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Suspension Illistration

 
71_bigblocknova 71_bigblocknova
Guru | Posts: 930 | Joined: 09/04
Posted: 02/07/05
11:56 AM

I'm doing a senior project on how suspensions work, and would like a visual aide to help. I dont know how many of you watched Popular Hotrodding TV a few years ago, but they had "Pipes" talk while an illistrtion or animation we being played. I believe they had one on pinion angles and various suspension items. If anyone knows how I could get ahold of these, or has some of their own, please let me know.

 

 
EthelkilledFred EthelkilledFred
Enthusiast | Posts: 355 | Joined: 02/04
Posted: 02/07/05
01:37 PM

I'm doing a senior project on how suspensions work, and would like a visual aide to help


I don't know, a Ford guy invented these, but it works on Chevy, imagine that.



Tracy Dennis NMCA EZ Street


Component Discription



1. The Front Pivot


Two steel plates sandwich the leaf spring sides. Two attach points in the plates provide the user with a selection in which the forward Force Transfer Link rod end can be located. A machined aluminum spring eye bushing and steel insert supports the front of the spring while allowing the plates to pivot. A spring stop bolt controls and restricts spring wrap-up. Spacers are provided for different vehicle applications that control clearances in the front spring eye pocket.






2. Force Transfer Link

This is a length of chromolly tubing with CNC machined threaded inserts TIG welded into each end. The front Insert is machined with right hand Threads and a HEX outer shape for Simple wrench adjustment of the Installed assembly. The rear insert is Left hand threaded. Opposite thread Styles at each end provide the means to easily lengthen or shorten the link for desired pre-load adjustment.



3. Rear Mount


A welded ¼" steel assembly replaces the original vehicles spring perch and incorporates the mounting provisions for the rear rod end of the Force Transfer Link.




John Calvert's Ford Mustang


CALVERT RACING
42156 10th Street West Unit V
Lancaster, Ca. 93534
Phone 661-948-1490
Fax 661-948-1575

 The Calvert Racing Team

 

 
71_bigblocknova 71_bigblocknova
Guru | Posts: 930 | Joined: 09/04
Posted: 02/07/05
04:11 PM

Thats works perty well, but I was also looking for like a small animated movie, or even one that shows the various movements of a full suspension in action.  

 
EthelkilledFred EthelkilledFred
Enthusiast | Posts: 355 | Joined: 02/04
Posted: 02/07/05
07:21 PM

e-mail him and see if he has anything he could share for your project or know where to  get it, all I can find are still pics.


 







Designing and tuning the 4-Link Rear Suspensions
for the Oval Track

This article explains the workings of the 4-link suspension and the tuning methods used to maximize its performance under various track conditions. This information applies only to 4-link rear suspensions having links floated on the rear axle (via birdcages) with all links running forward.


The 4-Link Difference Upper Links Lower Links Indexing AFCO Springrod AFCO Clamp Brackets


The popularity of the 4-link suspension is due primarily to its ability to let the race car turn freely in the middle of the corner without compromising forward bite. To understand how a 4-link can be made to provide such handling, you must first understand a few basics about rear suspensions.


Realize that you can increase forward bite on any type of rear suspension by angling the trailing arms upward toward the front of the race car. Trailing arms mounted in this manner cause the rear tires to try to drive underneath the chassis as the rear axle pushes the race car forward (See illustration 1). As a result, the loading of the rear tires (during acceleration) is quickened and forward bite is enhanced.


Illustration 1.


There can be a handling trade-off, however, to the forward traction gained by running the trailing arms upward to the front of the race car. During chassis roll, trailing arm/s mounted upwards will cause the right rear tire to move rearward (until the arm/s reach a level position) and the left rear tire to move forward. The condition is referred to as "loose roll steer". (See illustration 2A.)





Loose roll steer causes the rear axle to steer towards the outside of the race track. If excessive, loose roll steer can cause a loose handling condition that negates the benefits of the forward bite gained by running the trailing arms upward towards the front. However, the right amount of loose roll steer can help a race car to turn the corner correctly. At best, any trailing arm arrangement is a compromise between forward bite and roll steer.



