Hello I would like to know how can I test a brake booster. Im curious.  

In general a bad booster will cause a hard to push brake pedal that does not go to the floor. A bad master cylinder or leak in the brake system will cause a soft pedal that goes to the floor.

A way to test if the booster is holding vacuum is with the engine off you can:
1) Press the brake pedal a couple times, it should become progressively harder to push, once the car is started back up with in about 30 seconds of a smooth idle the pedal should have a normal feel to it.
2) Wiggle the plastic fitting that connects the vacuum line into the booster.  Be gentle so you don't break it but pushing it to the side a bit breaks the seal and you should hear a definate hiss. This hiss tells you it is holding vacuum and is good.
3) This one is kind of redundant but I had to do this to a friend to prove my point once. You can disconnect the vacuum line to the booster (and plug it off) start the engine and after the first one or two pushes of the pedal it will be hard to push. This simulates what a bad booster feels like, plugging the vacuum line back in it will return to normal pedal effort if the booster is good.  

Alright then I foud out 2 things today. I think theres no problem with my booster, but there might be a problem with my braking system cause i had posted a thread saying that I couldnt burn out cause my brakes wouldnt hold. It moves foward slowly. So Master cylinder might be bad. I will have to bleed the brakes again. Is there a way to test the master cylinder?  

I find it funny that you think your brakes are not working because the car moves forward during your power braking burnouts. It is not uncommon for a car to do that during burnouts. Go to a drag race and you'll see cars with fancy brakes sliding forward during their burnouts.

I have one question. When you're driving the car does the car stop like it supposed to? Does the car have disc or drum front brakes?  

It could also be a bad wheel cylinder.

And I agree with rebeldryver it could be nothing at all either.  When the V-6 was in the Skylark it usually refused to even in water, where if the ground was wet I could from a stop I could romp on the gas and it would break loose.  My Thunderbird won't power brake at all and rarely will burn out taking off from a stop yet it's faster than my Centurion (0-60mph) which has no issues loosing traction below 20mph.  

I have discs in front. I think that it shuldnt move because ive seen cars do hell of a burn out in dry pavement. They dont move an inch. I have to almost stand on the brake pedal for it not to take off fast. its move slowly foward.Where does the power braking come from maybe I cant check that out?  

My Thunderbird does the same thing. I'm not a trans guy so I am not positive its the problem but on the Thunderbird I think the power is lost in the transmission, particularly the torque converter.  I think the torque converter on the Thunderbird is worn out so it is not "flashing" on at the original stall point to really apply the power to the wheels. Instead the torque converter is slipping (as opposed to the transmission itself) and not giving full power to the rear wheels.  This is just my theory, I don't know how to test it or really if what I just described is even possible.  So that's two more of my cents.  

Buy some titanium pads for your Cougar. They will hold. I'm guessing whomever replaced the pads on your car got the cheapy organic ones. They don't hold for sh@t. If you really want to get it going; loosen the rear drums so they do nothing at all. I wouldn't suggest driving with the rear brakes that loose; it would not be good in a panic situation.  

well i was thinking replacing the rotors with new ones also i will buy those titanium pads. i will try everything in order to make my tires smoke like GOD intended to.    

i know this is last weeks post..    but... if you have your foot on the brake during the burn out you might have it wrong..

many racers use line lock solenoids in the front brake system to hold the car in place while staged..  they also use it for doing the beginning of the burn outs...

it is a electric solenoid that is installed between the master and the front brake system that is activated after teh driver pumps the brakes really hard  and holds the switch down.. then he releases the brakes.. this lets the pressure off the rears only...allowing the motor to spin the wheels while the fronts are holding the car in place...

these are really not safe to drive with on the street.. people do.. some cars were designed with ballbearings that rolled to one end of a cavaty to hold the stick driven car on a hill to stop it from rolling backwards...  they were soon all disconnected...


the rear brake system on most american cars are called self energizing..... the bottom of the shoes float back and forth...

when moving forward and the brakes are applied both shoes come out a fraction of an inch and the primary shoe is pulled away from the anchor pin at the top from the rotation of the drum..  the front shoe transfers this rotation to the rear shoe and increases the applied pressure/force/leverage to the rear shoe which is agenst the anchor pin at the top..  the reduces the amount of hydraulic pressure needed to stop the car..

this system also allows the self ajuster to work..   but only  when the brakes are applied when backing up...   since the self ajuster link or cable is on the top of the rear anchor and rounted to  the rear shoe web. when the rear shoe is pulled away from the anchor  the cable/link  is pulled..  this moves the lever that is agenst the starwheel and rotates it a partical turn.,..tightening the brakes...

what is really important is when anybody does a brake job  that they check the function of the rear brake ajuster system...

if it has a cable.. pull on the cable with your finger.. (like you are going to shoot an arrow) the lever should either move the ajuster as you pull it or when you release it... if the lever arm is worn or the starwheel is worn it will not turn properly.. and you brakes will become misajusted as they wear...     legnth of cable is is important also.. too long and it won't work to short and it won't work

it is only a 5 second test.. while the drum is off.

on link types depress the lever agenst the spring  and watch the star wheel turn...

and the most important thing to do is to make sure the star wheel is opening  the ajustment between the brake shoes...  its hard to put them in backwards ...   but possable to swap them side to side...