The quickest I've posted was 11.29 @ 121.8mph and that was without nitrous.  With spray, I'm sure it's capable of high 10s.  The car will only pass tech for a 12 sec ride.  Each time I've gone into the 11s I've been black flagged (because of no bar) and had to turn in my run card - essentially I'm done for the day.   

I don't think I'll ever put a bar in the car.  It's a numbers matching SS, and I can't bring myself to cut the car.  I still have every original part of the car which has been removed.  From the 283ci engine, M-20 trans, 10-bolt rear to the original wheels.

Bottom line, running 11s without a bar isn't the smartest thing I've ever done.  

Yes, I have been with in an area code of a Cobra, its called a car show. So what if I dont know what all came with a Cobra name, does it make you special because you do? I know Carol Shelby is the man responsible for it and they came with different engines, i believe from a 283-427. or something like that.  

"a 283-427. or something like that."

A 283?  Do yourself a favor...  Before you start to pontificate on a respectable message board, do some homework. 

blah,blah,blah.................  

The quickest I've posted was 11.29 @ 121.8mph and that was without nitrous.  With spray, I'm sure it's capable of high 10s.

I think your car is faster than high 10's on juice, my friends car runs 12's on the motor and 10.80's on juice. He has a 300hp NOS big shot. My guess is at least mid 10's if not low 10's. 

  The car will only pass tech for a 12 sec ride.  Each time I've gone into the 11s I've been black flagged (because of no bar) and had to turn in my run card - essentially I'm done for the day.   

I don't think I'll ever put a bar in the car. 

My friend put a carpet kit in his car, kept the original carpet, it was in great shape, had someone sew in some slots and velcro, and put in a bolt-in roll bar, that he would take out when not at the track, thats what the velcro was for, to cover the slots. Work out fine and did not ruin his interior.

 It's a numbers matching SS, and I can't bring myself to cut the car.  I still have every original part of the car which has been removed.  From the 283ci engine, M-20 trans, 10-bolt rear to the original wheels.

Bottom line, running 11s without a bar isn't the smartest thing I've ever done

You have a very nice car, would make a great sleeper. A friend had a sleeper 66 Chevelle with a 383 with mallory on the front counter wieghts so he could run a small 283 balancer and put a 2 barrel Holley 500cfm carb, with a nitrous unit. Poeple never took his car very serious, never had a problem with people letting him squeeze, raced it a lot against a lot of 5.0's. Never lost. He was racing 11 to 13 second cars. His car ran 10.50's on the bottle. lol, what a money maker.   

"respectable message board"

HA, HA, HA HAH HAH HAW HAW HE HEE HEE-HAW, That #### is funny.

Nine out of ten people are like car what? Magizine?  Just the "hot rod" guys know the book.  They don't  even sell it in my local Autozone, Advance auto ot NAPA stores and I am in Memphis!  So cut those damn Elvis pork chops, tell your coon dog to move out of the way and except the fact that you have to go spend 35 plus grand to get an N/A v-8 car that can "hang" with an import on the race track, not just the 1320, I mean road courses, slalom, and other events.  A prime example is the new GTO, great machine, expensive, but great machine.  It is not faster  than a vette of the same vintage, but it is proven and documented that is handles better, that's why GM went with the GTO Drift Team and not the Vette Drift Team.  There is more to racing thant going in a straght line.  Most of older Muscle cars handles like ass all of you know that.  Imports are great little machines, come on please, lighten-up a little, this not specifically to JCharlieM, it is to EVERYONE hating on cars othr than American. 

Listen stupid, like i said, i dont really care for the car, i dont pay attention to it, but i dont think it just came with 427, it had smaller displacement option too. On top of that, i dont really care for fords. so do your self a favor and quite acting like you just know everything.

If you dont think its a respectable message board, why are you on here? My local advanced auto sells carcraft, so does walmart and country mart. I dont like autozone so i dont know about them, but o'reillys doesn't sell any mags. Im in Kansas.  

The car may very well be capable of times quicker than high-10s.  But I realize that the total set-up is only as good as the weakest link - and I think that may be the Muncie transmission.  When I first installed the nitrous system I used 200hp pills.  Took it out and banged some gears very hard.  When I returned home, I realized I had cracked the M-22 case.  Since then, I've reduced the pills to a 125hp shot.  I'm not going to risk fragging another M-22 case (too expensive). 

I've seen some very clean installations of bars.  But, the fact is to install one properly and by spec you'll cut the car.  I won't do that to this car.