The 4-Link Difference


A well designed 4-link provides good forward bite and the proper amount of roll steer. The two most critical factors to the performance of a 4 link suspension are the link lengths designed into the suspension and the angles to which the links are adjusted. The key to correctly designing and tuning a 4 link is to understand the significance of these two factors.



Upper Links


We stated earlier that trailing arms mounted upwards to the front of the race car enhance forward bite by using axle thrust to quicken the loading of the rear tires. We use the upper links on a 4-link suspension to enhance the forward bite. Upper link angles from 15º to 18º on the right and 10º to 15º on the left provide good forward bite. A good starting point for both links is 15º upwards (to the front).


However, keep in mind that chassis roll causes the link angles to change. If the link angles become more upward on the left than on the right, the left rear tire can become loaded more quickly than the right during acceleration (due to the axle thrust effect). This condition may cause a gas pedal push. One fix is to position the links so that the right side link is from 3º to 5º higher than the left when the chassis is at ride height.


Be aware that trailing arms angled uphill too steeply can hold the chassis up during acceleration which can reduce the effectiveness of the shocks and springs. This condition will cause loose handling-especially on rough race tracks. Keep in mind that trailing arm angles can become excessive if the rear of the chassis lifts a lot during acceleration.


The length of the upper links should be at least 17" . We can reduce loose roll steer by making the lower links shorter than the upper links (more on this later). If the upper links are shorter than 17", the lower links have to be extremely short to minimize loose roll steer. But extremely short links change their angles radically whenever the suspension moves. When the rear links are too short forward bite and roll steer are overly affected and handling becomes inconsistent.



Lower Links


We can use the lower links of a 4-link suspension to help offset the loose roll steer tendency caused by the steep angles of the upper links. The following examples and illustrations should help you to understand this important function of the lower links. You should pay close attention to how the lower link adjustments change the paths traveled by the bottom of the birdcages during chassis roll. Keep in mind that any change to the path traveled by any trailing arm will affect roll steer.


For example, in illustration 2A, both the top and the bottom links move the birdcages (and the rear tires) rearward on the right side and forward on the left side during chassis roll. This action will cause loose roll steer.


We can reduce loose roll steer by lowering the bottom links at the chassis. You can see how this adjustment works in illustration 2B. We've lowered the bottom links to a level position and now the bottom of the right side birdcage moves forward during chassis roll instead of rearward as in illustration 2A. On the left, we have reduced the forward movement of the bottom of the birdcage. As a result, loose roll steer is reduced.



Basically, we've position the bottom links to counteract the forward(L.S.) and rearward (R.S.) movements of the birdcages caused by the upper links. As a result, we reduced loose roll steer. We can reduce loose roll steer further by lowering the bottom links further as shown in illustration 2C. Notice how this adjustment, positioning the lower links 5ºdownhill, causes the bottom of the right side birdcage to move forward more during chassis roll than in illustration 2B where the links are level. On the left side, the bottom of the birdcage now moves rearward (until the link reaches a level position) instead of forward as in illustrations 2A and 2B. Consequently, a further reduction in loose roll steer results.



Generally, bottom link angles from 0º to 5º downhill (to the front) are used to help control loose steer. Some forward bite may be lost when the bottom links are lowered but the effect on forward bite is usually minor relative to the overall handling improvement that is realized by reducing loose roll steer.


Another method used to reduce the loose roll steer of a 4-link suspension is to shorten the bottom links. Notice, in illustration 2D, how the shortened bottom link pulls the bottom of the right side birdcage forward during chassis roll more than the longer links in the other illustrations. The bottom of the left side birdcage does lose some of its rearward movement because of the shortened bottom link. But since left side birdcages typically move down much less than right side birdcages move up during chassis roll, the overall effect, when shortening the lower links, is a reduction in loose roll steer. However, if the left rear of your chassis hikes up during cornering, loose roll steer may increase whenever both bottom links are shortened!



We could reduce loose roll steer even further by combining the long bottom link arrangement of illustration 2C on the left side and the short bottom link arrangement of illustration 2D on the right side. The preceding paragraphs should help you understand why.


