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sneck
New User
| Posts: 2
| Joined: 03/08
Posted: 03/23/08 10:32 AM
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I am putting together a 1965 Ford 289 for my 4 speed Comet for Street/Strip use. It has + 0.030 Hypereutectic Flat Top Speed-Pro TRW Pistons, Clevite Cam Shaft Duration Int 204 Ext 214 at .050, Valve lift Int .449 Ext .473, Rockers 1.6, 625 Road Demon carb, Ford Shelby aluminum high rise manifold, MSD ignition, Long tube hooker headers, TCI Rattler Harmonic Balancer and Ported and polished iron 1965 Ford heads with 1.6/2.02 chevy 327 valves. Valves and heads have machined to fit.
Will this combo work for Street/Strip?
What size push rods should I use?
Do I need a new distributor cam gear when I put this engine together? May distributor has very little running time from new.
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Posted: 03/24/08 05:19 AM
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On the pushrods, get yourself an adjustable pushrod and determine perfectly what length pushrod you need, then order a set from Comp (they have a wide selction of pushrod lengths).
As far as I can tell, the combo you've got should work just fine for the street.
On e the distributor gear, it depends on the cam gear. If the cam has a cast iron gear, use a stock type iron distributor gear. If you have a steel cam (like a roller) then you'll need a bronze gear. Comp has a new gear out that works with either type of cam gear, but I've hearf pros and cons on this, so I'd stick with a specific gear.
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TheBat63
Enthusiast
| Posts: 302
| Joined: 04/05
Posted: 04/03/08 09:25 PM
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Hardtop is right Valve train geometry is the key . The thing is nowadays they make valves for damn near the same price that have the correct geometry . But if you are careful and take your time it can be done.
Oh MSD sells a steel gear now as well that matches perfectly with the steel cam . Plus a bunch of the retrofit rollers have a Iron gear that has been put on a steel cam . Not sure how they do that but if you check the Comp Catalog for one they have them. Personally i would stay away from brass it can wear really quick in some cases.
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N1320feet
New User
| Posts: 5
| Joined: 04/08
Posted: 04/04/08 06:14 AM
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I have done this build.The chevy valve stems are shorter,from keeper 2 tip where the rocker arm rides.On mine I had crane energizer lifters and they rubbed on the retainer!The ford valves have longer heigth above the retainer.I wiped out 2 sets of retainers and almost dropped a valve.I do not recomend chevy valves! My build is a 66 289 11:1 pop ups lunati bracket master 11 292 dur 512 lift 512 lift I since went to Performer rpm heads .Mine spins 7500 rpms regularly shifted by a T-5 A514 geared 8.8 in a 1981 mercury Zephyr. best ET 13.9 with lots of gremlins hanging over me! See pics on this car soon on CC rides section for N1320feet
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