUGHTS,NO SUBSTITUTE FOR CUBIC INCHES. THE VORTEC HEADS WILL BREATH BETTER THEN THE CAMEL HUMPS,BESIDE THE BLOCK IS SET UP FOR ROLLER CAM,LESS FRICTION,EQUALS MORE POWER. THE HEADS NEED SOME MACHINE SHOP WORK BUT IT IS WELL WORTH IT. DO MORE READING AND RESEARCH BEFORE SINKING MONEY ANY MOTOR.
 GOOD LUCK AND HAVE FUN WITH IT.  

Thanks for everyones advice.  I talked to a couple of machine builders and they had different opinions as well.  Ohe thought I should do the 400 as it will give more in your seat performance (torque). He wanted 1400 to do the shortblock and then recommended AFR heads.  The other recommended the 327 becuase the 400's were famous for overheating.  I have heard that before but is there truth to that or an old engine builders tale?

I am leaning towards the 327 as it is different than most people are doing. The machine builder recommended putting arp bolts in the rods, balancing and said it should hit 350hp.  

yes the 400 have over heating problems.The H.P. depends on what goes in to the engine ARP rod bolts is always a good idea. How much power are you wanting if you would like I could recomend a combo for the 327.  
Professional hi-performance engine builder

Horsepower sells Engines and torque wins races.

Hey Pontiacman, thanks for help.  I am looking around the 350hp mark.  Both the engine builders say that is possible.  I currently have a comp cams 268h which seems to work pretty well but I would like to go more aggressive with it to get a rougher idle.  I have 3.73 rear gears and a manual transmission and manual brakes so I can handle more cam.  

I currently have a Edelbrock RPM Q-jet intake with a holley 750 vacuum secondary carb.  The rebuilt the carb, milled off the choke and put a adjustable secondary in it.  It has the weakest spring in it right now and runs well.  The engine builder said that the intake is a little much for that engine.  I do have an old edelbrock c4b intake that would look pretty cool as its kind of vintage.  I could then use a oil fill tube on it as well.  

Any suggestions on cam, intake, compression ratio, etc. would be much appreciated.  

I was in the same situation back in Jan. and decided to go with the 1 piece rear seal,roller cam vortec head route. I had a machine shop prep me a .030 over vortec short block and do a performance valve job on the heads. I bought the comp valve guide boss cutter and prepped the heads for a .510 lift comp XR 270 HR roller cam. I also did some light bowl work on the heads and used the stock valves. With a 2000 rpm converter my 81 vette is now running 112mph low 13's @ 2000ft ASL and is very responsive for a cam of this duration at only 9:1 cr.Previously for 3 seasons I was running a 406CI SBC with bowl ported 2.02 camel humps,XE 274,RPM airgap and was running high 13's until I blew a head gasket and washed down and scored #7and#5 cylinders. The leaky rear seal prompted me to try the new style block and the bonus was the cheap roller cam configuration. I am certainly glad I went this route since the whole deal only cost me 2000 and I sold my 400 to a truck guy for 1000 including the intake.
Good luck and have fun with whatever you decide..

Rob     (sorry, it was a 276HR,the 270 was not in stock but I dont regret going with the 276!)  

I would stick with the edelbrock rpm intake, and use a lunati P#07101LK cam & lifters witch has a .477 lift and flat top pistons when rebuilt. you may also want to have a 3-angle valve job done on the heads as well.  
Professional hi-performance engine builder

Horsepower sells Engines and torque wins races.

why not buy your friends vortec heads and put those on your 327. They blow those camel hump heads away  

the best value would be to go with the 400 sbc and the vortechs...trust me (19yrs in biz)...it'll put a smile on your face.when done right,there is NO reason it can,t hit 400horse.

400 overheating probs (when there is one) is very easy to fix...plumb dash 6 line from middle intake to water neck with a canton/moroso or eddy alum water neck.100-125 bucks and you are done.

E me if you want a proven,inexpensive combo with off the shelf parts you can purchase at your local speed shop.


alan  

rob str8...thats a great combo..hyd roller to boot!  

Did you get the hardened valve seats put in your camel backs? maybe a dumb question, but i just got a valve job on my camel backs and the rubber valve seats hadnt been replaced with the new hardened ones yet. until you get that done you have to run a lead additive or your rubber valve seats will be shot before you know it, and you'll be puffn smoke.  

Im not a fan of vortechs but when I built the 327 in my car I was on a buget but with 11.5:1 comp race pored 2.02 camlebacks and 586 lift solid roller with a 770 holley and cd ignition it goes good for a 327 these are being built to well over 500 hp but I am planning a lsx with fuel injection and twin turbos now  

I would add "Slick 50" or Lucas to the oil.  If it has been sitting for awhile, either of these will lubricate and stop the smoking possibly. It may help, depending on how bad a shape the inside is. I used it on a '61 Willys wagon, that hahad a 350 sbc in it.  It smoked especially when I started it up. The "Slick 50" clcleared it up after a couple tanks of fuel ran through it.  I also added it to my 327 before I started it up.

I have a Rick Santos built 1963 1/2 Corvette 327, that has been in storage for 22yrs. It has shaved camel heads, punched .030, Domed pistons, chrome Molly rings, 540 cam, Weiand Ram with twin 525 Demon Jrs., hipro mech fuel pump, and Mallory ignition.  Stock it put out 400hp, now it dynos out at 485hp. The old-timers tell me I need to add a lead additive and run racing fuel, and advance the timing to 16 degrees. I just got the rod completed this week and took it on a test drive.  Revving at a stand still it runs perfect, but when I punch it on the go, it shuts down.  I've been told, I have to much carb for the motor, but I also know that 327s are a little week on the bottom end, but will wind up off the chart.  I am checking for loss of vacumn, and going to block off my secondaries, and get that cleared up first. Any suggestions from you pros are appreciated.  This is my third 327.  They run cool temp. wise and are very durable.

Any suggestions from you pros are appreciated.