The length of the bottom links are dependent on the roll steer and traction characteristics desired by the chassis tuner. For most track conditions, bottom links 2æ shorter than the upper links work well. Short links( from 3æ to 4æ shorter than the upper links) generally work best for tight, flat race tracks or on any track where the chassis tends to be loose. Long bottom links (equal in length or no more than 1æ shorter than the upper links) work best for fast tracks or on any track where the chassis tends to push. You should use the information in this article to determine the correct link lengths for your application.


However, a proven 4-link arrangement includes 15 1/2æ bottom links, mounted 5º downwards to the front, coupled with 17 1/2æ top links, mounted 15º upwards to the front.




Indexing


A 4-link birdcage rotates or "indexes" on the axle tube whenever the suspension moves (unless both upper and lower links are equal in length and parallel to each other). Indexing is greatest when there is a lot of length and/or angle difference in the upper and lower links.


Typically, indexing causes the coil-over mounts, if located on the front of the birdcages, to rotate against the shocks and springs during suspension bump (compression) movement. As a result, the springs and shocks are compressed from both ends at once and the suspension becomes very stiff. (Try to bounce the rear of a car with a 4-link rear suspension).


During chassis roll, indexing loads the right rear tire and unloads the left rear tire and wedge is reduced (40 lbs to 80 lbs is typical!).


Indexing can improve driveability by keeping the race car flat in the corners. However, indexing can cause the rear suspension to be too harsh on rough race tracks. When selecting springs for your 4-link, you should keep in mind the effect that indexing has on suspension stiffness.



AFCO Springrod


The AFCO Springrod (see the AFCO Catalog) is used to replace the right side upper link when tighter handling during acceleration is desired. The operation of the springrod is simple. During acceleration the springrod compresses and allows the right rear tire to move forward. This movement steers the rear axle to the inside of the track and tightens the race car.


When the springrod compresses it causes the birdcage to rotate away from the right rear spring (if the coil-over unit is mounted ahead of the axle). As a result, the right rear tire loses some of its load (the left rear tire gains load) during acceleration and handling becomes tighter off the corner. The AFCO Springrod can provide a significant handling improvement.



AFCO Clamp Brackets


AFCO Clamp Brackets (see AFCO Catalog) are used to mount the coil-over units directly to the axle housing. When clamp brackets are used in front of the axle, axle wrap-up during acceleration causes the rear axle & chassis to separate. The rear axle (and tire) are forced towards the race track.


Clamp brackets are sometimes used on short, slick tracks to improve initial forward bite. Mounting the left coil-over unit ahead of the axle (on a clamp bracket) generally tightens corner handling. Mounting both coil-over units on clamp brackets and ahead of the axle can improve forward bite on stop and go or slick race tracks. On extremely slick race tracks, you can tighten overall corner handling by using clamp brackets to mount the left coil-over unit ahead of the axle and the right coil-over unit behind the axle.


Suspension movement usually increases when the coil-over units are taken off birdcages and mounted to clamp brackets (since there's no longer any indexing of the springs). Consequently, it may be necessary to increase rear spring rate when making this adjustment.


You should keep in mind that any loading of the rear tires caused by clamp brackets during acceleration will be accompanied by an unloading of the rear tires during deceleration This unloading can upset the race car upon corner entry -especially when both coil-over units are positioned ahead of the axle and attached to clamp brackets. You may be required to make chassis adjustments to correct any corner entry handling problems caused by clamp brackets.



Final Points


The 4-link is a relatively complex rear suspension that is very sensitive to adjustments. A link length change of 1" or a link angle change of 5º can make a noticeable change to handling. When designing or tuning a 4-link, it is important to understand the relationship between link lengths and angles and how the relationship affects roll steer and tire loadings.


We highly recommend that you build a full-scale working model of your 4-link, or use the design parameters mentioned in this article, to help you to better understand the 4-link suspension. You can use cardboard, wood, aluminum strips, etc. The idea is to trace the paths actually traveled by the centers of the birdcages during chassis roll. You should draw the paths to include at least 3" of rebound movement for the left birdcage path and at least 3" of compression movement for the right birdcage path.


