was wondering on how much lift can i get away with, with  stock valvetrain? this is a stock 400small block. iwas looking at under .500 lift cams.  

Most american V8's can accept upto .500" lifts .you want .150" coil bind clearance.For higher lifts you will need longer stemmed valves. Particular attention should be paid to the bottom of the spring retainer and the valve guide top..................Hydraulic lifters have a .090" cam lift tolerance.I would assume that anything less than .500" lift would be fine with the standard valve train altough, higher spring pressures are required with higher lift ,longer duration cams, or you'll get valve bounce at higher than standard max rpms = performance loss..................With stock std valve springs .020" extra lift over std you may get away with,providing the other cam characteristics remain the same i.e duration.  

Pretty much correct. When you go over .500" lift with a bone stock valvetrain, you run into pushrod clearance and retainer-to-guide clearance problems.

So, first thing to figure out, you gonna use a roller cam or flat tappet? Then from their hydraulic or mechanical cam? The really important thing is what RPM range do you want to run the motor in?

With the valvesprings, the rate of the spring is more important for higher lift cams than the pressures.  Things like ramp rate, lobe sep, duration (as mentioned above) are gonna determine what you need for a valve spring. The basic is though, with a flat tappet cam you want about 105-115 pounds on the seat for a mild street engine, 125-135 for roller cams.

I put a .480" lift cam in my '92 Silverado, using Crane 96802 valvesprings and retainers (99915s if I remember correctly). Stock valves and guides.  

appreciate the help guys! this is my first "build" if you can call it that. this engine will be used for cruising but i don't want to get embarrassed if i take it to the track on occasion. it will feature stock bottom and heads. edelbrock performer intake and carb and a hotter than stock cam. The cam i was looking at was a crane not sure the gring # but-
Intake Duration at 050 inch Lift: 228
Exhaust Duration at 050 inch Lift: 228
Duration at 050 inch Lift: 228 int./228 exh.
Advertised Intake Duration: 284
Advertised Exhaust Duration: 284
Advertised Duration: 284 int./284 exh.
Intake Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio: 0.480 in.
Exhaust Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio: 0.480 in.
Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio: 0.480 int./0.480 exh. lift


---either that or the comp cam high energy CS XE274H-10

Cam Style: Hydraulic flat tappet
Basic Operating RPM Range: 1,800-6,000
Intake Duration at 050 inch Lift: 230
Exhaust Duration at 050 inch Lift: 236
Duration at 050 inch Lift: 230 int./236 exh.
Advertised Intake Duration: 274
Advertised Exhaust Duration: 286
Advertised Duration: 274 int./286 exh.
Intake Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio: 0.487 in.
Exhaust Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio: 0.490 in.
Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio: 0.487 int./0.490 exh. lift
Lobe Separation (degrees): 110

I don't want to spend more than 200$ for cam and lifters but if anyone can suggest something that might work better i'm open to it.
I figure on a 2000-2500 stall and i am exploring ovedrive but i don't know if its in the budget.
Also....the motor had solid lifters. to install hydraulic lifters, is there anything i need to do other than drop em in? thanks guys! i enjoy picking your brain.  

Seems like the typical SBC classic budget 1970's rebuild...That crane 284 cam is super popular and just about every make has their own version of that cam. However often people choose a cam like this because it is the "biggest" that is under .500" lift. In my experience, with stock heads and mild intake is that it is too much cam for your motor.  Granted I realize that it is a 400, but "stock" heads are very subjective in the area of flow. With stock heads and the big cam, this engine combo will be a dog. Any real power will come from really turning it up some rpm, which most folks think that they will do, but seldom do in reality.  My advice it use the cubic inches to build torque to get that seat of the pants feel.  I would go with a cam that has 218-220 duration at .050". If you run a narrow lobe separation you will gain some mid range torque. You have not given the other side of the equation which is tranny, rear gear and car size/weight. Oh yes make sure to get the right valve springs, avoid the generic LT1/Z28 springs that cheap parts manufactures try to sell as performance. Buy the right spring from your cam manufacturer (unless you know how to calculate all your spring info)  The lifters should drop right in, but check to see if any oil restirctors were placed in the block for the old solid cam...
-ZK  

I would recomend using .450 lift crane energizer instead of the one you were gonna use originally.It would give better power out of the hole with stock heads. I have used this cam before with great results.Just another option for you to think about.  

