Why would you want to run 13.4 compression? What is the point? Do you not like driving your car? Its killing me right now that I cant drive my 68 cutlass right now (no way its getting exposed to all the salt and crap they put on missouri roads).

What's the point, lol, no rotflmao(rollingonthefloorlaughingmyassoff)

The point is more power when you apply it properly. Plus the car sounds wicked. Motor sounds angry, like me!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Next I bet your going to tell me my muffler bearings are a waste of money.

Invadr, didn't your momma tell you, "if you don't have anything good to say, don't say anything at all." Everybody has their opinions on how strong your short-block should be, you don't need to knock somebody, because they aren't crazy like you. I'm sure a 300 Hp will "work" on a cast crank, but one little mistake in the tune and your engine is a pile of scrap, not to mention, it surely won't be durable, if you ask me.

Sorry to be frank, but we are probably wasting our breath here anyway as this engine probably is just a dream.

What are muffler bearings???  Where do I check the horsepower fluid?  What about the quadraphonic blaplunked drive?

Contradict yourself more.  Please.  Who builds a 400HP cast crank 383, with 13:1 pistons???  By the way, your timing figures are slightly off.  If you had done your reading (from people who know what they are talking about, http://holley.com/data/Products/Technical/A5061-SNOS.pdf) you would know that its 2 degrees for every 50 horse shot + a safety factor of 2 degrees.  So take 250, divide by 50 (you know how to do that right?), then take that number times 2 (in otherwords, double it), then add two to that number (use your toes), and subtract that number from your intial, non nitrous'd timing.  That comes out to about 28 degrees.  

More power???  Try better flowing heads.  Try a better intake, try more displacement, try a better exhaust system.  

I've built my own car from the ground up.  Which is no different from 90% of the people in here.  But dont be calling me an idiot when I have a University that says I know enough about material science, mechanism design, fluid flow, heat transfer, and computer optimization to go on to grad school for mechanical engineering.  I could rip into you, explaining on a molecular level why a cast crank is inferior to a forged steel crank, or use the otto cycle (an ideal model of the internal combustion engine) to explain the maximum amount of power you can obtain from an IC engine by raising the compression ratio.  

You have fun with your 13:1, 400HP, 4.11 geared, big cam, cast crank, 383.  I'll be driving by on the highway with my 10:1 compression, 400HP, mild cam, good cylinder head, 3.08 geared, overdriven, 350 Olds powered, Cutlass supreme.  It has flowmaster mufflers, and I'm pretty sure they don't have muffler bearings, at least, the website didn't say anything about them. . .  

"Maybe pokers just not your game. . .I know!  Lets have a spelling contest!"

Invadr, didn't your momma tell you, "if you don't have anything good to say, don't say anything at all." Everybody has their opinions on how strong your short-block should be, you don't need to knock somebody, because they aren't crazy like you. I'm sure a 300 Hp will "work" on a cast crank, but one little mistake in the tune and your engine is a pile of scrap, not to mention, it surely won't be durable, if you ask me.

Yeah, but saying it can't be done is another thing. People have been making 600hp on cast cranks for a while now. I have made over 850hp on a chevy cast cank (600 motor + 250 shot) before import cranks, its all in the machining of the crank if it will live, I have a stroker 365 chevy with a cast crank that spins 8500. If you want to find out what machining process I am taking about that keeps it from cracking, check out mopars, they have been doing it for decades.

Sorry to be frank, but we are probably wasting our breath here anyway as this engine probably is just a dream.

Yeah your right.

What are muffler bearings??? Where do I check the horsepower fluid? What about the quadraphonic blaplunked drive?

LOL

Contradict yourself more. Please. Who builds a 400HP cast crank 383, with 13:1 pistons??? By the way, your timing figures are slightly off. If you had done your reading (from people who know what they are talking about, http://holley.com/data/Products/Technical/A5061-SNOS.pdf) you would know that its 2 degrees for every 50 horse shot + a safety factor of 2 degrees. So take 250, divide by 50 (you know how to do that right?), then take that number times 2 (in otherwords, double it), then add two to that number (use your toes), and subtract that number from your intial, non nitrous'd timing. That comes out to about 28 degrees.

What I said was: 

"Cast crank 383 live under 300 shots of nitrous, I've done it, 13:1 on the street with pump gas happens when you run cams with more than 260 degrees @ .050 of cam timing and 32 degress of igintion timing, then turn the timing up to 38 to make the car run faster on race gas, I've done it."

