I'm in Delaware County, PA (just outside of Philly).  The guy I used charged $200 for a little more than 2 hours of work plus the cost of carb gaskets and jets. He cut me a small break because a lot of his customers are in the same club as me.  I've heard average is about $250 plus parts. In the end, I gained 20 hp and 20 lb-ft of torque just by this tuning.  I still think my rwhp is a little low, which is why I'm looking into swapping some parts.  

You said you have an Edelbrock Performer series intake manifold. That may be part of your problem. Your intake doesn't have enough flow for your camshaft. If you have a Summit magazine handy look through the Edelbrock parts. Edelbrock designs their Performer Series parts to go with Performer series. With that camshaft you may want to upgrade to a Performer RPM intake. You are running with an intake designed for a cam that has .420 lift intake, a .442 lift exhuast, with 204 duration intake @.050, and 214 duration exhuast@.050. If you change to the  Performer RPM, which is better designed for a cam with 234 intake duration at .050, 244 exhaust duration at .050, with a .488 intake lift, and a .510 exhaust lift, you'll see some better numbers HP wise. Why? Well you have an intake that is considered to be a stock OEM replacement. It is best suited to off idle-5500 RPM powerband. You have a camshaft designed to build power at 1800-5600 RPM. Guessing by your choice of cam, you need to pass emissions to drive your car. Either way you might want to look at your intake first. Clutch fans also are disengaged when the engine is cold. They still spin, but not at the same RPM as the engine. When the clutch heats up, as with an engine that is overheating, the clutch locks and it becomes the same as a solid hub fan.