OK I want to keep my car running on pump gas unlike my dads car that runs on the 110 octane turbo blue But the pistons I would like to get jack the cr up to 13.4:1 So what are some ways that I could get to that magical number without going on such high compression Any help would be greatly apreciated!  

.......just change pistons..look into SRP for that 'magical' number.........  

Well, you can start here-

I bought the "How to build a max performance small block chevy on a budget" thats where i found out a bunch of stuff for my engine  

But the pistons I would like to get jack the cr up to 13.4:1

Umm, then don't use them.

My son has heard of methanol-water injection systems that can allow you do things like that, but it ain't worth it.  En short, you are depending on an after market doo dad that WILL wreck your engine if it fails.  They basically are not for every day drivers, although some are probably doing it.  I agree with the guy that says to change your slug selection.  13.4:1 is plain crazy and 92 octane ain't going to cut it.  You don't want a low compression boat anchor (say 8.5:1) either.  9.5:1 is a good standard choice.  Good performance with decent economy.  You could do up to 10.5:1 and it would work, but the 400 in my Olds 442 is running that at factory stock, and it still pings a little even with the timing adjusted to compensate.  I also run an octane boost, so that gives you some perspective.  Good luck - Bowser  

"I bought the "How to build a max performance small block chevy on a budget" thats where i found out a bunch of stuff for my engine"

Build a factory HP motor like the original LT-1. Use all the chevy spec's and you can find the cam at Crane cams Muscle car section. LT-1's were rated at 350, 365 and 370 hp. With aftermarket cam, and headers 400+hp was the norm.

I was looking through simmit the other night and since I'm on a fairly limited budget I noticed FEL-PRO's rebuild kit they had one for the 383 it had 11.1 cr with hyper. pistons and another kit with 12.3 cr with hyper. pistons I was wondering what would I have to do to run the 12.3 cr kit besides race gas  or am Ibetter off getting the 11 cr kit?  

What CC head are you running?  The 11:1 pistons might be with  a 64 CC head, and won't be that if you have 76 CC heads.  Personally, I wouldn't want to spend the money on race gas if it was a street ride.  Don't go with the 12.3 compression pistons unless you want to shell out 4-5 bucks a gallon.

A set of 64cc iron eagles or something simalar depending on the heads my dad has for me but I think 11.1 sounds pretty good to me thanks  

Don't do any thing that kills the quench. If theres enough thickness popups can be milled off.  

Why would you want to run 13.4 compression?  What is the point?  Do you not like driving your car?  Its killing me right now that I cant drive my 68 cutlass right now (no way its getting exposed to all the salt and crap they put on missouri roads).  As soon as I got that thing licensed this past summer i wouldn't stay out of it.  I drove the *&^% out of it until the weather turned.  As much fun as racing a car may be, nothing compares to driving it down the street and having people stare at it, and offer to buy it, and throw revs at you in some little POS, or driving it down an old highway at night.  Driving is what makes cars fun.  In fact, its supposed to be up in the 50's this weekend, I think I'll take a drive.  Its a lot better to be saying that as opposed to "well no tracks are open this time of year" or "my car wont run cuz I don't have a choke and the cam's too big to idle in hot weather, much less 50 degrees"  I've got no problem with people who do build those cars, but understand that they've dumped a ton of money into those cars and are serious about racing...not a high schooler looking for a cool ride.  

Absolutely agree. Too many people do what looks "cool" and ignore what actually runs on the street . 13-1 ? Ridiculous, as a person sells parts to Machine shops I would suggest you find a lower compression ratio. Especially with a 383 it is so easy to build compression that you can get carried away. Another thing are you going to run the forged crank or a cast one in this wonder car of yours ? You would be better off buying pistons with less compression and spending some money on a forged stroker crank . I have seen too many 383 cast stroker cranks on the junk pile in two piesces. So for what its worth spend your money wisely the first time.    

Do you even know what you are talking about? Cast crank 383 live under 300 shots of nitrous, I've done it, 13:1 on the street with pump gas happens when you run cams with more than 260 degrees @ .050 of cam timing and 32 degress of igintion timing, then turn the timing up to 38 to make the car run faster on race gas, I've done it. There is horsepower in comp. They say only run 150 shot of nitrous on hypertech pistons, Ive ran 250 shots. What have you done beside spread the rumor to buy a steel crank and spend more money? You sure must make that machine shop money by making people spend more, are you on commission? Yeah, all the parts you mention are stronger, but if your on a budget, the other parts can be pushed pass there limits, so if your building a 400hp 383, it can work even with badger pistons.