352 vs 350 destroked 400, or standard 350 witch gets better milage

every expert says, a longer stroke and smaller bore are more efficient, in the low rpm's. but every dyno chart is nearly identical, if everything else is the same, just different bore/stroke. but same cubic inches.
gm's new motors are all small bore big stroke, but so far they don't get any better milage than the previouse years. i've had several 3rd gens f-body's that avg 26-32mpg. i even owned a mercury cougar that avged 28mpg.
no these cars were not carberated. but all factory. yes they all had v8's.
my current 91 camaro gets 24mpg cittie, 28-29 freeway.
how do i know.?  my daily commute is 3hrs long. 132miles. round trip. 45min freeway one way. 45 min cittie rush hr one way. 5 days a week.

lets see the experts prove it....
i laugh every time i see a advertisemment of 30mpg with a gutless 4 banger. as being good.

i'm looking for real world test #'s. FACTS...
anyone have any?
 
how about 302sbc vs 305sbc.?   3" stroke vs 3.48" stroke 4"bore both 5.7" rod.
327sbc vs 326sbc.?  3.25"stroke/4"bore 5.7"rod vs 3"stroke/4.125" bore 6.25"rod.

wouldn't it be great if people did an idle to redline dyno run. so we could actually see the trade offs with cams, and exct. in the usable range of 90%+ of where we run our motors.
alot of cams look better, and make more power across the whole rev range, if you don't actualy compare them where we drive our cars most.
why do they only start dyno pulls at 2500rpm+? passing powers great. and it's very helpful. but the full dyno curve would be even more helpful, especialy for a daily driver build.

HEY! CARCRAFT, ARE YOU LISTNING???
COULD YOU PLEASE, PLEASE, PLEASE HELP A LONER LIKE ME OUT.???

i can always add nitrouse and power boosters, (i love turbo's) but must be able to afford to drive it around. no trailor queen, no weekend only warrior. no extra parking space, if i can't drive it to work everyday it's nothing but a toy, and i can't afford any toys. besides. if you park it all the time, where's the enjoyment???

the long, and the short of it was good, but you changed too many variables, and you never really did a factory test.
your supercharged 306 was nice too. 500hp, and 26mpg.
i just found "the 350 chevy should have built" great stuff. that helped.

machinists keep trying to convince me to get a 383sbc. but then they say 40,000miles it will need a rebuild.    thats way too expensive, upkeep. i put almost 40,000miles on a year just driving to work. the 3-3.25" stroke and longer rods should help to minimise ring+bore wear, reduce friction, and improve detonation stability.
course a jes safe guard will help when i can get it. along with 8 egt kits,
and water/meth injection. (or second mpi cpu, and injectors, for proven reliability for use as water injection)

oh yeah. and i am worried about the siamesed bores being out off round when they get hot. is 350 block non siamesed that much better? is this truly a problem on these blocks?    

yes i posted this on hotrod too.    

You know, you can alleviate most of your worries by using a different brand engine, the 383 B series Dodge engine. Its got a short 383 cubic inches, short stroke, long rods, nice size bore for big valves and a ton of aftermarket parts availability. Plus it will fit in a F body if you want to make it work. Like you said, why waist money on a Chevy 383 when its going to wear out quickly? The Mopar 383 will last many miles longer.  

you could always prove the point with back to back tests of fords, and mopars too.
as long as it soly factual, with well detailed results and testing, circumstances.