One clarification, then I'll drop out of this thread.  It was a 289 and 427.  The 283 was a Chevy mill, not Ford.

* BTW, I don't claim to know everything.  I just posts on topics that I have knowledge of, and try to correct posts that are inaccurate.  There's enough mis-information on the internet, no need to add to it.  Unlike a few, I will not post on a topic if I can't provide accurate information.

Your in Kansas?  Cool, how about you and Toto have a pudding pop and STFU.  Wait, I sad I was done arguing on this board,  if anything, I keep my word.  Later..... 

The car may very well be capable of times quicker than high-10s.  But I realize that the total set-up is only as good as the weakest link - and I think that may be the Muncie transmission.  When I first installed the nitrous system I used 200hp pills.  Took it out and banged some gears very hard.  When I returned home, I realized I had cracked the M-22 case.  Since then, I've reduced the pills to a 125hp shot.  I'm not going to risk fragging another M-22 case (too expensive). 

They sell new cases now, I think they are around $250 and are stronger, used cases are $125 to 150. I don't think there is a difference between an M21 case and an M22 case. A friend of mine just put those gears from Italy in his M20 and turn it into an M22. He had a shop do it and it cost him around 600 for the gears and 1100 total, I don't know if he put liberty sliders in or not. I tend to like Super T10's. There is a lot more gear choices so you don't have to run such steep gears as with a close ratio Muncie, and parts are easier to find used and at good prices.

I've seen some very clean installations of bars.  But, the fact is to install one properly and by spec you'll cut the car.  I won't do that to this car

That is what I use to think also. My friend welded plates with nuts welded on to the plates to the bottom of his car. The rug hid the holes, and when it was time to go to the track, he would pull the velcro up and bolt in his roll bar in all five points. Look good and completely legal as per NHRA rule book on roll bar installations. His car had a full interior as yours and was completely restored. He would remove the two speakers in the back and the roll bar went through those holes into the plates in the trunk. The main hoop was one piece, the rear bars bolted to the hoop, and it only had drivers side bar, so the hardest part was putting the main hoop in and out.

4.10 ROLL BARS

All roll bars must be within 6-inches (15.2 cm) of the rear, or side, of the driver's head, extend in height at least 3-inches (7.6 cm) above the driver's helmet with driver in normal driving position, and be at least as wide as the driver's shoulders or within 1-inch (2.5 cm) of the driver's door. Roll bar must be adequately supported or cross-braced to prevent forward or lateral collapse of roll bar. Rear braces must be of the same diameter and wall thickness as the roll bar and intersect with the roll bar at a point not more than 5-inches (12.7 cm) from the top of the roll bar. Sidebar must be included on driver's side. The side bar must pass the driver at a point midway between the shoulder and elbow. All vehicles with OEM frame must have roll bar attached to frame; installation of frame connectors on unibody cars does not constitute a frame and therefore it is not necessary to have the roll bar attached to the frame. Unibody cars with stock floor and firewall (wheel tubs permitted) may attach roll bar with 6-inch (15.2 cm) x 6-inch (15.2 cm) x .125-inch (3.2 mm) steel plates on top and bottom of floor bolted together with at least four 3/8-inch (9.53 mm) bolts and nuts, or weld main hoop to rocker sill area with .125-inch (3.2 mm) reinforcing plates. All 4130 chrome moly welding must be done by approved TIG Heliarc process; mild steel (or ST51) welding must be approved MIG wire feed or approved TIG heliarc process. Welding must be free of slag and porosity. Any grinding of welds prohibited. See illustration (Drawing 12).

Roll bar must be padded anywhere driver's helmet may contact it while in driving position. Adequate padding must have minimum 1/4-inch (6.35 mm) compression or meet SFI Spec 45.1.

Hey Invadr, not to be picky, but a NOS Big Shot system is a 350hp system with one plate, and a 400hp system with two plates. I should know cause I have one. I won't be doing the PGD's this year and since they hand pic a group of guys to do it I doubt that I will ever do the PGD's. I built my car to be a street car that will see some strip time. To tell you the truth if I do deside to enter the PGD's I'll build a 4th gereration F-body, I've pretty much set the car up on paper. But for now I just want to finish my '71 Camaro. I got my buddy that works for Ron Davis Radiators building me an aluminum fan shroud that will house two 16" fans and that should be done tonight. As for now I'm doing the body work which takes a little time, since my car is going to be a show car to. And I don't have to race anyone, I'll just post my time slip, when the car is done. If you run faster than me then you can beat me, and if you run slower than me then I'll beat you. The fact is I'll definately be in the low 9's with the juice.