You can evaluate the roll steer characteristics of different set-ups by comparing the different paths drawn on your model. You can also check the indexing and the link angle changes during roll or bump. In short you will speed up your learning process by working with a model.


As we stated earlier, the 4-link is a fairly complicated rear suspension. We hope the information in this article, combined with your efforts, will provide you with an AFCO advantage!



Tuning Tips































Increasing the upward angle (to the front) of any link will enhance forward bite and increase loose roll steer.
Decreasing the upward angle (to the front) of any link will decrease forward bite and reduce loose roll steer.
Suggested angle adjustment parameters:

Upper Links: 12º to 20º (upward) RS 10º to 18º (upward) LS

Lower Links: -5º to +5º
You may need to reduce link angles when using clamp bracket/s and/or when running on rough race tracks.
You may need stiffer rear shocks when using clamp brackets (to control wheel hop).
Angling the links inboard (at the front) tends to increase loose roll steer.
You can correct roll steer handling problems by leading or trailing the right rear tire (or left rear).
Shortened bottom links (especially R.S.) tend to reduce loose roll steer.
find it  

 
EthelkilledFred EthelkilledFred
Enthusiast | Posts: 355 | Joined: 02/04
Posted: 02/07/05
07:26 PM

Here is one-


 


Shock Absorbers


 Springs, linkage and pivot bushings allow the suspension to have motion. But something is needed to eliminate too much motion. Without proper control, the suspension motion will become excessive and even violent. The vehicle chassis (body) will wallow and pitch and the tires will constantly lose contact with the road surface.

Enter the shock absorber or damper. If the springs are the heart of the suspension, then shock absorbers can be considered the brains. Shocks use hydraulic friction to damp out or resist suspension motion. Springs are "load-sensitive" devices while shock absorbers react to suspension velocities. Shocks remove kinetic (or motion energy,) from the suspension and turn it into heat. That in turn is dissipated into the air. Shock absorbers work in two directions and are critical as working companions to the springs.

Compression (or the closing direction) works with the spring to reduce bottoming and help keep the tire in good contact with road surface.







Tire to Road

MORE THAN


ANY OTHER COMPONENT, SHOCKS ARE RESPONSIBLE FOR GOOD TIRE TO ROAD CONTACT.


Compression / Rebound AnimationThe extension or opening phase is supposed to control the release of spring energy so that the vehicle chassis does not bounce, float or wallow around.


The challenge for shock and suspension engineers is designing a shock absorber that provides the correct amount of control for each of a wide variety of suspension actions.

Too much control and the vehicle will have a harsh ride and lack traction, too little control and the chassis and tires will bounce around too much. For more information see
Evaluating Your Shocks.


Meeting the challenge of "just right" involves more than using the cheapest parts possible. Experience, sophisticated design and quality are necessary to build a good shock absorber.

 

 
EthelkilledFred EthelkilledFred
Enthusiast | Posts: 355 | Joined: 02/04
Posted: 02/07/05
07:31 PM

Here is another-


 


Animated Views







Without Roadmaster Active Suspension
WITHOUT ROADMASTER
ACTIVE SUSPENSION
With Roadmaster Active Suspension
WITH ROADMASTER
ACTIVE SUSPENSION


VIEW ENLARGED ILLUSTRATIONS


Roadmaster Active Suspension can be fitted to a wide range of vehicles with rear leaf springs including most:



  • Mini Pickup Trucks
  • ½, ¾ & 1 Ton Pickup Trucks
  • 1 Ton Dualies
  • Sport Utility Vehicles (SUV's)
  • Mini Vans
  • Delivery Vans
  • Disability Vans
  • Conversion Vans
  • 1 Ton Cab & Chassis Units
  • Most 1 Ton Motorhomes & RV's




See also:

Quick Look at Roadmaster

Principles of Operation

New Additions

Avoiding Axle Wrap


 

 
71_bigblocknova 71_bigblocknova
Guru | Posts: 930 | Joined: 09/04
Posted: 02/08/05
09:44 AM

Ok, thanks. those work great  

 

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