Greetings Car Crafting Fans,

I am a complete novice in this arena but I have great interest in this area and hopefully can learn a lot in the coming year.  I have inherited '79 Cutlass as a template for the MIG/TIG welding class I will be taking.  So evetually as my skill progresses, I hope the outsides will look better than when I started.  What I am not so knowledgeable about is where to start on the parts that count.  Under the hood and between the wheels.  I have no brand, style, or method biases.  I have always done my own repairs and as many here enjoy trucking around the scrap yards.  What I don't know is where to begin when considering a serious project.  

It is a Stock stock stock vehicle.
Stock 260 engine and all made in Arlington TX according to the VIN.
Manual everything
No luxury items work (AC radio etc)
Heck, the window and door handles are broken off.
Only Positive thing is it has never been in an accident that did anything major to it.

I know what I want the finished project to be, and that's a start I guess. 
As with many people, I am on a budget but don't mind doing leg work and knuckle grinding myself.
I have space, time, and help if needed.
I am looking for a Daily street vehicle with an automatic. 
My wife will eventually want to drive I'm sure and she will not touch a manual. (Long story)
The Steering, Engine, Transmission, re....  Heck EVERYTHING needs to be replaced so no suggestion is a bad one at this stage.

So I guess, if there are literature suggestions you guys have I am more than happy to research before starting. (Favorite books, articles, websites, etc )

If you have suggestions based on personal preference/experience I'm all ears.

I will be using all resources available (junks yards, ebay, trade papers, etc) so any helpfuls hints or direction would be greatly appreciated.

I am in the Dallas area if that makes any difference to your recommendations on part sourcing or reference material.  As Time goes by If you would like pictures or what-not I'll try to supply athem as the project progresses.  Since this is the first project, I don't want to cost my self more time or money by screwing up, so it may go slow.  For anyone that offers any kinds of contructive help I thank you in advance.

I was in pretty much the same boat when I started.  I just recently (like this past summer recent) finished the project that my dad and I started five years ago. Do as much of the work yourself as you can...one its a good learning experience, and two it'll save you money if you take your time.  

Read as many Car craft magazines as you can find, even if its not specific to your application, a lot of this stuff overlaps.  

Personally, I have a problem with the whole cross breeding thing (putting a chevy in an olds for example).  Oldsmobile motors are pretty cool when you get into them. Big blocks will pull stumps with insane amounts of torque, and the olds small block can be built to run with just about any chevy small block.

A good site for olds motors, and maybe some cars similar to yours is 442.com.  The FAQ section has a lot of information about olds motors.  

I would definitly try to get an overdrive if you don't already have one.  Another cool swap that I made on my car, is to find a Monte Carlo SS or IROC steering box and swap it in.  Mine has the Monte SS box and its 3 turns lock to lock...really tight feel as opposed to the old stuff.

Good luck, let us know how it goes

Thanks! Looks like a lot of good info there.

I'll get to it after I scroll through these forums tonight.

First make sure the body (sheet metal)is in good shape.  If the sheet metal is too far gone the rest of the project is not going to work.  From your description I think you're probably OK in this area - if I read right this is a Texas car.

 Read everything you can about engines and cars- subscribe to Car Craft and maybe another car mag or two.  Go to your local library and read the entire section on engines cars etc., well a lot of it at least.

 Go to your local race track (circle track or drag strip), get a pit pass and volunteer to help someone with their car.  Don't ask the champ he already has all of the help he needs, but ask around, someone will need help and be glad to get it. If the sanctioning body or track won't let you in, call their office and ask if they know anybody that might need your help.  Don't expect to be rebuilding engines the first week, but do whatever the team needs. Ask questions, but don't be a pain.  Listen a lot more than you talk. Make friends on other teams.

