ok so i'm new to all this car restoration stuff. I bought my 70 javelin not knowing the history of it and whats been touched and not touched. So here is my question....my boyfriend and I removed the engine and tranny would you AMCers recommend and engine overhaul no matter what?  
I mean I wanna do this right to make sure everything works tip top. I just figure that this car is old it doesn't look to me like the previous owners touched the engine. So to be on the safe side just do it big and get an overhaul.  I found some kits on a couple websites and i'm looking at 800 to $1400 to do an engine overhaul.  Anyone let me know if its worth it like I said I want it done right.  Any suggestions?  

Was it running when you bought it?  If so did it smoke or make any strange ticking or knocking noises?

Unfortunately with it out of the car...it will be difficult to perform a compression test (which would have told you the shape of the rings and bore).

Since you have it out, what I would probably do (and this is by no means the only way of taking on this project) is drop the oil pan and inspect the bottom for metal shavings.  If you find chunks of metal or a ton of sludge...it would probably be best to overhaul it.  If that turns out clean, I'd then pull the cylinder heads and inspect the bores.  If there are major scratches or a noticeable ridge on the top of the cylinder...it probably needs an overhaul (note: this is rare...but if you see cross-hatch marks on the bore, that is a GREAT sign as it means the final hone put on it before assembly is still visible, suggesting very little wear).

I would think you'd want to replace all of the gaskets anyway...so tearing the motor down to the short block to inspect it shouldn't be too awful big of a deal.

Good luck!  

I have a 74 (360, 4sp, 3.54 gears) and it's underfunded, but here's what I do know...
1. AMC engines have a higher nickel content, so they have better wear characteristics than some other engines.
2. consider doing the oil system mod
3. there's AMC oriented websites out there, I go to http://www.amccars.net/ and click on forums on the top right, AMXperience is also another good site for tech stuff and how to build a strong running AMC engine for not a lot of ***
4. restoration parts are NOT plentiful, like they are for a 1969 Camaro.  Being a part of an amc messageboard and asking about where to get stuff is a good way to find parts sources.
5. Use well made, American parts whenever possible.  I prefer hastings rings with anything I worked on since I got my gf, but she lives right across the road from where they're made.  

Since you don't know what's going on with the motor, I'd suggest pulling hte oil pan and heads, and doing a thorough exam of the engine to see if they're any signs of trouble requiring a rebuild.

From there, I'd say go ahead and rebuild it if you can afford to, that way you have no questions or doubts when you put the car back together.  

Please provide more information. Did the car run when you got it? I'd check for the obvious now that the engine is out, like putting a big socket on the crankshaft bolt ( inside the front lower pulley ) and making sure the engine turns fairly easily by hand. I'd get the fuel lines blown out with compressed air, remove fuel tank and have it cleaned and coated, replace the fuel pick-up assembly, replace the fuel pump, take a sample of oil from the engine and send it out to have it analyzed for metal content, carbon, etc... If there were no obvious problems apparent, I'd put the engine and trans ( drain and replace the trans fluid, and the rest of the engine oil and coolant and replace with new. Replace plugs, wires, condenser, rotor, and cap. Note the size of the engine which is indicated in big two inch tall block numbers on the outside of the engine just above the two engine rubber and steel mounts. That way you'll know if this engine is the correct one for the car. The code for the engine is on the vin tag at the drivers side front of the dashboard visible through the windshield. Your Vin can read ( I'm assuming you have a V-8 - with a six the letters will be different and only a stamped code on the passenger )A0M797P123456, or A0M797X123456, A0C797 X or P, or N or H 123456. Don't worry about any number or letter other than the X, P, N,, M, or H in the seventh position. They mean 390 4bbl, 360 4 bbl, 360 2 bbl, 304 4 bbl, or 304 2bbl.
   If the engine passes all the visual tests and cursory test with the socket and ratchet to see if it turns over, no sludge or metal in the oil, no oil in the coolant ( too late if you drained all the coolant already )- I'd put the engine and trans back in and see if you can get the engine running. Then do a compression test. Maybe it needs a rebuild, maybe not.
Steve  

To the poster above stating that AMC engines have a higher nickel content. That isn't necessarily so. They have some element in the iron alloy that gives the bores a very high durability but apparently it isn't nickel. I say apparent because an original engineering paper specifying what iron alloy the engine should be spec'd out with showed only an average amount of nickel but a fairly high silicon content if I recall. The mix may have changed once engines were actually produced. Nickel is not the only alloying component that gives hardness to a bore or bearing surface. I do agree that AMC engines are highly resistant to ring ridge wear. It's a bit distressing to see oversize pistons in a Chevy convention sizing protocol-i.e.;.030, .060. There are .040 sizes in aftermarket ( don't recall about stock replacement )pistons but there should also be readily available .010 and .020 sizes to reflect the much lower clean-up boring dimension required for a regular rebuild. Many times a hone will do and should be encouraged to keep the engines in the realm of rebuildability. Of course- sleeving is an option in special cases. Sorry for the off topic detour.

Steve  

looking for clips to hold on roof stainless for 1967 AMC Marlin. Anybody>