i know this is a car forum kinda but i realy need hep with this tranny. can anyone help me?

ok so i bought a 98 chevy k15 2 weeks ago. it has a 350,4l60e and a 10 inch lift and 37" tires when i first drove it hom it got really hot , so i did some research and bought one of those transco shift kit and stalled every thing and except one modified valve that i couldent get to (the vavle that pushes on the band) anyway i though it was good so it worked fine.. until i had to make a 300 mile trip with 30 miles of the trip left it got really hot and blew atf past the pan and so i let it cool added some lucas trannie fix and some more atf and it was terrible at shifting so i drained that and put straight atf in it has improved but will shift really hard from first to second sometimes and driving around it still looks like its getting hot. can anyone hep me?  

A shift kit will not fix a damaged transmission.  Whatever the problem was, still exists.  Choices are a blocked line to the trans cooler (either inside the radiator or the external unit if your truck came with one)...bad fluid or filter...bad torque converter...or something inside the transmission.  

Was there a lot of gunk in the bottom of the pan when you installed the shift kit?  How many miles on the truck?

Also, how are you monitoring transmission temperature?  Did you or the previous owner install a trans temp guage?  

well when i pulled the pan there was a little gunk in there some tar like stuff with a little bit of aluminum shavings in it, the truck has 139,000 but the guy i bought it from told me the tranny was new and had 800 miles on it and by looking at it its alot cleaner than the rest of the undercarriage and no i havent installed a transmission temp gauge, what would you do because i have already drilled some ports that the shift kit had me do.should i try to get this fixed on whatever the problem is ? or get a new tranny.
p.s when im driving it it likes to shift down alot if i give it some gas and 2nd gear fells "tight" as i would call it.  

I'd say you were either lied to...or they bought a used transmission to replace it.  With only 800 miles there shouldn't be much, if any, gunk in the bottom of the pan.  That stuff is the friction material on the clutch packs.  It should be there on a used transmission (though not in bulk).

There should not be ANY aluminum shavings in the pan.  Thats a very bad sign.

Your shift kit won't hurt anything...but it certainly won't fix whatever the problem was.  

I've rebuilt one transmission...a 200-4R which is NOT computer controlled like yours.  After that experience and given your transmission is more complicated...I'd take it to a professional I trusted.  

CS is right buddy,ur in a heap with that.The harder shifts are due to the mods u made on installing the kit,which raises fluid pressure on the bands,as well as  flowrates,but it sounds like the converter is not locking up,causing the big heat issue.In lockup stage,the TF is all directed from the converter to the friction plates in a wash method to cool them. O.D. creates MASSIVE heat in an A.T. No lockup,no cooldown.  

well thank you guys, you helped me alot so im just going to go to the local junk yard and buy a used 4l60e for about $500 instead of a used one for 2000 thanks.

but on the other hand my dad has a 700r4 2wd out of a old cop car we aquired it lokked pretty beefy, if i got a kickdown cable and lines for the vacuum modulator could i run it? wold it be a good tranny? if i pulled the 2wd tailshaft off could i bolt up my new process t-case?  

ok guys im in a dilemma right now and i dont know what to do so... im getting a reubilt tranny thats stock, and its going to run about 2000.00 well to make a long story short i found out i DO have the corvette servo in it because it doesnt look like the stock one.. BUT when i rebuilt kit the shift kit had me grind little notches in the steel plate in there to "drain fluid faster" so is it bad to put that one modded part in with the rest of it stock...well the new one doesnt come with a corvette servo so.. is it worth it to swap it or leave the stock one in the new one.  

If it were me...I'd leave it stock for a while...just to make sure everything works correctly.  Once you've established a baseline for its normal shifting pattern...THEN start modifying it.  That way there is no question what is causing irregularities if they occur.  

If the thing doesn't shift right when you get it...last thing you want is the shop to tell you its because of your servo...  

Never worked on a 4L60,so not sure were you should go from here.What I do know is when you install a vette servo in a 700R4 it maximizes operating pressure full time,which is what the tow/haul button does           electrically,when activated on the newer models with the 4l80/4l90. The vette 700R4 cases were factory modified to flow more 4 that pressure.To what I do know there were not a lot of case alterations made from the 700R4 to the 4L60 so you might look into that.If they are compatible the 700 mods are farely simple,just gotta take ur time.Then you would have a worthy trany.  

Never worked on a 4L60,so not sure were you should go from here.What I do know is when you install a vette servo in a 700R4 it maximizes operating pressure full time,which is what the tow/haul button does           electrically,when activated on the newer models with the 4l80/4l90. The vette 700R4 cases were factory modified to flow more 4 that pressure.To what I do know there were not a lot of case alterations made from the 700R4 to the 4L60 so you might look into that.If they are compatible the 700 mods are farely simple,just gotta take ur time.Then you would have a worthy trany.