and i have no ac in my elco.  

Ok a buddy of mine said that you can get the brackets needed from jegs.They mounted the alt. to the water pump and the intake.  

Hey thanks man your a huge help!  

some double humppers had acc. holes depends on the year. i have a old 350 with double hump heads with acc. holes on the stand right now. on this motor of mine the alternator hooks to the water pump and to the 1st exhaust manifold bolt. if you order brackets you will need to know if you are going to run the short or long water pump first. these are good factory heads and will wake up a sbc thru the entire rpm range. keep in mind they probaly have smaller combustion chambers (cc) than your other heads which will boost compression a bit (bonus for you). port matching will yeild a bit more power but if you dont know what you are doing you could mess them up really bad--really fast. if your new and just learning dont port match. just make sure all surfaces are clean clean clean use the proper torque and order and dont forget to put sealer on the head bolts to prevent a water leak.  

what brackets do i get there are some many??  

You will need alternater brackets upper and lower as well as power steering pump brackets that will bolt to the water pump on my buddy's 55 with the same heads he had the alt. and power steering pump all bolted to the water pump.Also try www.summitracing.com click customer service or professor over drive to ask a tech question one of the techs could possibly give you the exact part numbers you need.hope this helps.  

Does the upper alt. bracket that you have now bolt to water pump and to the intake or just to the water pump it self also  the lower bracket if its the triangle shaped one with 2 bolts holding it to the water pump and 1 bolt hole for the alt. you should be able to rig it up with the alt. brackets you have by taking a shorter bolt and using a nut and bolt setup in the place the long bolt that threaded in to the head.  

will anyone give me some advice on replacing my head gasket and heads on my 350. how do i re time the motor after while its still in the car? i have some roller rockers and camel hump heads with skrew in studs for my stock 350. is there a problem with bolting these parts onto a stock motor?  

Head gaskets are pretty easy to replace on the early El Co's (I've owned 2 - a 68 and 70). I also owned an 80 and got sick and tired of all the wires/hoses and put in a 383 stroker  

First things first, take off the carb - it just gets in the way. Then BEFORE you take off the distributor, turn the motor over until the rotor points toward the firewall of the car. Mark on the firewall where the rotor points to. Then make a mark on the distributor collar and intake so you can line them up upon assembly. Now, take off the distributor and rip off the intake. This will be stuck in place, so just remove all the bolts and grab onto the place where the carb was and heave-ho!

Next, loosten all the rocker stud nuts and remove the head bolts and anything else attached to the heads. Once again, heave-ho! Clean EVERYTHING while you're at this point. Cleanliness = godliness. Be sure to check for funky things going on in the cylinders and heads (cracks, odd discoloration, ridges in the cylinder bores, etc). DO NOT TURN OVER THE MOTOR, or else getting your timing right will be a pain in the future.

Put new head gaskets on, install heads, install intake, install distributor by lining up all the marks (you DID mark everything, right?). Check valve lash (you can turn the motor over by hand AFTER the distributor is installed). Install carb, and floor it!    

hey thanks, what about timing the valves how do i do that??  

Tighten the valves up to zero lash on all valves (you will need to turn the motor by hand to do this, since valves will open/close according to the cam). What is zero lash? That means making it so the rocker arm and valve stem just touch. Then fire the motor up, and do a valve adjustment from there.

To do this, warm everything up to operating temp, shut the motor down, then pull the valve covers. You can use either oil deflecting clips on the rockers (keeps oil from squirting everywhere), OR you can do what I have done - I have taken an old set of valve covers off a junk car and cut off the top. This keeps the oil from dripping down the side of the motor.

Start the motor up, then work your way around doing a hot lash job. To do this, tighten one valve at a time until you start hearing a knock, then back the nut off 1/2 turn. Move on to the next valve, until all 16 are done. Easy cheezy.

Another BIG help is to get a factory service manual, or if push comes to shove, a Haynes or Chilton manual (not as good as factory). Either lay down the cash, or I have had good luck at my local library. Pictures are always nice  

Dear 69lt1nova, how do i mark the distributor for removal without turning the engine over so the rotor faces the firewall. its really hard to turn the motor over while its in the car.  

All you have to do is mark the terminal on the cap that the metal tab on the rotor is pointing to as well as mark the distributor body were the rotor is pointing to as well that way all you have to do when you reinstall is drop in the dist. and line up the marks. hope this helped  

BE sure not to turn over the engine until the dist. is reinstalled  

so i have installed new gaskets, rebiult set of Camel Hump Heads that have been ported and polished 462's 1.94/1.50 with  have been put on with new hardend push rods, guide plates and skrew in studs. i also got a edelbrock performer 500cfm card, but i think it might be too small because it came off a 327 so it might run my 350 lean.
i got some block sealing products to seal my block up just incase there is a crack some where, but i dont think there is. How do well these copper based sealer work? i also got some piston ring seal which you add to the oil. i also brock my dipstick tube, it snaped right  where it goes into the block, how do i fix that?