So much for insults...  

366 and 427 tall deck are internal balance the same as 396 and 427 pass.I have to comment on the cute fart canners,Initial vehicle weight 2500lbs 6" monster tach- 8" fart muff 4-12's w/3 lb magnets 6 monitors................    do they have stroker kits for the added weight? Having to much fun here,I agree as most people know that some import brands are in some areas more efficently designed I don't argue that.Most kids can't afford to pump one up because they're paying $200 a month insurance so what I run across on the street looking for a short race is fart cans and monster tachs. :      WIEDER  

I've built the 525, and have it sitting in my garage.  

The build-up is detailed at http://forums.corvetteforum.com/showthread.php?t=1964495&highlight=525+bbc  

Many thanks for the balance info! Been down this road before, and it's a real kick to the beans to rip out a freshly installed tranny after you figure out you got the wrong flywheel.
About the same time the balance info was posted here, the moderator on the Mcleod Clutch forum gave the part numbers for the 12" clutch, the pressure plate, and the flywheel. Here's the link to the thread if you need those numbers http://www.mcleodind.com/forum/showthread.php?t=455



Vehicle: 1994 Chevy Silverado 2500 4X4 extended cab long box

Engine: 1990 Chevy 366 Tall Block from a school bus.

Trans: Chevy P/U truck 5 spd. from early '90s 1500 4X4

No mods in mind, emphasis on keeping all the oe electronics, especially the computer on the 366. Trying to mimick the bus setup.

The goal here is to build a cheap, capable towing machine. I'll post updates if anyone's interested.  

Just ordered the exhaust manifolds, and still working on getting prepped for the swap. Waiting on engine mounts, and still investigating clutch setups.

Any opinions on Zoom clutches? Here's what I am looking at, http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=ZZZ%2D30014&view=16383&N=700+4294908216+4294865886+4294860743+4294908178
More to come.  

I have a question to add here, how much HP and Torque do you think a 366 with a Holley Double Pumper and headers could make? I'm wanting to use it to make a mud buggy and wondered if I'm wasting my time or not?  

Wasting your time? Of course you are!

We don't even need to look into benchracing theories of bore to stroke ratios, just look at the final displacement...

We aren't dealing with heavily restricted engines here because we know that even with near-stock heads a 454 can easily make 1+ horsepower per cubic inch, so do some grade school arithmetic. Let's say that the 366 can make 1.15 horses per cube, so that's approximately 420 horsepower. Now, let's make only 1 horse per cube with a 454 and make make 450+ horsepower.

Sure the smaller engine will have the potential to make more specific output to a certain extent but eventually the induction will be limited by the physical size of the cylinder it has to fill and besides with near-stock motors we will never push these limits so I suggest getting a larger engine.  

bbc stuff...i just gotta give my 02...


the 366td is only good for its crank and rods...throw the rest in the garbage...

the 427td IS conducive to a performance build..only if you take into consideration the .400 deck height and the pain you might/will have with header fitment...especially if you go with aftermarket heads that feature raised exhaust ports (+.600 is average)..IMHO if you are going to go all out (with a bbc) DO NOT purchase std exh port location heads anyways as you are leaving HP/TQ on the table..all dpends on your hp goals...??why build a bbc and spend $$ if its gonna go 550hp...unless you go "poor boy" style...then thats attractive

anyways back to block talk,

4.375 is the largest you can fit without alot of grinding and camshaft to rod bolt issues..i am not saying you cannot fit larger just a point of diminishing returns ( a long stroke 525 is appealling...but the piston speeds climb real fast,thus limiting performance use to a truck.preferably with dual rear wheels (lol).

correct.you cannot bore to 4.5.dont waste you time and money with a sonic check...might go to .125 if core shift is at minimum...have you ever gotten a price on a +.125 overbore job?big big bux when done right...

the most feasable/easy combo would be a 496ci/+.250 rod.Or a 505/511.again this is with 4.25 stroke.4.350 bore (+.100 over)4.375 stroke (+.375 from 454 based 4.00) =520 cubes.then ya gotta think?all that weight swinging around for an extra 26 cubes...

throw that 3.76(366/427) crank in a used 502 (std 4.470),cleaned to 4.500 or 4.530...big /easy Hp numbers when cammed correctly...will go to 650 hp easy on ported 990s and a 264 @.050 roller camshaft(if thats you style/needs)
"cubic inches are king...but RPM makes the world go round"


later guys

alan

ottawa ontario canada

ps:sorry for long post!  

to naughty dodge04

yeah im reading and totally agree...the japanese make some great HP numbers.short stroke, lightweight parts very efficient heads/ports(a honda head goes 300cfm easy)and large valve/curtain areas per /cubic inch.

8hp/cubic (yes 8!)  is where we are at(maximum limits) in the american drag racing(turbos) market right now...    

