Cheap 383

I just bought a 350 4-bolt main for $250 that still runs from a man that built my dad a 283 back in the 60s that ran a 5.40 1/8 mile in a chevelle and he told me how to build it. Now I have a 307 that have just rebuilt about 2 years ago so I will use as many parts as I can from the 307 to build my 383. Here is how I am going to build it. 350 block bored .03 over, decked .005, new rotating assembly from Eagle or Scat, to give it 10:1 compression, cast steel crank, forged rods, hypereutectic pistons, and the 350 has 350 horse dubble hump heads that I am having port and polished, edelbrock performer intake, HEI, long tube headers, comp cam 230 duration .480 lift, 1.6:1 ratio roller rockers, and a 750 or 800 holley carb all bolted to a powerglide trans with a 2500 stall and 3.73 gears, in a chevelle.

How much Horsepower and torque will this make and what would be the Max safe RPM with these parts.

The 307 is built this same way exept it has 7.8:1 compression and it runs 16.42 in the 1/4, what should the 383 I am building run in the same car.  

now your talkin`  400+ hp. you might want a looser converter with that set up but you can make it work. with the 1.6 rockers you will have .515 lift this gives a lumpy idle. this set up should put you into the 13`s.  then you will need sticky tires.  

The converter brake stalls to 2300 behind the weak 307 so it should brake stall to around 2600-2800 behind a 383. And with that cam, the performer intake(idle-5500), and my 2.25 inch flowmaster exaust and 1 5/8 long tube headers, and 10:1 CR, it should make a whole lot of low end torque which well help alot with the powerglide.
And are there any ways I could get it into the 12s without spending much more money.
And how much block clearancing will I have to do and where do I have to do it.  

alright...now he can talk TORQUE!!!


nice combo...

LOSE THE GLIDE (and the tow truck manifold)...and what happened to the dart heads ???  

Well I went to order the dart heads and when I was looking through the summit mag. I found that I could buy a eagle or scat 383 stroker kit that had everything (crank, rods, pistons, bearings, rings, balancer, flywheel) for less money than I could the iron eagle heads and I found a Hi-Po 350 out of a vette  that had 350 horse heads for $250, and my freind works at the machine shop and I can get the block bored, decked, and clearanced, and have the heads rebuilt for next to nothing, just I have help him do it after the shop closes, so I decided to build a 383 and get 400+ HP for the same money that it would cost to buy the iron eagle heads and only get 325 HP and no torque. I would not have done it if I had not found the 350 with those heads for that cheap.

And the glide stays.

And how much NOS could I safely use with hyper pistons and a 10:1CR  

i am running the same set up in a s-10 blazer. i used holley system-max II on the top  and 3.73`s with a locker 26 in drag slicks. a 700r4 transmission with a 2400 stall, that is way to low the 60 ft time suck, but the 100 shot of nos. help push the blazer to a best et 12.30`s, low 13`s with out nos. no ill effects on the motor. low end was put together used stage II rotating assembly, i have no problems shifting @62-6500 rpm`s, it wants more but i want it to last a while. open the ring gaps up so they do not seize up in the cylinder a brake pistons.  

...same your pennies and step up to a forged piston...get the deck ZERO decked so you dont give up any CR...

this is a much better build for your $$$$...good for you..those heads are pretty decent...get a bowl hog to open up below the valve throat..mill to get straight..pin or install screw in studs (7/16 if you can afford new rockers)

hyper pistons are a glorified dense casting with a shiny finish...thats it...and IMHO (21 yrs in the bizz) DO NOT belong in a Hi Perf motor...




al  

OK, Im about to start ordering parts so if you know of a part or a different set up that will make more power for the same money please tell. I am looking for most of the power in the 2500-6000RPM range, It will not rev over 6000 very often or at all.

Here is my set up.

10:1CR
.04-.05 quench area
2000-6000RPM cam(not for sure on what brand)
1.6:1 comp gold roller rockers
Have heads port and polished to flow around 272 on the intake
Edelbrock Torker 2 intake
Holley vacuum secondary(not for sure what size)
MSD HEI ignition
Headman 1 5/8 headers
Eagle Rotating assembly  

I would go with a lunati streetmaster .477lift cam and a weiand x-celerator intake manifold over the torker2.  
Professional hi-performance engine builder

Horsepower sells Engines and torque wins races.

OK. Now what size Carb will I need, and will this set up have enough torque to get my powerglide chevelle off the line, becuase it is really slow off the line with a 307. And what kind of horsepower will I see with this set up.  

I would go with a 750cfm holley carb.
This setup should make plenty of torque.
It is slow of the line with the 307 because it is not producing enough torque in the low range.  
Professional hi-performance engine builder

Horsepower sells Engines and torque wins races.

750 holley DP

airgap syle intake w/ 1 inch spacer

USE THIS CAM:

Comp Cams k12-250-3 or k12-678-4..more $$ but a solid lifter....others will work...but these work WELL...  

last combo i sold was for a budget build 355.....in an s10...

3.73 gear
3k converter

234/244 .488.510 hyd stick (25 year profile..but good ***
441 heads ..slight cleanup.
air gap plus spacer

12.87 IIRC....at 113mph...this is a street truck....he drives it practically everywhere....

now going to upgrade camshaft to this century..more stall and drop it in a mustang fox for next year grudge racing....

if you cant get into the 12s...you are def doing something wrong....
more exapmles:

buddies 69 camaro:

406...stock rods etc...old 462s..vic jr..850 ...252/258roller on 106...4200 stall...4.56
all steel car...runs 11.30s all day..consistant...

spend money on a good efficient converter...it will make or break a combo...


another example:

duster with 340...11to 1 forged..ported stock heads...750 demon...248/256roller on 108...4800 converter...5.13s...all steel no tricks..runs 6.80s in the 1/8...consistantly (for YEARS)...cheap ass combo..trick?...an 800 dollar converter...runs it on the steet everyonceinawhile...converter is tight...you,d think it was a 2500rpm piece...


i can go on and on about my customers combos over the years...all i can say is do it once and do it right...don't let psycological barriers of the 4 series gear or the <cant use more than 3k converter on the street,OMG!> stop ya..rollers and RPM are your best allies to getting a heavy azz street car down the track quick enuff to get you some wood, and make you happy about spending all that hard earned moola...if not, you will be disappointed  

i'm outta here!!  

TORQUE IS KING..BUT RPM MAKES THE WORLD GO ROUND!!!    

I was thinking something like a Lunati Voodoo cam 233/241 duration .504/.525 lift
or the Comp Thumper 235/249 duration .521/.507 lift.

The Lunati is rated for 2200-6400RPM, and the Thumper is rated for 2200-5900RPM

The new 2500RPM converter I bought was a BTE is this a good converter.

I was told to go with a Performer RPM intake, and instead of a 750DP I was thinking like a 800 Vacuum secondies.

I still want to run 91 pump gas, can I do it with this set up. I was told that if I have a lot of compression I just have to use a big cam to get the cylinder Psi down to run the 91 gas is this true and if so are these cams big enough.