Meaning I back off the timming to run a 13:1 motor on pump gas not on Nitrous, plus it was different motors and yes the nitrous one with a 300 shot, forged pistons but a cast crank. I also put a 300 shot on a stock Mustang GT with cast crank and cast pistons. 

More power??? Try better flowing heads. Try a better intake, try more displacement, try a better exhaust system.

Then how do stockers and super stockers do it?

I've built my own car from the ground up. Which is no different from 90% of the people in here. But dont be calling me an idiot (never called you an Idiot, but you need to seek a therpist to find out why you read idiot in the post with no mention of it, can't help you there, don't really care) when I have a University that says I know enough about material science, (metalurgist- A man who can tell the difference between a virgin metal and a common 'ore)  mechanism design, fluid flow, heat transfer, and computer optimization to go on to grad school for mechanical engineering. I could rip into you, explaining on a molecular level why a cast crank is inferior to a forged steel crank, or use the otto cycle (an ideal model of the internal combustion engine) to explain the maximum amount of power you can obtain from an IC engine by raising the compression ratio.

Now if cast pistons were so bad why do you find them in OEM were engineers like yourself design them to work under grulling conditions?

You have fun with your . I'll be driving by on the highway with my 10:1 compression, 400HP, mild cam, good cylinder head, 3.08 geared, overdriven, 350 Olds powered, Cutlass supreme. It has flowmaster mufflers, and I'm pretty sure they don't have muffler bearings, at least, the website didn't say anything about them. . . LOL

"Maybe pokers just not your game. . .I know! Lets have a spelling contest!" Why don't we just street race for it, your Cutlass vs My Nova, I'll met you on the internet at midnight, bring cash-cuase you will be seeing the tail lights of my 13:1, 400HP, 4.11 geared, big cam, cast crank, 383, lol

All I am saying is anything is possible even if you have not experienced it, maybe you should try it then bad mouth it. Form follows function, and if lack of money is the problem, you can still build power, but you better get it right cuase their is no room for mistakes. 

Now if cast pistons were so bad why do you find them in OEM were engineers like yourself design them to work under grulling conditions?

Cast pistons are cheap to manufacture, that's why they're common, it has nothing to do with strength, since you and I both know they are the weakest of the three or four types of alumium pistons being made today. The manufacturers did not forsee nitrous usage for their engines so cast pistons were the choice. I personally think 300 Hp nitrous shots on stock cast pistons and cranks is asking for disaster, and sorry to say but, many, many enthusiasts/hot rodders would agree with me. All in all it depends on how much of a risk the engine owner wants to take. I see your crazy and enjoy taking these risks, and just because you have and may have gotten it to work once or twice for a limited amount of time doesn't mean everybody else that wants to play it safe is a idiot.

Not trying to continue the fight, just tone it down a little bit here, and give you something to think about.

 I see your crazy and enjoy taking these risks, and just because you have and may have gotten it to work once or twice for a limited amount of time doesn't mean everybody else that wants to play it safe is a idiot.

Not trying to continue the fight, just tone it down a little bit here, and give you something to think about

1st were did I call anybody an idiot,

2nd I was talking about the use of a cast crank, but threw in the cast piston to make it interesting.

3rd IMO a cast crank, cast piston 383 making 400hp is the norm, nothing reckless and more of a street motot even with a 150shot than a forged piston, steel crank 400hp 383

oh, and it aint just my opinion, -

(not to continue the fight but bite me)

Pistons: Cast vs. Forged GLM offers an extensive line of pistons for all major brands and models of outboard engines. GLM pistons, like OEM pistons, are cast as opposed to forged. We have all heard the advantages of forged pistons. However, when you consider the disadvantages of forged pistons it becomes very clear why GLM cast pistons are the ultimate pistons for your rebuilding and repair projects. The major disadvantages to forged pistons are actually a result of the forging process itself. Forging results in a piston that is considerably heavier, than cast pistons, and is limited in the aluminum alloys that can be used to produce the piston. Additionally, the forging process also limits the design configuration of the piston itself. The forging process and its limited choice of aluminum alloys result in a dramatically higher expansion rate for the forged piston. This means that the set up characteristics are very different from the original engine manufacturers' and that break-in and warm up periods are crucial for the forged piston. An example of the dramatic expansion of forged pistons is the piston skirt clearances in the cylinder. A typical cast piston has a skirt clearance of approximately .0007 to .0009. A forged piston has a skirt clearance of .005 to .007. The forged piston has 10 times more slop in the cylinder. This results in less ring stability against the cylinderical wall, more piston noise and extra blowby. In all fairness, after the forged piston has reached operating temperature, its dramatic expansion makes up for these extra clearances. However, this should remind us of the typical customer that a dealer services. Can we expect the casual weekend boater to strictly observe the extended break in period and the critical warm up procedures required for a forged piston? Let your own experience answer this question. Most forged pistons are quality products, but they are better suited to racing and professional applications.   More Articles 30 Years of the OMC Sterndrive Sand Cast vs. Die Cast Pistons: Cast vs. Forged   Servicing Your Sterndrive/Drive Unit