Buy a good basic set of tools.  You don't need Snap-on tools you need good tools that work like Craftsman, Proto, SK etc.  Remember that the folks that deliver to garages (Snap-on, MAC) charge a lot for the delivery service - you don't need it.  I would suggest planning to spend at least $300-500 on a good set of tools.  For starters, 1/2, 3/8, and 1/4 in. drive socket sets with both short and long sockets, a set of combination wrenches in whatever variety you need, inch or metric, both if you can afford it.  A good set of screwdrivers for screws and a cheap set of screwdrivers for prying with (it saves your good ones).  A pair of Vicegrips and a pair of Channel-lock pliers - don't use these on nuts and bolts but they will come in handy.  A spray can of good penetrating oil.  A locking tool box.  Don't let anyone borrow your tools (buy your wife her own) unless you are SURE they will come back in a day or two.  Lots of patience for those times you want to throw a wrench through the windshield.

Now to your car in particular.  I'm not familiar with your engine but I'm sure someone, somewhere makes hot rod parts for it.  Find them and pick their brains, most folks are glad to talk you through your problems and lack of knowledge.  Spend some money with the folks that take care of you.  Find the local auto parts store that has a machine shop in the back and get to know them.  They can be an invaluable source of information and contacts.  Again, spend  some money with these folks.  If you pick their brains and spend your money with the national franchise shops to save a couple of bucks the folks with the machine shop will go away.  Buy good parts, not the lowest priced parts.  Remember that there is a reason that the cheaper parts are cheaper.

From your original post you said that you want to convert this car to an auto.  This is a big job and you should probably not tackle it right now.  You would need to change to a flywheel from a flexplate on the engine, get a new trans and probably have it rebuilt and change out the steering column or get a floor shifter, and possibly get a new crossmember and a new driveshaft.  Lots of work and big bucks. Get what you have running decently and have some fun with it. I looked around on the Internet some and it looks like you have a 5-speed - if you do I wouldn't give it up unless it has problems.   Get the engine you have running and unless it burns lots of oil or has some other major problem use it to learn with.  If you want, start assembling the basics of a new engine when you get a chance, block, crank, rods, heads etc.  Don't get pistons until you have the block checked.  If you need pistons (you probably will) the machinist will tell you how much over the stock bore they should be.  Get any used cast parts (heads, block) crack-checked BEFORE you spend any more money on them.  There's nothing worse than getting a valve job done on a cracked head (don't ask how I know).  Figure out what you want to build BEFORE you start.  There is a world of difference between a hot street engine (300-400 hp) and a full out race engine (700+ hp).  Remember that bigger is not always better.  It is indeed possible to get carbs, cams, headers, etc. that are too big for your application and will hurt performance.  Remember that an engine is a system and it all needs to work together.  I would think that for your engine (a 260) a 650 CFM carb and 1 5/8 inch headers would probably be plenty large enough - but check around.  Also remember that if you go to a heavier engine you will also probably have to change the front springs - be careful, a compressed coil spring can kill you if it gets away from you.

Maybe get a junk engine like yours, take the valve covers and oil pan and see how it works.  You might even want to get a visible V-8 engine by Revell and put it together if you don't understand how engines work.

I'm sure that there is a ton of stuff that I have forgotten to say but I think that this is a good start.  Good luck  and keep us posted.

For one, you are building on a good foundation.  Your car has a full frame under it and in my opinion that is both stronger and easier to work with.  I love Oldsmobiles and have built up a few engines, and strung together a few also.  The 260 is an alright engine, but has some real limitations if you want to hop it up any.  The whole foundation of any engine is the lower end (crank, main bearings, main journals, etc.) and this is where this particular motor is lacking.  If it is going to take major work to get it running, and you are going to have to rebuild right away, then I would pick a 350 Olds.  It will not present the weight problems that a big block would, even though the Olds big blocks are awsome.  One of the other guys referred to them as stump pullers and I wouldn't argue with the analogy.  The best 350's to get are in the 1968 to 1972 time frames.  These tend to have higher nickel content in the cast iron than the newer ones, so they can take more punishment.  A website that you can reference (I think you type in oldsfac.com or something like that) has tons of information on newer and later blocks and other parts that you might find interesting.  They can supply you with block casting numbers to distinguish the various years.  If you have to rebuild the motor, you may be able to get an engine and automatic transmission together, although I agree with the gentleman who encouraged you to keep what is there.

