Hello people: I'm new to carcraft and a "newbie starter" to spraygun painting. Please try not to laugh too hard at me because this is my first post and i'm new to painting.I will create a profile soon, but for now, I have an 05/Ram/1500/Hemi/QC/Red

I'm in the process of colormatching my door handles on my truck. They are the textured plastic. I sanded all the texture off, washed them very well, &wax&grease remover. Before priming, I used bulldog ad promoter and within 10 minutes I was spraying a nason urathane primer(nason 2k 421-19). After 24hrs of dry time, I had seen there was 2 huge blisters on the flat part of the handle assembly. With the exception of those two blisters, the primer adhered very well. Any thoughts?

Many thanks
Don

Also, I have had my psi(at the gun) set to 42(stupid me). Is that too much? I recently found this out that it should be no more than about 23-25.  

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Rollin On 4:56's  

With my experiences it's either water or oil in your lines.Tell me what you have for compressor,filters and traps,one trick I used to tell customers at the paint stores is blow some of your compressed air into a white paper towel and look for water or oil.If so you know what's next,check air pump for ring seal and keeping water out of the tank.Every make and model have different pressure seting because of design,with 23-25 psi that sounds like HVLP type that recommended psi is putting out only 10 psi at the cap which is commonplace because of the regulations the EPA  started in the early 90's.    WIEDER  

Thanks for responding. The compressor I have is from harbor freight, and the model# is 90234. It's a 4hp/10gal.
I have no filters(wouldn't know what to get for that model, or how to attach it), and I don't know what a trap is. The guns I have are gravity fed, but not hvlp.What really confuses me is why were the blisters in just two spots and not on the entire base? Many Thanks.  

Head back to Harbor and get a wall mount air filter and run hose to it and out to gun.There's oil traps and in-line oilers the latter is for airtools.Or go to a autopaint store you'll spend more but you also will get in most cases get better info.and they can set you up with airline fittings to plumb it.If you take on complete paint projects in the future,look into a least a 5hp that draws at least 22-24 amps w/60gal tank.With painting you need the cleanest air as possible and bigger compressors don't work as hard and sweat less which means less water in lines and some oil also.Water or oil spits out in small droplets also surface cantamination is possible.     Keep us tuned in    WIEDER  

many many thanks for the info&assistance. it's great when people who don't know you(like youself) are willing to step up.  

People like you is why I like to help when possible.Keep us posted on progress     WIEDER  

Today or tomarrow i'm going to harbor freight to pick up an air filter. One more question: At one point, I had to wipe down a small buildup (not run)of ad promoter with laquer thinner(as per the can directions, then respray the small area. Could that have also caused the blistering in those spots?  

Lacquer thinner can leave a oil film on the surface and sometimes will give you fish-eyes, in your case with blisters I should have mentioned solvent popping which is caused by to much material to fast not allowing long enough flash time between layers.If I did a complete with 3 coats of high solids clear the last coat needs to wait at least a 1/2 hr to 45 minutes max at room temp because the first two coats need to have solvents to escape or it will blister.Preclean wipe down solvents is recommeded but also wipe with a dry lint-free while the solvent is still wet. Heavy paper wipes from the paint stores are good to use like Scott brand 5790 wipes.  WIEDER  

I had called the Kleen-Strip company and a tech had told me that the bulldog ad promoter does not work well(if at all)with the acrylic enamel automotive paints. The automotive paint i'm using is a custom shaded Nason2K/BC(acrylic enamel, two stage) purchased from an autobody supply. If the bulldog promoter doesn't work well with my paint(as per the tech from Kleen-Strip), what would? Should I try the duplicolor promoter(cp199) that I have? I used it on my plastic coated chrome cablights(colormatched) and to this day(about 5 months)are holding up perfect. What I don't understand is why would the tech for the bulldog promoter say that it won't work in my situation if the plastic is primed before the BC is applied? I'm not applying promoter, then BC. This is all too damn confusing.  

Bulldog being a universal promotor probaly doesn't work with every type of paint,but I would think it would with your paint.If you haven't already call Nason,when starting out with autopaints stick with the same paint line all the way thru.I for years besides other painters have mixed brands because we know the base of the products and can get away with it most of the time.If you do stay with one line and do have problems most Rep's will help,but if they see other brands on the bench they might walk away.Keep us posted    WIEDER  

I have to confess that I had made a mistake with my last post. The rep from kleen-strip said the bulldog wont work with single stage/acrylic enamel(which I have a small can of for touchips), but my primary bc is urathane I found out, so i'm ok. Took your great advise wieder, and got an air filter for my comp(from harborfreight). What a difference in the way the air is expelled. Nice&dry. In the past before the the air filter, when blowing off something, I could see the moisture coming out of the blowgun and on the surface of whatever I was blowing on. Not no more thanks to your valuable expertise&reccomendation. Many thanks bro, I truly appreciate it.  

I don't get to help to much in this section of forum which I don't understand,I helped a lot of DIY's at the autopaint stores.So I get excited when somebody is needing help on paint issues.Keep the questions coming,believe me you'll have more.Glad to help    WIEDER  

This is strange. When I went to pickup some more primer yesterday at the b-shop supply, I had the guy look at one of my handles that had a huge blister develop on it(everything else came out perfect), and the guy say's to me "you don't even need to prime your handles. Just ad promoter&base&clear. He said that is why your getting blisters, because of too much stuff(meaning primer). He said the primer is not necessary. I find that way too hard to belive. Just about every b-shop will prime. Now i'm getting confused.

Many thanks for all the help.  

He is talking about to much material,in your case you just need enough primer to get better adhesion.Did you sand the handles before primer?If so you really didn't have to use promotor but some painters feel they need to there's pro's and con's on this subject.   WIEDER  

I sanded off the all of the texture. I did not sand after promoter, but sanded smooth after primer.