I have been shopping around for a 350 that I would like to rebuild for a class I am taking this next year in college, one semester is focused on heads and the other on the shortblock. I got a 71 nova and I am not quite sure what is in there now however it is a small block. I would like to keep the engine that is in the car and be able to drive it while I take the next year in college to build up this engine, and if I mess up for anyreason (GOD I HOPE NOT ) I got another engine to fall back on.

I got a good deal on a 350 from a place down by my house. The guy is willing to sell the longblock, it is missing a water pump, distributor, alternator, intake manifold, and flywheel but anyway to my question.

He said that it was a crate motor which is fine w/ me and hasn't ever been bored over and its a complete shortblock w/ heads which is what I want. However he isn't sure if its a 2 or 4 bolt main, I would like a 4 bolt main.

Block Casting #: 3970010
Made during 69-79, 350cid, 185 low hp, 370 high hp, 2 or 4 bolt main used in cars, trucks, and corvettes.

I am having major trouble decoding the VIN number though:
V0199800
There was a site I found that said 9800 was some sequence for over the counter crate engines, I havn't however been able to find anything on that.

The only thing I can find out about this thing is that it was made in Flint. Even if I was able to decode this would I be able to figure out if its a 4 bolt main? I have looked online and the way this VIN is I cannot figure out anything about it other than where it was made. Am I going to have to just take the chance and buy it or ask the guy and hope that I can drop the oil pan and find out before I buy? Any suggestions would be apprecaited. Everyone I've talked to says that a 4 bolt is probably the best way to go and I'd like to start on a good leg, this will be my first rebuild. If anyone has a website that can decode the VIN I have please post it or email me, i've done some searches on google and nothing seems to add up.

Any help / comments is appreciated.

Good luck with the Nova Look up Mor Tec They will have casting #'s # of mains etc.  Production dates.   

Unfortunatly the vin wont tell you if its a 2 or 4 bolt, the only way to tell is to drop the pan. This is a good idea anyway when buying any motor to check for signs of wear, sludge, shrapnel, etc. If he does let you drop the pan its also a good idea to pop off a few caps to check bearing condition. My general rule of thumb is if someone wont let me inspect something before buying, theyre probably trying to hide something.

I'm not sure of any sites that decode the vin, but I've never felt this as important as the casting #. You said you have the "010" block which is the heavy duty, high nickle content casting.

Good luck.

"You said you have the "010" block which is the heavy duty, high nickle content casting."

Not necessarily.  There were a zillion small-blocks produced with the casting number ending in 010. 

Legend has it that the high nickel blocks had the number "010," "020," or "010/020" raised on the engine core and located on the sides of the block (near the mounts) and above the front cam bearing (behind the cam sproket).

Actually the true number is shy of a zillion by about 3.

010 blocks were used in heavy duty applications (truck, camaro, corvette), and will have the numbers on the rear of the block and on the sides, if it is found behind the timing cover the block also contains a higher level of tin. These blocks are stronger than the common blocks(also a zillion made) found in passenger cars.

Also the 010 doesnt just refer to 350, but also 327, and the 69 dz302 was a 010 casting.

Legend aside, this is all sourced from "How to build high performance chevys"

There seems to be little doubt of it being a 350 (though it could be a 327 o 302). I think that your V0199800 code (engine ID code) is the better way to know if it is a 350 (and what performance). The way I understand it is that the ID should indicate the plant (V=Flint), the month (01=January), day (ex: 18=18th), followed by a 3 letter engine suffix code (that tells size and varying details such as hp and transmission type among others). Your code just doesn't seem to work in this manner since there isn't 99 days in January and the last digits are numbers. You said the guy selling you the motor said it was a crate engine and that you found that 9800 was some code for over the counter crate engines. That's all likely very true and why there is no suffix code. This is most likely a low compression (around 8.5:1) Goodwrench crate engine (highly unlikely to be a 302 or 327). I've seen at least 4 of these "010" castings (owned 2 of them and still own 1) and all of them were 4-bolt mains, but I've heard of them being 2-bolts as well (along with seeing info on them). I agree with what someone else said and ask the owner to let you drop the pan and inspect the engine. I'd be much more worried about excessively wore or spun bearings than whether it was a 2- or 4-bolt main. Remove the plugs and make sure the engine will actually spin too. Also know that only the middle main caps consist of 4 bolts in a factory 4-bolt main SB Chevy, the front and rear (thrust) mains will have only 2 bolts in them. Don't fret if it's just a 2-bolt main. Not only will it be likely that the stock rods and pistons (not to mention valve train) will fail long before the mains need an extra 2 bolts, but you can have it machined to accept splayed 4-bolt caps for serious durability. Good luck!