I can tell you up front that there weren't many of those made with manual trannys - 5 speed or otherwise.  I know a few people who would give up part of their manlihood just to have the car you got optioned the way it is.  In my view, the only big improvement would be the engine, but hey - to each his own.  Your car may even have a factory posi in it.  442.com or Oldsfac.com can give you information on what to look for in order to tell.  Since it is a manual shift car, the posi may have been included in a package, or special order.

If you decide to rebuild your engine, I can give you some information on bottom end reinforcement, and other things that are nice to know when building up a new power plant.  Please feel free to pick my brain, and I can steer you to some parts sources that can supply some good stuff for Olds engines.  Any way you decide to go, I would keep it Oldsmobile. 

My son and I both have vintage Oldsmobile iron.  He has a '66 442 that is his daily driver which sports a 455 big block.  I have a bunch of Olds cars, but my favorite is a '67 Cutlass S with a modified 330 cubic inch small block in it.  Right now I can toast him.  When we redo the big block, I probably will get him off the line, but he will win in the longrun.  Have a good time and keep us informed.  Bowser

I see a couple of people mentioning the weight difference between a big block and a small block...and its valid, there is a difference.  I cant remember where I read this, so you'd definitly want to check it out, but I've read that if the big block has aluminum heads, and an aluminum intake, that it will weigh about as much as a small block.  Oldsmobiles aren't big block chevys (where the weight difference is so big the entire block has to be aluminum to weigh as much as a small block).  Bowser may be able to confirm or dispute this, as he has built more Olds motors than I have, but its certainly worth checking out.  The aluminum heads (from edelbrock in particular) will flow better than the originals, and will have a modern combustion chamber to improve efficiency.

But the best advice I've seen is to get to know the machine shop guys.  I went off inquiring about having some work done to a 350 that I already had, and ended up coming across a well built small block that the owner couldn't pay his bill on.  It took a little while, but he finally bit on our (I was 15 at the time, it turned into a birthday present) offer of $1500 (which was the completely unrealistic budget we had set).  If you'd like to see the specs on my small block (which drives really well on the street...really smooth idle, plenty of pop) check out this thread - http://forums.carcraft.primediaautomotive.com/n/mb/message.asp?webtag=carcraft&msg=1921.9&ctx=0
Bowser's 330 is also in there.

Any questions, just ask.  There aren't a ton of Olds guys out there, but the ones who are are pretty die hard.  It seems we jump all over the olds threads on this board.

Some one mentioned a good set of tools as well...very good advice.  I have a set of Husky tools, and personally like them better than my dads craftsman wrenches (smaller and longer neck)  They weren't too expensive.  But also, check your local pawn shops.  If you find a set of MAC or SnapOn wrenches, buy em up.  They both have lifetime guarantees and will be replaced even if you didn't originally buy them.  Also, this is a bit advanced maybe...but maybe not, an air compressor comes in real handy ALOT.  If you can afford one, get it, otherwise, if you find one cheap, get it.  Something is going to happen when you put an impact wrench on a rust tightened bolt...either its coming out, or its breaking...but something is going to happen.

