BOOSTING MY SMALL BLOCK

I have a 383 chevy small block that I converted to fuel injection with a Howell harness, computer and chip. Its a tpi style injection with the throttle body off any mid 90's vertec 6.0Liter. All forged 4340 internals with and 8.5 to 1 compression ratio and dart pro1 aluminum 230cc heads. I have it running on 24lb injectors as of now for its break in but now im looking to finally boost it. My question is has anybody already gone through something similar and could you point me in the right direction to save me some headaches? Looking for a t3/t4 hybrid turbo, injectors "not sure what size or brand", and suggestons on ignition as well as manifolds for a single turbo?  

I'm looking to finally boost it  
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please contact me

Aaren@sycodas.am
Aaric@sycodas.co.ee
Blent@sycodas.gr
Baahir@sycodas.hu
Baal@sycodas.ru  

You are definately injector limited right now.  You need to have a ballpark idea of what HP you plan on making with the combo, then find an online calculator for injector sizing.  Variables you need are, ~HP, Fuel Pressure, and number of injectors.  Boosted engines tend to need larger injectors at the same HP level as N/A engines, so I'd use about 100Hp more than your target in the calc.  Ignition will depend on what computer system you are running and what it'll support.  
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The Silver Buick- '77 Skylark coupe w/455&TKO-600, '72 Centurion Conv't - 455w/TH400, '67 T-bird 4Dr (suicide) w/428&C6. Needing to replace a '69 Firebird 400.

http://www.bangshift.com/forum/index.php?topic=6189.0

Injector Flow Rate (lb/hr) = Engine HP(1) x BSFC(2)
Number of Injectors x Injector duty cycle(3)

(1) For a rough estimate, multiply your "all motor" power by the density ratio you expect (density ratio is "boost" (pressure ratio) less the inherent density loss from compression of the air -- about every turbo book known to man contains the math for calculating this).   Or you could go easy an use the "Richard Holdener" method of merely multiplying NA power by the by the pressure ratio, because you'll need a fudge factor anyway.

(2) Use .6 for BSFC to be safe.

(3) Don't exceed 80% duty cycle.

And remember that "too big" on injectors is a whole lot less expensive in the long run than "too small" ("too small" kills engines in seconds. Too big just won't idle very well)

The typical T3/T4 doesn't flow enough air for a single turbo 383.    Even a modest 383 at a low pressure ratio (e.g. 1.58 = 8 psi) should flow better than 60 lbs/min.

A decent but very rough rule of thumb is that you'll need ~10 lbs/min of air flow out of a turbo at your target manifold pressure for every 100 h.p.  Thus, if you're going to build an 800 h.p. engine, you should be looking at a turbo (or combination of turbos) flowing around 80 lbs/min.  

Most turbo retailers can supply you with compressor maps for what they're selling.  And compressor maps for popular turbos are often on the internet.

As for manifolding, I suggest not wasting a lot of money on it until you've got some turbo experience under your belt.  Plenty of turbo novices (and automakers) have made good power with factory iron exhaust manifolds or shorty headers.  Tube headers, unless made from stainless and/or coated with high temp coatings tend to crack, flake, leak and not last very long.

Iron manifolds wear . . . well like IRON!  They're excellent for a street car.

If you're going to weld up your own stuff and don't want to pop for stainless, weld-els are the alternative.  See how its done at http://sdsefi.com/techheader.htm

And I'd read through the "So were not rich but we arent stupid" thread to see some other tips and info sources.

Have fun!  
*****
TURBO TED --Internationally known as the "John Force of the Yugo Racing Association."

Sergeant-at-Arms and immediate Past President of the SoAL Yugo Owners Group.

Its a tpi style injection with the throttle    


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