Also what car do you have, I see you saying a lot about your friends car but what about yours. Give me a low down.

Also a couple of quick questions,
What is  "mallory on the front counter wieghts"?

And do you really expect me to believe his car ran 10.50's with a 500cfm 2 barrel carb? And how big of a nitrous shot was he using?

I'm not sure where your at in Kansas but be proud of it.  Skip the g-tech If your in western Ks there are a few tracks Great Bend has been known for hosting some of the first ever official drag races, and national events.  If you are in eastern Kansas I would check out the eighth in ogden It is between Manhattan and JC lots of fun real old school bleachers and all.  You will get more opertunity to run than you will in Topeka, costs less and the people are down to earth.  It's a blast.  Don't feel bad if a jr dragster takes you though it's all about consistancy so the slow vehicles often winn even some pickup trucks.  Once you run a little quicker you can skip the trophie chasing and go for the cash.  It's a great place to start.  By the way ten years ago when I was there there was only one import though I am sure things have changed by now. 

As a side note you really shouldn't call people stupid because they do not share your opinion, we can all learn allot from one another.  I noticed there was no clarification on which Shelby Cobra.  I personally don't care for the AC Roadster model but that coupe that followed rocked, I would even trade my Chevelle for one if some very wealthy person wanted to screw themselfe over.

Hey Invadr, not to be picky, but a NOS Big Shot system is a 350hp system with one plate, and a 400hp system with two plates. I should know cause I have one.

I don't know what unit you have or if it is an older unit, but this one was adjustable:

 
NITROUS OXIDE SYSTEMS

Plate/Carb Systems
Big Shot^TM Single-Stage
Nitrous Systems
200-400 HP* (ADJUSTABLE)

Big Shot^TM Dual-Stage
Nitrous Systems
200-400 HP (ADJUSTABLE)

Extreme Race Plates

Double Cross Plate Systems
250-500 HP (ADJUSTABLE)

I won't be doing the PGD's this year and since they hand pic a group of guys to do it I doubt that I will ever do the PGD's.

You should go anyways. My car don't run on pump gas but I will still be there with it. I would like to see your car in action. Would be fun to race.

I built my car to be a street car that will see some strip time. To tell you the truth if I do deside to enter the PGD's I'll build a 4th gereration F-body, I've pretty much set the car up on paper. But for now I just want to finish my '71 Camaro. I got my buddy that works for Ron Davis Radiators building me an aluminum fan shroud that will house two 16" fans and that should be done tonight. As for now I'm doing the body work which takes a little time, since my car is going to be a show car to. And I don't have to race anyone, I'll just post my time slip, when the car is done. If you run faster than me then you can beat me, and if you run slower than me then I'll beat you. The fact is I'll definately be in the low 9's with the juice.

Post it when your done, I would never post mine.

Also what car do you have, I see you saying a lot about your friends car but what about yours. Give me a low down.

I don't talk about my car, it's just a street race car that I race a lot, it is not fast, and it aint no disapointment either. Sorry that I'm dodging the question, but you understand. 

Also a couple of quick questions,
What is "mallory on the front counter wieghts"?

When you internal balance an externally balance motor you need heavy metal called mallory put in the counter weights, it can cost as much as 600 dollars, so if you only do the front counter weight, it cost you around 300 dollars and you can run a 400 flexplate with a small 238-327 balancer to make it look like a smaller motor, and not run the 400 balancer that has that noticable notch in it to make it look different than the other small block balancers.

And do you really expect me to believe his car ran 10.50's with a 500cfm 2 barrel carb?

That's the point, nobody would believe it, but it ran what it ran. NASCAR has used these 2 barrells for years in motors making over 400 horsepower. Add a 250 to 300 unit and you have plenty to get you in the 10's

 And how big of a nitrous shot was he using?

He had an air cleaner unit and a plate unit. Nobody notice the air cleaner unit. I guess it help that when he would pull the base and the element and top, up and over as a complete set up, and nobody notice the lines covered in black hose, when he was proving it was a 2 barrel. He never pulled it off, just out of the way. I don't know how big the unit was, he would not tell anybody that, but I figure the air cleaner unit was around 75 horse and the plate was at least 200 horse, could have been more.