Biggest key...have fun!

i would have to say be different and do all the less glamorus stuff right first. i built a car then sripped it so i can channel floors add frame ect. i would say if you think your ever gonna want a totaly boxed frame for stiffness and since you want to weld or a 4 link (not a great idea on the street) or anything like that do it now its not that expensive to buy metal. flashy shocks and spring are easy to do on a fully assembled painted car. major physical mods are not. you weld y not a ford 9inch rear? im a ford guy but it seems the bias is that the 200r4 is the auto of choice now. and do you want a sicko motor or do you want to drive your car? i know a guy with a chevell and a crate gm 350 zz4 or sumthin and hes happy driving it. quick enough too. dont try to do it all once things can be made better as you go. the goal is to drive it.i know a guy with a rebuilt lt1 factory harness in a chevy s10. its awsome fast and low buck. an intake and hes gonna add a supercharger. think about it  

You are absolutely correct in saying that there isn't as much difference between the small and big block Olds in weight.  I would quantify that to a comparison between a full cast iron small block and big block.  The 260 I'm pretty sure does utilize aluminum, so the difference between it and say the 350/455 would be considerable.  I also agree that a way around this is to use aftermarket aluminum heads and intake, but we are talking $$$.  The better way around it is just to change the springs in the front of the car.  A rotten job to say the least, but new springs would be much cheaper to do by comparison.  The only Buick-Olds-Pontiac big block that would not represent a big leap in poundage is the Buick as it is the lightest of the three.  While the big block Buick intrigues me, I also know what it costs to build those and if it's out of my comfort range *** wise, then it's going to be out of reach for the average hot rodder.

Everything else you are saying I agree with.  Good tools, and I think an air compressor is a must have item.  Even if it's used just for the compressed air it is just something I couldn't get by without.  Pawn shops are a good source for these as well.  Taken care of properly and blown down everyday they will last a lifetime almost.  I have had my Dayton Speedaire since 1977, and it works as well as the day it was purchased.  As far as air tools go - they are icing on the cake.  They make any job easier.  I have slowly aquired them over time, but wouldn't be without them now.

Good luck - Bowser

A quick bit of advice about tools . All of the tools mentioned are great and can do the job. I personally like Craftsman because they liek others mentioned have a lifetime warranty no matter who bought them . Another benifit is they do not care if you use a screwdriver as a pry bar you mess it up they replace it . Not always true with other models. Also Sears are everywhere so finding replacement dealers not hard either. Do nto get me wrong not saying the others mentioned are bad because they are not . In many ways they are sometimes superior as far as some aspects of usage . I just think , persoanlly , dollar for dollar considereing everything that Craftsman are the best. I have been told by a dealer of Husky tools that their warranty was the same as Sears but a couple of years later when I broke a bit on a driver I was told I had to send it in to get my replacement . That is not the same as Craftsman and felt lied too. Anyway my 2 cents worth . Oh keep an Olds in your Olds will be neater in the long run.   

Wow.

Thanks for all the great feedback, Gents.

I apologize I believe I mispoke due to my newness to the subject.  When I said I had manual everything I meant doors, windows, etc.  I have an auto trans that is dead.

I did some wading and it seems that 350's will be pretty easy to get.  From what I have read, there were suggestions of taking the whole unit out (motor and trans) if I for some strange reason am unable to do so, what transmission would you recommend for the 350?  Next question for arguement's sake, will that trans bolt the 455 or will I need to research something else?  The reason I ask is because the trans in it now seemed to have a 12 month life cycle.  He literally trashed it once a year & I want to avoid the same negative performance/reliability.

There are lots of great suggestions.  Thanks a million.

Any trans with a BOP (Buick Olds Pontiac) bolt pattern will bolt up to any olds motors (with exception being something smaller than a V8 or the late model Aurora V8's), big or small.  As far as handling it, a Th350 will withstand whatever you throw at it with a small block...and could probably handle the big block as well (so long as you don't go too over board).  A TH400 is bullitproof.  The problem with both of those is that they do not have overdrive.  Around town that is not a big deal, but when you take it on the highway it becomes a big deal.  The Th200-4R is an overdrive tranny that from the factory was pretty weak, but it was available in the BOP pattern.  They can be built stronger, or you can buy one.  Right now I am building one myself, in the end, its going to be around $1400-1500 for absolutely everything needed for the swap into my 68 Olds cutlass (I'm also putting in a few things that may be overkill, but I like the insurance...you could probably build one for $1000).  I'm not sure when they started putting those tranny's into Cutlass's, but you may get lucky and be able to rob some parts out of a car in a junk yard (I have to pay $160 for a console conversion kit, like $25 for a TV cable bracket, and $75 for a lockup kit, all which would be on a car that originally had the transmission).  If you don't feel like building one yourself, TCI has fully rebuilt units that I believe are around the $1300-1500, but these wont include the converter, the tv bracket, or the TV cable.  Figure out your budget, then decide what you want.  The TH350 and TH400 are cheaper than the TH200-4R.

