I know this isn't the traditional place for 6 cylinder info but, does anybody know if you could put a cylinder head off of a 258 AMC jeep engine on a 232 Rambler engine. It is the same block but I am wondering if anything changed that would have altered pushrod clearance or things of that nature. I am thinking of rebuilding my 232 and want to be able to escape using lead additive in my gas.
It depends on the year of the block. In 1971 the block deck height was increased roughly 1/8" to allow for the longer stroke of the 258. As you noted, the head bolt pattern is the same from 1964 (first intor of modern AMC six) through the 2005 Jeep TJ 4.0L. There are some other differences over the years. The 258 is most likely a bridged rocker head instead of a shaft (shaft was used through 74 or 75). If you're using a bridged rocker head on the shorter deck Rambler block you'll have to check pushrod length. Well, you'd have to check even if it were a shaft rocker head. I think I'd go ahead and try the 232 pushrods. The 258 pushrods are definitely to long and will likely keep the valves open. If the 232 pushrods are to short they won't open the valves all the way, but the worse thing that will happen is one or more falls out while the engine is running. That's no big deal on the AMC six, the pushrods can't fall into the crankcase.
If you don't have a head already, look into getting a 91+ 4.0L head. You'd have to adapt the 4.0L exhaust manifold but your intake will fit. Unless you have a water heated intake cold weather performance will suffer though. You can use a 1981 or later AMC car or Jeep 258 intake as well. The exhaust manifolds can be made to fit from a 1981 or later, but you're better off with the tubular 4.0L exhaust. 87-90 fits better, but crack easy. Easy to get welded though! I had gussets welded in the cracked areas of mine to prevent recracking. Easy way to stop the cracking is to use an exhaust hanger off the firewall. Weight of exhaust is most of the reason they crack. I'm running a 4.6L AMC/Jeep six (4.0L w/258 crank and rods, bored 0.030" over) in a 63 Rambler wagon, EFI and all.
thanks for the info!