I just got an 76 olds 455 with an engine stand for $100. The bad news is the engine didn't come with heads, intake, or a carb. What should I do with it?

1) Put new rings and bearings in it, with stock iron heads and a preformer intake with a used holly carb.

or

2) bore it 30 over with flat top pistons and edelbrock heads, torker intake and a holly carb. If I go this way I think I would have a compression ration of 10 to 1 can I run pump gas and what size cam should I get?

If you can afford option 2...GO FOR IT!!!

As far as the cam, it will depend on how you drive it, and the rest of your setup...probably best to call a manufacturer to get the best performance you can.  But from what I've seen/heard, something with around 244 degrees duration @ .050 tends to offer great power without too much sacrafice on idle vacuum.

 You can get good performance by doing certian things that will make this into a respectable engine without going broke.  It doesn't have to be feast or famine.  While aluminum heads might be nice to have, they are expensive, and really are not a must for a perfomance application.  That block is one of the last casting runs for the 455 which means it really doesn't have the high nickel content that some of the older ones did.  That doesn't mean it's junk.  It means that care should be taken to reinforce the lower end to take performance mods.  While main studs are a good idea on the older engines, I would go as far as to say they are mandatory for the '76 block.  I would include main straps too.  It shouldn't need a girdle unless you are going to thrash it with nox or some other HP enhancer.  Where studs were more of a option on the older blocks, I would say that your money would be well spent on bottom end reinforcements on this one.

I would recommend that you find a set of large valve "C" casting heads and have them rebuilt.  Even with hardened seats, and new guides you can pretty much depend on them being half the cost of the Edelbrock heads.  They will give you good solid reliable performance as well.  You may want to install stiffer springs depending on your cam choice, but your machinest can help you with that.

Probably the biggest thing you can do to improve performance and economy is to put in higher compression pistons.  The smog pistons are probably dished, and are not worth the powder to blow them to...well you know.  Your analysis that you will end up with about 10:1 compression is about right given todays compound head sets.  Even after retorking the bolts, it isn't going to make that much difference.  Can you run pump gas on 10:1?  Yes - have done it and do it with my Cutlass that is around that ratio as well.  I will state for the record that you have to run high test gas in your car, but you are building a big block with flat head pistons.  The increased compression just requires it.  As far as economy goes, you aren't going to get excellent mileage.  If you get 15 mpg on the road you will be doing good.

Let us know what you come up with.  Done right you will end up with a good mill.  Bowser

Thanks for the help

A couple of questions still, I would like to get 1 horsepower per cubic inch, is that a realstic goal? With the studs is everything able to handle it?

Do you know of a good place to find C heads?

With Iron heads and flat top pistons, what can I do to make it run pump gas?

You shouldn't have a problem at all making 1hp per cube. The TRW pistons have 18cc dishes in them, which is much better than the 32cc dishes that you have now. But, make sure you 0 deck the block. This with a Fel-Pro gasket (4.25" x .04" will give you 9.8:1 compression. I would recommend an Engle cam with 274/280 duration 230/236 @ .050 lift. This cam will give you 15 inches of vacuum at 750rpm. This combo with the C heads is what I have and it runs 11's in a 3630lbs car on pump gas. That equates to about 475hp at the crank. BTW, that cam is smaller than the stock W-30 cam.

AFA the studs and straps that Bowser was talking about, I use them on my combo. They are good up to about 550hp. After that I would go with billet caps. The 76 block is very near the same strength as the earlier ones. Unless your looking to make 700-800+ hp I wouldn't worry about it.

thanks for the help

I have heard that the olds oiling system is weak, are their any easy ways to help this problem

The main problem with them is the drainback in the heads when reving above 5000rpm. You can usually see casting flash in the drainback holes, so you want to grind it out. You also want to open those holes up a bit, contour, shape and polish the area.  Usually you don't need to rev an Olds any higher than 5200 or so unless your running 9's and 10's. I shift at 5200 and run 11's. So if you want to run faster you might think about drilling and tapping holes in the front and back of the heads (where the oil collects) and use fittings and a 1/2" or bigger line directly to the oil pan. This helps windage as well. Some people restrict the main bearings going to the cam bearings and also use restricted pushrods but, I don't think that is the right thing to do. Like I said, the problem is with drainback, not "pumping to much oil to the top of the engine" like most people believe.

