I have a '65 Rambler Classic Wagon with the Borg Warner T35 or M35 or
Flash-o Matic 3 speed auto tranny.  I cannot keep this thing working right.  I have had it rebuilt twice in 30,000 miles and it still shifts funky and has apparently sprung a leak at the front seal now.  I am working with the guy who rebuilt it last but just wanted to know if anybody else is familiar with this transmission and has had problems, or if mine is just a lemon.  

Well I have heard many bad things concerning this trans. However, I just got my 69 rebelsst 290 running after 20 years and it has that tranny, and I have had zero problems. How reputable is the guy who rebuilt yours? I know they can be tricky or so Ive heard...by the way what exactly is shifting "funky' referring to? these trannies do not shift like the more familiar autos..especially the early 60's ones wich tend to take off in second.Hope my ramblings helped a little..  

The guy who rebuilt mine was recommended to me by my machine shop guy who also dabbles in building and racing drag cars.  Figured that was pretty good testimonial.  By shifting funky I mean that it was holding first gear too long under normal driving conditions (wouldn't shift to second until about 3000 rpm).  It would then shift into second very briefly before slipping immediately into third.  It never acted like that before.  It has the P-R-N-D2-D1-L pattern.  D2 is supposed to start in second with an auto upshift to third.  D1 is 1st, 2nd, and 3rd gear.  L is just first gear, no upshift.  After the rebuild D2 would start the car off in 3rd, totally skipping 2nd gear. It never did that before either.  He thought it had a later model valvebody in it and was looking for a different one.  In the meantime the tranny started leaking from the front seal or converter so I pulled it back out and took it to him, He's had it ever since, been about 4 weeks.  Not the easiest tranny to pull with the pain-in-the-neck torque tube assembly.  

Sounds like the throttle valve is stuck or not connected. The M-35 has a throttle valve cable. It IS NOT just a "kick down" cable!! It's a THROTTLE VALVE cable like a 700R4 has. The cable connects to a lever in the trans that controls internal pressure. The more throttle you give it the higher the pressure in the trans. When the cable bottoms out it kicks down to second gear provided road speed isn't to high. If the cable isn't working you have to much pressure at low speeds, causing hard shifting, or not enough at higher speeds, causing soft shifts and slipping under load.

These are AIR COOLED transmissions -- there are NO provisions for a liquid cooler. The torque converter has a metal fan made onto it (doesn't look like a fan, looks like a spaced second cover or shield). You MUST have the front bell housing cover in place whenever operating. If you don't, airflow is interrupted and you'll quickly overheat the trans. I know, seems like you would get MORE air in without that cover, but it renders the fan inopperable, apparently. Air comes in that big hole on the right side and exists the smaller holes spaces along the back of the bell over the trans body.

The cable pushes in as the throttle is opened. With the linkage in the idle position adjust the clevis on the cable until the pin that holds it to the linkage arm is a loose fit. Then adjust the clevis two turns long. It should move easily when held between two fingers. If it's stiff pull the cable and soak it in a degreaser (something like purple power, a solvent will soften the plastic outer coating on the cable) at least over night, then clean and oil real good! WD-40 or other penetrating oil really isn't good for permanent lubing. You need to get a light oil, maybe transmission fluid or a liquid silicone, in the cable. Soaking for 30 minutes or so in a container covering the cable shouldn't hurt.  

The trans itself is fine, but it's a light duty trans made for an economy car. It was used on nothing bigger than a 199 six. Another air cooled model was the M-37, used behind the 232. It's slightly stronger than the M-35 -- may just have more clutches and wider bands (or just a better friction material). You can replace it with a M-40, used behind the 232 in later years and behind the 290 and 304 V-8s. You'll have to keep the weird hole-in-the-side bell housing if it comes from a V-8 though. The 71 and earlier six has a different bell housing bolt pattern than the V-8, 72 and later I-6 and V-8 use the same bell pattern.  

hmmm bw35 trannys air cooled... ... guys... i dont know if anybody has tried swapping parts around with volvo 140 164 trannys... as both of those use bw 35's and have cooler lines..  even though it just dumps back into the pan.. not onto the  sprag like a c4....

older rover 2000s and 3500 used them also.. but are harder to find.. and the 3500s came with rover built 215 v8s very simular to the range rover motors of today...


and i also aggree that the throttle valve cable ajustment is critical on these... and never rebuild one of these without installing a NEW belville return sping.. in one of the front clutch packs.. it is the round disc with the starburst shape inside... looks like a diaphram clutch spring...


waynep712  

The AMC version of the M35 doesn't have the feed tube for a cooler. The boss is in the case, but the passage isn't drilled through to the outside and the tube required to send fluid to a cooler isn't there. The M40 and possibly the M37 (a slightly stronger version of the M35) may have the drilled passage and tube. Not sure what would be required to install the tube in an M35.  

Go here:http://www.amccf.com/tech/amc_auto_trannies.html has enough information whereby you could get the M-35 repaired and or upgraded. Or swap a later automatic in there. Concerning AMC parts availability within your scenario where someone could help you with this obscure- even by AMC standard- application and then by not being deluged with replies you "rested your case", come on. I could cite Chevy examples and do the same thing. 409 parts? Early six cylinder Corvette parts, Corvair - pre- 65? Gimme a break. The parts availability applies to the OHV sixes and non torque tube drivetrains, the '66 and later V-8's and select parts for highly regarded sports car AMC's like an AMX. Javelins are a close second. Concerning parts that interchange  through a model proliferation such as Hornet , Concord, Eagle- or Gremlin, Spirit, Eagle- sure you'll find relative parts availability related to the sheer number of years the permutations ran. Six and eight parts relate in part to the Jeep connection. Stuff is available-but not on trees for the esoteric stuff or for discontinued designs from 43 years ago.





Steve  

I pretty much agree with you Steve but contend that I would still get thrown under the bus from some for upgrading to commonly found Chevy parts, even though my car is of the 43 year old, discontinued variety. On a side note, I finally got the SOB Borg-Warner tranny lined out, I think.  The guy finally found a decent valvebody for it and  it has been shifting real nice for about 500 miles.  Keep your fingers crossed. On another side note, Edelbrock just started producing new aluminum heads for the old 409. Thanks for your interest.  

Sure you'd get thrown under the bus by some. The nature of marque enthusiasts. There's nothing daring in putting a Chevy/Chevy combo in a Rambler. Hell, I'd throw you under the bus for being incredibly boring. Nothing to to do with purism. Now, throw in a quick change rear, 4.0 six, or Pontiac Overhead cam six, or Cadillac Northstar V-8 and a VTi transmission and you'd be the man. If you want to stick it to stuffy, unimaginative unbending "purists" do so with some wit and creativity. If that's your aim.
Steve