Stroking a 307

A have a 307 that I want to stroke, I was thinking of putting a 350 crank in it with 5.565 400 rods and 307 pistons, but with this set up even with the blocked decked .005 the pistons set .06 inches down in the cylinder at TDC, and if I use 283 pistons with the 5.565 rods or 5.7 rods with the 307 pistons the pistons stick out of the block .08 inches.
Is there anything I can do to make this work without having to order custom pistons.  

Could I use the 283 pistons and just have the tops milled off .1 inchs or is this not possible.  

Or should I have the block decked like .02 to get it to 9.000 deck.  

I did some math and here is what I came up with. If I have the block decked .025 to get a 9.000 inch deck and use a 3.48 inch 350 crank, with 5.565 inch 400 rods, and 1.655 pin height 307 pistons, this gives me a deck clearance of .04 inch. I like the 307 that 72chevelle311 was talking about in his post, so I think I will use Dart heads with the 52cc chamber and 180cc runners, with about a .490 lift/230 duration cam, and a edelbrock performer RPM air-gap intake, and about a 600-650 holley carb and headers.

Even with the shord rods the rod/stroke ratio is still better than a 383 with 5.7 rods so I dont need to worry about that.

This combo gives me a 333CI small block with 11:1 compression and a quench of .055

Do you think that this will be a good running moter and last a long time and how much HP and TQ should this moter make.

On my desk top dyno it says it should make close to 400 horses but I want to know what you think.  

I would say it should make 360-375HP but with 11.1cr you will need some high octane gas if using iron heads to prevent detonation.  
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My freind has a 11.5:1 383 that he runs 91 pump gas with, but it has AFR heads. And my machinist said that with the small bore of the 307 and the thick cylinder walls will help detonation a little and that I just have to back off my timeing till it stops knocking then back it off just a little bit more to run high compression on low octane and then when I want to race put high octane in it and advance the timeing.

And my dad had a 12.5:1 compression 283 that he ran 91 octane in and he said he never had any problems with it knocking, and it had old stock cast iron heads on it that he had ported, but this was like 30 years ago.

And also do you think that this would be a good reliable moter because I need this to go at least 80,000 miles before I can build it again.  

Ya aluminum heads have higher detonation tolerances than iron and running pump gas with a 11:1CR with iron heads is looking for trouble.
Having thick cylinder walls has nothing to do with detonation.
Backing off the timing to stop audible detonation is a major band aid that people do and think there getting away with it but there not.
Backing down the timing will cause a major lose it power and doesn't that defeat the purpose of build a engine for power.
30 years ago we actually had  real gas this stuff were buying now is not real gas and is sub standard compared to the stuff they had 30 years ago.
IF built right and quality parts are used and maintained right than yes it should last a while.  
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You might want to stick with 91 octane or higher, just to be safe. I learned a hard lesson about high combustion temperatures from my 1992 Oldsmobile Achieva. I had a DOHC Quad 4, and swapped out injectors from my 1993 Grand Am, with a Quad OHC and 5 Speed manual trans. I didn't realize that the SOHC injectors were causing a "lean" condition. I got about 26000 miles out of the engine before I fried the #4 cylinder. If this car is going to be driven daily, I would reccomend a thick radiator, maybe a little lower compression too. This may not give you all the HP and Torque you want, but your combustion temps and pressure are going to be very high. You will want to keep this engine running cool. The thicker cylinder walls, might prevent the block from cracking, but your heads are going to be suspect, they are structurally weaker than the block. Go with Aluminum heads, if you want the full build. They dissapate heat faster, therefore are more thermally efficient. They will also save you around 60-70 lbs.  
Guzzling gas and hauling ass, the true American way.

If I dont have the block decked and i use a .015 thick gasket this will lower the compression to 10.5:1, but the quench will be .075 inch. Is the quench that important, I know that the quench is supposed to be between .035 and .06, but will a .075 inch quench be fine or is that too much.  

I would deck the block and make up the difference with the gasket.  
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Ok now I want to talk about the intake. I want to use the edelbrock Victor Jr. but in a test done in one of my car magazines the Victor Jr. makes about 10HP and 10TQ less than the performer RPM below 3500RPM then above 3500RPM the Victor starts making more power and TQ than the performer RPM. Now if I use a four hole spacer with the victor will this make up for the lost low end power and lower the RPM range of the intake. I want to use the Victor mainly because it looks cool, but I also want it to make good low end and mid range power.  

I would not recommend the victor intake if you want it to perform well the victor should only be used on larger cubic inch race engines like 383's or bigger.
I would recommend a edelbrock performer air gap or a edelbrock performer RPM air gap dual plane intake for your set up. I would also use a lunati voodoo cam like P#LUN-60102LK it is a dual pattern cam with a .468/.489 lift and will work better for your small cubic inch engine build than the single pattern cam.  
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Well I am talking about the Victor Jr. not the Super Victor. The Victor Jr. is 1 inch shorter than the Super Victor and the Victor Jr. has a smaller Plenum size made to run best out of the box on small cube engines such as a 302,305,307....
This is why on the edelbrock website it says that for best performance the intake has to be tuned with carb spacers. The carb spacers add volume to the plenum for larger engines. (There is a Plenum size to CI ratio but it is different for every intake and engine.) And if I use a 4 hole spacer I would think that it would lower the RPM range of the intake and not add much volume to the plenum, plus it should make more low end torque because it increases the velocity of the air coming into the intake.  

Also I might build a 383 some day so then I can use the intake off of this engine and put on the 383.  

Ya I know that you were talking about the vic. jr intake but like I posted before I would not recommend that intake if you want your 307 stroker to perform at its best.  
Professional hi-performance engine builder

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