88-98 to 67?

Ok,  yes i know this is car craft forums,  not truck craft forums... but hoping someone here may be able to give me some advice.  I have a 1967 Chevy C-20,  currently building a 454 to take up some space in the overly large engine compartment.  I found a chassis for sale,  came from the 88-98 style trucks.  Mine is a long box,  this is a short box,  so i was just wanting to get it for the discs.  Does anybody know what the gear ratio is on these,  i think it would look a bit odd if i just robbed the front end...have 5 lug front wheels and 8's in the back.  I have 4.11:1 on now,  never attempted a gear swap,  would it be hard to convert my 4:11's if these are too far off what i have.  

OMG where to start...argh
i had a 67 c-20 for several years and did a few things that may help in your build...let's start with the rearend and gearing...what type (12bolt, 14bolt, timken) rear end do you have, 12-14 bolt will be easier to find gears for, my timken was tuff but the 4.11:1 without overdrive got old quick and parts where hard to find (lmc truck was a life saver at times)...the 88-98 rearend will be a 10-bolt on a five lug truck

and i guess you want to get rid of the front drum brakes (if you don't alternate braking legs, one will get much bigger than the other )

i managed to get ahold of an early 80's c-20 frame and the front end stuff was a direct swap (swapped everything, control arms, spindles, tie rods, drag link, springs)...i believe the frame design changed with the new body style and not sure if parts will interchange that well, you'll have to look VERY carefully at both frames to see what the differences are

the rearend is where this get hairy...do you have leaf or coil springs?  i found that c-20's had coils while same year c-30's had leafs...you could cut the axle perches off the original rearend and weld them on the replacement rearend...or you could try to locate a complete (housing, leaf springs, and frame mounts) 1-ton rearend setup to convert to...that would be some work to get into place but future rearend swaps would be much easier with a wider variety of units that would fit

and then there is the trailing arm problem...they get old...they rust from the middle out...they break REAL easy (don't ask)...replacements from lmc are about $400 each...or you can find a fabricator to build new boxed arms for maybe half that...depends on how well he likes you...then put lakewood stickers on them and see who notices  
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the red-headed step-child of the mailing list

fuzzy dice, air shocks & N50's rule

first things,  take me to "GM rear ends for dummies" class and give me some pointers on how to tell which rear end i have.  I know it has 4.11:1 and leaf springs.  Yes I would like to get rid of the discs,  i get funny looks everytime i wear shorts,  apparently nobodys ever seen a guy with one chicken leg and one body builder leg...go figure  Ya a co-worker with a 70 c-10 told me 82-87 almost fit like it were built for it.  My truck has leafs,  its the custom camper so i believe it was built a bit heavier,  has 3 gas tanks...one was taken out by the guy who bought it brand new for his boat,  but 2 are still left.   This frame i found is just something i came across,  guy wants $400 obo for it so i figured id try to talk him down and if i could get it for $200-250 id go for it,  but i can always hit up the scrap yards for mid 80's donor trucks.  

guess what...dummies can do research...count the bolts on the cover...lol...ill have to look this weekend,  im pulling it out of storage sunday to get to work on it  

at least you have leaf springs, everything else is easy from here

count the bolts holding the inspection cover on the rear of the axle housing...10 bolts...12 bolts...14 bolts, if it looks like a small beach ball between the axle tubes, it's a timken...get rid of it or find someone that is real familiar with it...i found the local off-road shop to be very helpful with mine (well, ultimately it's up to you..i never had any trouble out of my timken rearend but the parts were either ultra expensive or not available...it had full-floating axles and the bearings were $50-75 each, 4 required, drums were like $250 each, and those are common wear parts)

the 10 bolt was used non/lower performance cars (eventually the 10 bolt was put into light duty trucks in the early 80's), the 12 bolt had a performance car version and a truck version...the pinion shaft diameter is smaller on the truck version  although i can't imagine why, i'm not sure what year the 14 bolt rearend was released but it is the heavier (3/4 & 1-ton) truck rearend and gear sets are available for it

http://www.lmctruck.com/icatalog/cb/t.aspx?Page=148
this may help some with identification and availability of parts  
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the red-headed step-child of the mailing list

fuzzy dice, air shocks & N50's rule

looked at a pic online and i can tell you for sure it isnt a timken