Good luck!

i cant imagine some1 trashing a trans once a year unless it was a horrible model or bad rebuild. that or if he was getting junkyard trannys and flogging them then i guess. i would go with the 200r4. 700r4 has lots of quirks. the 200 to this point is probably cheaper as i belive it must have come in less exciting cars or something im not a gm guy but until recently people have been using the 700. as i said i dont know why im not a gm guy but i would say you could get a 200 have it rebuilt it only cost me 400dollars for my c6 rebuild from a speed shop. i bought a converter and then i put in a hughes full manual auto valve body and a quick silver shifter. whats that about a grand? especially if you use ebay. i worship ebay and bidnapper. by the way i used to work on cars and snap on tools are second to none but not needed for the hobbiest i have a tool box with 10grand of tools in it to use on my lawn equipment, not really neccessary. also i bought a compressor on ebay. rebuilt it new motor pulley belts, 3500 dollar curtis toledo for 900dollars. anyways use ebay  

You won't find 700R4's in the BOP bolt pattern.  They were just not made.  If you want to use one on a BOP, you have to get a conversion plate and spacers for the converter.  The 2004R's can be made even  stronger than the 700R4's although they initially had some problems with them.  If he has an overdrive automatic, it's probably already a 2004R.  Agreed that the Turbo 400 is bullet proof, but the Turbo 350 can be made to take punishment from even big blocks.  They are lighter by about 75 pounds, and rob less horsepower.  I chose the Turbo 350 for my Cutlass because they were easy to find and build strong.  Mine was built by a professional tranny guy on the side, and he installed all the bells and whistles.  With converter, it came to $475, and he sticks by his work.  If he has a three speed auto, it's probably a turbo 350 anyway just because it's a 260 engine.  They wouldn't have hung a 400 on it unless it was ordered that way.  My guess is he has the 2004R, and thats the best one to build because it has a solid input shaft as apposed to the hollow ones that are on the 700's.  You mentioned quirks in the 700R4, and that's probably the biggest where the imput shaft literally shatters under heavy or sudden torque.  All that said, I have 700R4s in my two Camaros and they have been very dependable and neither one has even come close to scattering on me.  I don't push them real hard either.

Food for thought - Bowser

First off, you're gonna have fun if and only if you get some "support" from your wife, no matter if it's her simply letting you have the time without riding you about it or her actually helping out with the  project.  Hopefully both.  For daily driver purposes you should scour the junkyard for a busted buick t-type and steal the rear and 200-4r  and maybe the driveshaft since they're a bit shorter than some of the other combos (.99 inches)  These should all bolt up to your A-body since A and G body GM cars share a bunch of stuff.  I have no idea about swapping in an Olds motor 'cause I don't even know the layout of a 260, but if it's not a bolt in deal you can always apply some of that welding knowledge you're gonna pick up.  You could also spend some time looking for factory lightweight aluminum radiator supports and factory "F-41" suspention components from other cars, it would help your car's handling out, as would a suspention rebuild for the front.  That's all I've got so good luck to ya  

Definitely get the good tools. This might sound bad, but, look for estate sales or yardsales. Car guys die too ya know and when they do, you can usually score some tools for pretty cheap. I got an engine stand, and a lift for like 40 bucks.