I am new to this forum and I need a couple of questions answered.  Are the 366T and 427T blocks the same casting? I mean, can you make a 427 out of a 366 with larger bore and stroke?  I have a carburated 366 out of a 72-74 C60 and wonder if it is worth doing anything with.  Appreciate any and all replies.  Thanks.  Ken  

One item of information I didn't see mentioned is that the unmolested old school tall deck block has the same size rods as any big block, it just has to swing a super heavy, cast, extra tall 4 ring piston. Inertia was the only reason these creatures worked well in heavy trucks. They normal have a #6223 3.76 427 severe duty crank in them, I have several of the 427 cranks left that are perfect. They were first built as a means for GM to support off-shore racing, with something to build upon, that's why many of the blocks were or are marked "MARINE". GM had to build so many of them to place them into production in the late 60's, they were in everything from dump trucks, trash trucks, even semi-tractor trucks. Some of you might recognize the name Joe Mondello (Olds Guru), he raced them in off-shore racing with home made stroker cranks from raw GM 4.0 forgings, which were welded and off-set ground for the stroke because there were no means for stroker cranks back in the day other tham making one. Hank-The-Crank out of California was the man on creating a crank at the time. Rods were a treat to find, since the tall deck supported .400 extra deck height and normal length rods. To shorten the story some, today we can order the 518/525/528/535 kit from Eagle that is a complete rotating assembly ready to install. Aftermarket production (Dart, Merlin, etc.) is the best choice as they support big bore, but once upon a time these 427 CID blocks ruled the big cube range because they were all we had. I have several in my garage and have built many. If your core shift is good at cast and you have it sonic tested for wall thickness, you could partial fill the block for support, place a 4.5 stroke crank, bore it .125" and have a 541 inch for about $2500.00-2800.00 vs the 4000.00-4500.00 it might take to get an aftermarket shortblock 540. The pistons have to be custom made usually for .125, so it is expensive, why not go with the .100 overbore for the 535 inch kit from Eagle also? same price in the 30-60-70-or.100 overbore. Don't let anyone tell you they will not pull because I have taken them well into the 8-9K RPM zone were the big inch battle action truly is for full race. Now if you are running it on the sreet, use a 9.8 with a 4.25 or 4.375 stroke and enjoy instant off-idle power and a better rod to stroke ratio for street use. The tall deck does not push against the trust side of the cylinder walls as much due to the long stroke and geometry advantage gained from the tall deck, so it does have advantages if you want to build a big inch cheap major torque monster. Remember, even torque monsters can reach high RPM with enough money. Stay with a smaller CC head, such as a 320CC to keep the torque advantage with nice port work they can support this 525 inch. I did build a 550 CID with a 4.625 (4-5/8") stroke several years back. That is a tight space as the 427 case is not factory cast with the room to accomodate even a 4.0 inch 454 crank normally. If you do any work yourself, remember all areas must be checked for crank, rod, piston clearance, that's why it's better to get the kit, they help with this issue some. Another thing to remember is if you stroke something .050 inch, it will need .100 clearance on the other side of the stroke. Make sure you have around .060 clearance on everything rotating vs. the block. Watch out for the oil galley down below, that's a good reason the aftermark blocks moved it up by the cam. I punch into it when I did the 4-5/8" stroke but we pressed a valve sleeve in there for repair if I remember back that far... Enjoy the power of this cheap junk yard block my friend, I called them the Mark IV Magic blocks. Watch me disappear!  

I have an old farm truck with a 366 in it. I was looking at getting a four barrel manifold for it and getting rid of the govner 2 barrel set up. I have to do it on the cheap, but no one around where I am at deals in anything. I have calle several places and asked for 427 truck engines and just have had no luck. Any good web sites?  

You should be able to conjur up an old 9.8" deck (normal) big block chevy manifold for use on that. You will have to use the spacer plates between the heads and the intake, they are 3/8" or .400" how ever you look at it. I can't remember how much they cost but many performance parts sources will have that head-to-manifold spacer you will need. They come in oval port (what you should have) and retangular both. It is kind of hard to find those original manifolds because most people took them off and used them for a boat anchor or something. If you want to try to find an original manifold to work on that, try a truck parts source, especially one which has older commercial trucks. I think that would be cheaper in the end because I cannot remember if those had a normal length distributor or a taller one. I am thinking for some reason they were normal length and the intake was cast lower in that area to keep it correct. If you change the intake and add spacers and it is a normal length distributor it will come up .400" short. Happy hunting.  

weiand makes the spacer plates...

search the site here...there are other posts about the talldeck bbcs  

you stuffed a 4.625 crank in a standard block????

non raised cam??? (+.400)

i find this hard to believe??what brand rod were you using..