I broke in my new rebuilt engine and think I forgot to change the oil after initial break in first 30 minutes or so. I actualy drove it for a little while maybe 2oo miles or so, some hwy. I am thinking that the lobes on the cam are flattened, so that will have to be changed out. Is there anything else that this can damage? piston rings etc? big oops on my part, but how bad  

Does it still run?  Change out the oil and measure the crank-case pressure if you can.  You can use a compression gauge with a basic rubber hose ending to do this by hooking it up to the dipstick tube.

Also, check your oil pressure.

If things aren't broken, I'd keep running it.  

What has lead you to believe that the lobes are flat?

If it indeed ruined the cam the entire engine will have to be dis-assembled, cleaned, possibly taking multiple steps to repair the damage, and re-assembled. The metal goes through the entire engine and can require polishing the crank again and using new bearings - the soft plugs, cam bearings, and galley plugs need to be removed to do a thorough cleaning.  

pull the valve covers and see if all the valves are opening the same amount...  

Checked around today and seems that engine builders in the area say not to change the oil until the initial break in which varies. One builder stated 1 month, another 200-300 miles. So I may be ok after all. My oil pressure looked good the last time I ran the engine, which should rule out bad main bearings, from what I understand. I am going to hook a dial indicator to the lifters to check the amount of lift I am getting. Evidently the oils we have now do not contain zdp so it is not uncommon for a cam to go to crap within the first 10 minutes of break in. I also have purchased a leak down checker so I can see what the cylenders can hold. Am I on the right track here?  

Sorry forgot to add that I am not sure that the lobes are flat, when I had it apart the last time there was a lot of wear on the end of the lobes. I also have a pretty distinct tick comming from the #1 cylinder. could also be a hanging lifter, bent push rod, flat lobe. Just not sure right now    

When you first started the break-in of the cam, did you have break-in additive in the oil? After the motor started, did you hold the RPM above 1500 RPM for 15 minutes?  

I actually started around 1500 rpm's and went up incrementally around 20 minutes or so total. I did not use cam break in lube, did not know of the stuff at the time and also did not know that oil properties changed ie zddp. If the cam is flattened, not sure if all steps outlined above are necessary ie taking motor apart and cleaning it thouroughly. Seems to me that one could replace cam and lifters change the oil 30w and add new cam break in lube  

Is number 1 at the front? Don't know exactly which engine you are referring to. However- since it's a fresh rebuild- check all the rocker/valves and readjust before assuming there is mechanical damage. Especially on a cylinder that likely receives oiling first and at the highest pressure if this engine has a front pick-up and oil pump.
Steve  

If the cam is flattened- where do you think the lobe material went? You would need to check everything. But first find out if the problem is adjustment or mechanical damage.
Steve  

Steve good point, The engine is a 1972 Plymouth 400 in my Satellite. I have no adjustments on the rockers, wish I did. If I remember right everything is on one bar, so when you remove the rockers they all come out together. What else should I look at, bad lifter, bent push rod? I have a dial indicator from a cam degree kit I have had for some time. Take reading off of cam lobe,lifter, rocker?  

There is no lash preload? Certainly there's a preset torque preload on the shaft rockers even with a hydraulic lifter arrangement.Only way you bent a pushrod is if the length was way off- as in rebuilding more than once and really planing off the deck height on block and heads. The dial read out on the rockers or without rockers might be better though seeing the relation between cylinders at the rocker might be useful. Could do it theoretically at the pushrod side. For fun pull the loud cylinder's pushrods and roll 'em on a perfectly flat surface.
I digress, check your TSM ( Technical Service Manual ) for rocker shaft bolt torque as well as any individual rocker arm spec if they use any fasteners other than some shaft spring location- though I am not familiar with the Mopar hydraulic set-up.
Steve  

Ok, did some reading to familiarize. Th only factor adjustment wise would be the shaft fasteners and that isn't really an adjustment. Double check anyway. The other factor regarding pushrods- though it'd affect more than one cylinder, is a high lift cam. Is everything stock?
Steve  

Everything is stock, with the exception of Keith Black pistons and swap out of a 2 barrel for a 4 barrel. I will check lift at the rockers. Right now still putting an Acura Integra back together. Hopefully get to it in the next couple of weeks, maybe sooner if I am lucky.  

Great. Also, the entire valve train excepting the shafts was new? New cam, new lifters, new rockers, new pushrods?