1st and 2nd paragraphs r good  but I would go with the smog pistons and put a supercharger on it. Very reliable and easy power.  

Superchargers are fun - especially on an Olds.  I did some research on actual roots blower type supercharger setups for Olds big blocks and to tell you the truth, you have to have a fair chunk of change laying around in order to just get the hardware (blower and intake).  After that you have to piece the pully systems and linkage together.  Somewhat daunting.  I have talked to people who have tried to bankroll this activity and the reports weren't good.  There are a few nitch companys out there that do make custom "kits", but again, you are paying for their specialized knowledge.

I hazard to guess that someone will respond by saying that "Nobody said carcrafting was cheap" and I wouldn't disagree.  It all depends on how much you have to spend.  One of the premade "kits" was running about $5,500 plus shipping.  This doesn't include the lower end modifications to the block that I would consider necessary for reliable performance. 

If you got it to spend - then knock yourself out.  If you don't, then raising the compression ratio and choosing a good high performance cam and valve train not only is going to cost less, it's going to give excellent performance.

Just a thought - Bowser

I hear that! Wow, perhaps a backyard tailpipe turbo setup could help you.  

after finding some more info i found a hampton blower kit (supposedly EVERY thing needed) for $3700 with out shipping like bowser said i will build mine n/a and then spray a 150-175 shot on my existing plate system   1 cheaper 2 already own 3 easier maint 4 INSTANT power if you need it use it if not dont  5 hidden (i double dog dare you to hide that roots blower) 6 should make about the same power whan all is said and done  7 i work for a living and want a realistic project        when the throttle drops the bull *** stops

thanks for the help

The blower idea seems fun but more expense than I would like to go. Same goes for the tubro. If I make 450 horse NA would the engine handel a 75-125 shot of no2 without expensive work on the block?

Thanks again

bowser is deffinatly the man on olds but i have a rocket 350 with a good rebuild on it it has a comp 496/520 cam rpm intake msd ing forged pistons 9.6:1 comp and the usual other stuff i run a 175 shot with no problems so far and love it it may seem like a small hit but it is very noticeable when it sprays(i have mine set to activate as soon as i shift to second gear) find a good machine shop and a great engine guy follow some sound advice(bowser csirock anolog455)and let it rip. make sure you use forged pistons apr rod bolts good main caps and do it right the first time (i learned the hard expensive way).dmr makes main straps girdels and a few other goodies  for the olds bottom end  so make sure to check him out  from what i understand the 455 i will be building this spring will be on the very end of the hp vs reliability scale with a 175 shot so i will probably lower the n2o hit

Let me know how it turns out. I thought you had a engine in good stock condition already. Even in stock condition and 5psi of boost a stock good condition bottom end would work for you. I am figuring you just want a street car to have fun with from time to time. Oh yea, keep your recipes, we want to know how much this project cost you.   

i have  a 350 with n2o right now in my 71 cutlass it has the cam intake and other bolt ons. the 455/500(stroker crank) will be built this spring the 350 was built before i acuired the 425 block otherwise that wuold have been built instead. the 350 cost about 3-3500 to build i used sealed power forged pistons and rings, a comp cam, the stock heads were ported a performer rpm intake, edelbrock 750 carb,full msd ignition  i found a good crank locally that was turned 10/10 after i got it  arp products were used exclusivly the rods were fluxed and were fine   i belive the bbo wont cost too much more to build if i have patience and shop around for quality used parts ie intake valve covers i will use a holley 850 i have on the shelf with the headders a friend swaped me for some sbc stuff i had laying around. the blower would almost double the cost to build it so in my opinion its not worth it for my needs  the d miller stroker kit is $3400 i have B heads that i will have ported the cam should be about $100-$150 the intake shouldnt be more than $175 or i will buy a new one machine work will be about $500 out the door the gasket kit is about $65(everything) the bottom end reinforcement will be about $1000  so every thing should be done for about 51/2 grand give or take a few hundred 6 tops