I wouldn't go with extreme energy cams because half of all of them so far have failed during the break in process even when broken in correctly. I have a Lunati Voodoo 268/274 .489/.504 in my 350 with stock pushrods and lifters and valve springs from Lunati. The lift may sound big but it has a nice moderate lope good for street driving as well as great power from idle to 6000 rpm, with no flat spots.  

Lifter dia,limits the amount of fast ramp cams.If you want the comp.cams XE to work well ,Bronze bush the lifter galleries to accept the MOPAR .904"lifters,they are conducive to cam design intensity. Top fuelers use 1" lifters because of this.....................Break in with intense lobes usually require only the outer valve spring to not overload the new cam.Once run in,you can fit the dampener and inner sring if required. Another way to increase lift intensity with a chev is go to 1.7:1 ROCKERS,which increases lift for any given duration,in contrst to a radical profile.OR can u afford a hydraulic roller set up?..........But for my money,I'd go for an ERSON CAMS TQ30, this cam has alot of street 350 supporters.Power from idle to 7000!uSE A  good dual plane like a performer rpm or weiand stealth and  a 650 cfm 4 barrell.  

Hold on, bronze lifter sleeves, boring out the lifer bores? You're talking about a $500-$600 operation for an engine with a stock valvetrain, I don't think so...

Idle to 7000 rpm? That's pretty funny. I had no idea an engine makes power in that kind of range! I thought the crankshaft didn't even start rotating until 4000, or 5000 rpm...  

that must be one heck of a cam b/c wasn't that cam mentioned in the 305 pulling like a train thread for use in a 305?  

Of course that is one heck of a cam Mercman! If you want to make 500 horsepower with a 305, get a Erson TQ30 cam! If you want to make 700 horsepower with a 350, get a Erson TQ30 cam! If you want to make 400 horsepower with a 350, get a Erson TQ30 cam! If you want to make a 1000 horsepower and great low-end torque with a slant-six, get a Erson TQ30 cam!

, I can't resist...  

God bless you GIB TG and MERCMAN and any other narrow minded person!Exagerrations and condescending remarks are your solution to everything!What else could one expect.....................U can't touch this!But I imagine given the lameness.I would'nt be surprised.  

At least we have a solution. Your supposed open-mindedness is great in all except for the fact that it will never have a result. You stir up trouble on this board to entertain yourself and for no other reason. You aren't building home-made mechanical injection systems and you aren't building naturally aspirated small block Chevy's that rev to 7000 rpm that make great low-end torque, just admit it and be on your way. This board has no use for you, "thesilverbuick," "CSIROC," myself, etcetera contribute to this board. You don't, you just beat everyone to the punch and tell people with stock engines to sleeve all the lifter bores and put in Chrysler lifters, put in a Erson TQ30 cam (as if that's the only camshaft you've ever used), and that you will be faster than cars that make a 150 horsepower more than your ride - because you're in denial that nobody but yourself has it "figured out." Your logic is one big contradiction. Your logic isn't logic, it's narrow-minded bickering.  

I'm starting to think powerdreams works for erson cams, seems to be pushing them quite a bit.  I hope they make on for my lawnmower to put its power band from 0-8500 rpm.  

And by the way most car crafters I know can take a little bit of ribbing, it usually runs with the territory.  I know when I tell my friends some of my ideas they look at me and say "That is the worst idea ever, you blanking idiot."  And then I accuse them of being close minded.  

Gib,if the GM Brigade told you it was good to jump off a cliff without a net,parachute or bungee rope do it cause they'd be right!!!!!!!!!! Monte 85 you can't even think for yourself,let alone read or assess anything.I can hear the flies buzzing around your mouth and gibs head, I Wonder why???? HMMMMMMMMM.......and the TQ30 is a good street cam. It may not be the best cam,but it works well with stock components,especially with GM and chev V8's.Before you go criticising,if you have any clout with CC, (I doubt it)it would be reasonably cheap to fit one to a 350  and try it, actually drive the car and dont base everything on dyno numbers.The car being 3,400lbs or less in weight.You'll be surprised at how well it performs on the actual street a stark contrast to your tight fistedness marathons.