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I found a great site just full of links for Oldsmobile stuff. Some of them I knew about like Miller Racing, and the one I remembered as Rocket Science was actually Rocket Racing Performance.
The site is called Go Fast Go Olds, and it has just a pleothora of different sites offering services and parts. Many of the sites have links to Oldsmobile clubs that may be valuable to you later on. Being a member of a club can net you a good network of people who keep their eyes peeled for special stuff like you are looking for.
On the site is a place called Hampton Blowers. It's a shoe in - they will have it if nobody else does since they tout blower setups for offbeat engines like Olds, Buick, and even AMC. Others were mentioned. It would probably come at a price, but hey - if you want to really get one, there it is. Look at the site maybe, and take a look at thier products. It was pretty interesting, but did look expensive. You won't know until you ask.
I think it's fair to say that a conventional roots blower setup is going to be expensive for what ever engine you buy it for. They are pretty specialized pieces of equipment. My guess is that a production one for a chev or ford is going to cost less, but not significantly. You're still dealing with the same equipment either way. You may want to contact them about price first. Not a bad idea anyhow.
I will say this. Even without the blower, an Olds engine is a good bet especially the older ones. For on street use and an occasional spanking at the track, even the post '77 403 is a pretty reliable unit. One of the guys I talk to frequently on this site has one in his Cutlass and he likes it. He has made some fairly modest modifications and is getting some good returns out of it. So in the world of Olds, there are many good choices.
As for the Blower Setup - Well, I stick by what I originally said. Stick with a pre 1973 block, reinforce the bottom end some, and you should be OK. If you want I can give you some casting numbers to look for. In fact, if you are going junk yard hopping, here is what to look for and what it means:
Casting numbers are located between the timeing cover and the intake manifold right next to the oil filler tube. There will be a six digit number followed by a letter for a big block, and a small number (like a 2 or whatever) for a small block.
A very common casting number is 396021 (followed by A, B, C, D etc.), and was used from '68 till well into the 70's. The letters designate the engine code, and anything up to a E block I understand is good. Pre '73 are the best ones, and those engine codes (A thru E) would fall in there someplace.
Cylinder heads for these engines are identified by a capital letter at the front or back of the head on the face right to the lower right or left of the valve cover. You can't miss it. A and B heads will signify pre '68 engines and might be either an early 400 (not likely) or 425 (more likely). Those engines are like some of the best but are getting harder to come by. I just peeled $1500 for a 425 that has a bunch of new parts, but it still needs to be gone through. C heads are some of the best you can get overall and flow real well. They were used on late '67 425 on up through '69 on the 400 and 455. Or you can go with aftermarket aluminum heads, and just use the information above to verify what you are finding. I herd tell that E heads were also found on some of the earlier engines, but my general knowledge is that E and G heads were found more like on 71 - 73 big blocks. I wouldn't hesitate to take a block with either one of those heads.
This isn't all inclusive. If I gave you every combination in the list I would be here all night, but I have it recorded in my notebook, so when you find one, let me know what you are looking at and we may be able to ID the thing.
Have fun on your hunt. Wish I could go. My idea of a good day is a romp through the local junkeria.
Bowser
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