I have a 1964 lwb chevy truck that has a 2 bolt 350 in it with a 350 turbo transmission, I want to completely rebuild the motor except for the vortec heads and the holley 650 carb I allready have. I plan on running a 150hp nitrous set up on it. What else do I need to make this motor strong enough to run with nitrous and get as much horse power out of it as possible?  

Build a 383 forged rotating assy.ARP fastners upgrade vortecs w/screw in studs etc.dualpattern cam to help exhaust ports Int. duration appox. 218-224 @ .050 & exh. with a few more degrees 110 lobe sep. for strong midrange or 114 area for better vacuum, RPM intake 750 carb 1-5/8 headers.I have a 67 lwb w/put together 427 big-block w/xtreme custom 230 single pattern solid flat 114 lobe sep. and merlin 269cc heads 2500rpm stall 4:56 gears tried alot off & on since 1979 (MY POINT! you might ask) don't overcam lean towards cu's and hi-flow heads. no expert just trial&error experience. deduct lash its really 222 degrees AFR 180 or 195's would be much stronger for this or a 350  

What brand cam would you recomend? Should I upgrade to aluminum heads?  

Cam makers with the latest tech equipment for example; Crane Z cam, Lunati Voodoo,Comp cam Xtreme. Older tech cams had lazy lobes compared to todays cams faster ramps on intake lobes draws in more air at faster rate I saw where Lunati has slower closing ramp for less stress on valve train perfomance drawbacks? don't know. Any three would give you latest tech Get a very complete kit springs retainers recommended roller rockers etc.Call their tech lines Recommend machine shop to also install valvetrain and degree in, there's always little issues. Any alloy head is easier to repair than iron also pick ups could always use less weight up front.Raised exhaust ports like on AFR heads need single pattern cams,if exh. can flow 70-80 % of intake use single Edelbrock Brodix AFR Canfield TrickFlow just like cams heads benefit from lastest tech like anything else take advantage Update me on progress WIEDER  

Forgot about intake size shoot for 170-180cc you want the smallest port with the most cfm.Look for good cfm at lower  valve lifts,that will help your bottom torque WIEDER  

When I consider cylinder heads I think of valve angle, valve size, port volume, and manufacturer reputation. Of course there are many other variables involved but as the average customer a lot of them aren't at your disposal. If you feel the need to look at flow numbers remember the 85/65 rule. Try for the most mass flow at 85% of peak valve lift (remember to think of dynamic lift)for the intake port and 65% on the exhaust side. Remember, the exhaust port is doing the most work during the blowdown cycle. I like to think of the most effective intake filling being done in the 'upper-midrage' valve lifts. Not to pick a fight but low-lift flow usually hurt low-range and help an engine hold on to its camshaft slightly longer with maybe some slight upper rpm gains.

It doesn't take a lot to get big flow numbers on a flowbench but this is completely different than horsepower. In so many cases there will be another cylinder head of around the same specifications but several hundred dollars cheaper and flows just the same if not more than a name brand that will be down 10-30 horsepower from that reputable brand name. In many cases you get what you pay for...  

Car Craft can explain how important low lift is. Type in (valve angle parts list) . By the way i took no offense to your comments this is how we all learn.Read article & let me know your take on it. WIEDER  

Do you think my 650 holley vaccume secondary will work if i re-jet it?  

Might limit top end,hook up vacuum gauge sneak it in to your truck if vacuum drops down close to 1 inch your okay if not try to borrow a bigger carb 750 area your engine is wanting more air if vacuum is above 1 inch. With nos your trans. better be built w/stronger hard parts and better clutch material.Good quality converter appox. 2500 flash stall stay well below 3000rpm with 3:73 or 4:10's WIEDER  

i have 3:73s in a 10 bolt rear end but I realt want limited slip or a positrack. What do you think the max rpm I can twist with the set-up you mentioned and my carb?  

Just to clarify some things that vacuum better be on a manifold vacuum source and you better have 1-2" at wide-open throttle. 13-14" at idle...

More than likely this engine will have plenty of vacuum at wide-open throttle (1.5-2"). It is a mild build and probably won't mind it as much as something that needs more airflow capacity. Also, switching from a 650 to 750 won't change the vacuum reading @ WOT because with Holley carbs this usually does not represent a change in venturi or throttle bore diameter, usually just an improvement in airflow around the top of the carb. This airflow improvement is obviously good for making horsepower but you won't see it on a vacuum gauge as the physical size of the restriction won't have changed...  

About 5500rpm shift at 5800 because it will help to get you towards your power range on the next upshift. Install air bags appox. 5 lbs for left rear and enough to just start lifting the right rear 20-30 cant remember on my last 1/4 mile run way back.Vacuum carbs will only give whatever the engine needs so a 750 will make sure it won't starve.If you have a 1/2 ton w/ a 8.5 ring gear your clutch or locker type selection is good highly recommend upgrading axles etc.This combo w/150 nos will be close to 600hp ,nos will make you spend more for stronger parts Geddy up! WIEDER