Copyright © 1997-2005 GLM Products, Inc. All Rights Reserved.

Hey you want to blow up your motor all over the track and shred your oil pan fine . Just do not come back bitchen because it did not last. Maybe when your name is on something and you have to stand behind something when it blows to kingdom come you will have a bit more understanding . Sure lots of stuff may last but considering how many of these things I have sold vs How many you have installed. I think my numbers come out ahead . Oh and I do not work for a machine shop . I work for a warehouse distributor.  Oh and another thing this kid is building this engine considering he has a limited budget , I said that it would be in his best interests to do it strong as possible in the first place . Sure you CAN run 383's with cast cranks, never said you couldn't . I just suggested against it, if you are smart as you seem to be , yeah it can be done. But with this kid ? With some experience he might be able to make it last. I have seen the Scat series 9-350-3750-5700's blow in mere towing applications . I have the warrantys on my floor to prove it . Nicely cleanly split between the first rod journal and the second counter weight. You got all up in arms when it was suggested that you called someone an idiot. Go back and read what I said before you get all bent out of shape . You need to understand what I said. 

I guess I will give up, the people are smart enough to see through your B.S.

Your right you didn't directly call anybody a idiot, but your disposition to those who don't think in your ways makes up for it.

Merry Christmas!

Having built numerous sbc motors(as I'm sure you have too, Gibs), he's full of B.S..
You won't run 13:1 comp. on pump gas, S/S cars make they're power on ported/welded/ported/machined factory castings.
Making reliable 600hp, will require forged pistons, an aftermarket crank, and aftermarket heads. Plus someone who is very good assembling the motor. You will have none of this, obviously.
While this motor may run when you are finished, it won't live long, and likely won't make anywhere near the power your thinking it will. It will tear itself apart, because you decided not to fortify the bottom end, the basic building block.  

"...I have made over 850hp on a chevy cast cank (600 motor + 250 shot) before import cranks, its all in the machining of the crank if it will live, I have a stroker 365 chevy with a cast crank that spins 8500."

Sure.  And Santa is real. 

You inferred I was an idiot by throwing in the muffler bearings comment.  

You obviously didn't get the reference on the quote.  Try watching Tombstone.  Good movie.

I won't be returning to this particular thread, as it is pointless.  You obviously think your cast bottom ends are good enough and I do not.  This kid (Iroczguy) is never going to build this engine anyway.  He's in high school and doesn't have near the cash to build that kind of a motor, or rest of the drivetrain to withstand it.  If he does, it'll run like crap because all he wants to do is throw expensive parts on it.  You're motors may make the 800+HP that you are claiming, but I guarantee you didn't just pick the most expensive parts from the book and throw them on it.

I've tried to be polite, but this kid's got some growing up to do to realize there is more to engine building than looking at a parts book.  I'm tired of getting into/reading arguments over stupid crap like this.  Lata

But Charlie I thought Santa was real he left me enough cash to get a starter that fits my new motor.  I found it under the tree this morning, to bad he forgot the right intake and gaskets, but he knew exactly what I needed to drive it by tommorow.   

"...bring cash-cuase you will be seeing the tail lights of my 13:1, 400HP, 4.11 geared, big cam, cast crank, 383, lol..."

I just noticed your statement above.  Good golly...  a 13cr 383 humpin' only 400hp?  Something is keeping your combo down.  There are 13cr 283s making 400hp.  Peace.

Didn't Car Craft do a 13:1 cr 350 that dropped 505hp like three months ago?  All with a set of heads.  If my brain is thinking correctly it was 485 hp on the leaking block that needed rings and then the borrowed Kings short block?  Since he works for HD now do you guys get the motor back?