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dabigguy
New User
| Posts: 3
| Joined: 09/07
Posted: 09/08/07 09:40 AM
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I've got a '71 Camaro project car that I'm working on. What I'm looking for is ideas for the engine. I plan on keeping the body stock, no cowl induction, no hood scoop, nothing. What I would like is some advice regarding what engine options will give me the greatest power. As the car has no engine or transmission, I am willing to consider any option, big block, small block, fuel injection, carbs, anything.
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69camaro1
New User
| Posts: 15
| Joined: 06/07
Posted: 09/09/07 06:47 AM
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For an engine it's hard to beat a 350. It dosen't really matter if its a 2 or 4 bolt main block unless you are going to whine it past 7000 rpm, I have always perfered a 4 bolt reguardless. 186 double hump cast heads are good stock performing heads, the only problem you might run into is the 63cc chambers will bring a flat top piston to about 10:25:1 compression. But if you can afford some aftermarket heads its hard to beat AFR 195cc heads with 68 or 72cc chambers. A good dual pattern cam such as a Lunati Voodoo cam will take advantage of stock heads by giving more lift and duration on the exhaust side to improve head flow. I was recommended the 268/276 adv. duration and .489/.504" lift, it makes for a nice lope with good street mannors without sacrificing decent idle vacuum(The price includes lifters). If the stock cast crank is out of spec, especially if it looks like it was turned in the past it should be replaced and you might want to consider a cast steel crank made by Eagle for around $190.00. An Edelbrock RPM Airgap intake not only looks good but performs great from idle to 8000 rpm and you can look for a used one in ebay for a bit less than new. I have always perfered a Holley 650 or 750 single or double pumper works great. A pair of good headers help the engine breath, the brand is up to you and the Ceramic coated headers look good and last for several years. Lastly make sure you have a good 2.5" exhaust with good mufflers such as flowmasters or Magnaflow.
For the transmission a Muncie works great and if you have under a 3.36 rear gear you will definetly want to take advantage of the M20s 2.52 first gear. But if you have at least a 3.36 rear gear you can get decent acceleration out of a M21 or M22 that have a 2.20 first gear. If you want an overdrive a TKO will work great with about any rear gear. You should have a good posi unit, I have always liked Eatons. If you want decent acceleration with decent highway mileage a 3.36 rear gear works great.
I hope all this helps and post back if you have any questions.
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dabigguy
New User
| Posts: 3
| Joined: 09/07
Posted: 09/09/07 05:46 PM
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69Camaro1,
Thanks for the input. It does help me out. Since the car currently has no engine at all, I'm more than likely going with a crate motor, probably a stroker. You don't think going big block would be worth it? A friend has a '72 SSRS396 Camaro that can really lay down the tracks if he hits the gas a little too hard.
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Posted: 09/10/07 09:38 AM
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Is the car a stick or automatic? I'd say save yourself some time and labor, stick with whatever the car is set up for now.
As for a an enigne, with gas prices the way they are now (highway robbery!), I'd say stick with a small block. You could build a nice 9:1 compression 327-350-383 that'll run on 91 Octane, get decent mileage, and still smoke the tires when needed.
GM Performance Parts sells their HT383 crate engine that's deigned to make a ton of bottom end power. It has 9.1:1 compression so it's pump gas friendly, has a four-bolt main block, forged crank, iron heads, everything for a great, durable engine that'll make your Camaro a screamer without costing a fortune to fill up!
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dabigguy
New User
| Posts: 3
| Joined: 09/07
Posted: 09/10/07 06:09 PM
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Phill,
Thanks for your info. The car originally had an automatic transmission so I was planning on sticking with that. I have to admit that I'm leaning towards a small block since it will keep costs down a bit, letting me put it into other areas of the project.
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Posted: 09/11/07 10:36 AM
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My dad and i picked a '71 up last year, full fiberglass front and we have a '66 chevelle 396 engine bored .30 over (402) and a saginaw 4 speed. I think it's going to run really well, if you're going to go big block i'd say 396 or if you can find one a 427.
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69camaro1
New User
| Posts: 15
| Joined: 06/07
Posted: 09/11/07 07:02 PM
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Big blocks have a great unique sound and put out lots of torque. If you aren't going to do alot of driving a big block works fine but if you are a small block will make great power, decent mileage, while staying in a smaller budget. I decided against a 383, because I would have to cut away at a good four bolt main block to clear the crank and the longer stroke dosen't allow it to wined up as quick. But I have heard they make good torque and have a sound close to a big block. The 9:1:1 compression will work great on 87 octane. If you want to lower the compression with the 186 heads you could have a few head gasket spacers or ground the combustion chambers out to 68cc or 72cc, which should lower the compression to around 9:1:1 to 9:5:1:. I had a 396 with stock oval port heads with a 10:25:1 stock compression and it ran great on 87 octane.
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Posted: 10/19/07 05:26 AM
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What kind of garage do you have? Any old engine parts laying around from other projects?? Just curious.. Cuz if you have an old 327 laying around that might need a few parts, there is an excellent starter right there. The 327 was the most powerful Corvette engine from the factory until 2001 when the 3rd gen aluminum 346(not 350) beat it by putting out 405 HP. Two very big differences though, a 327 is carbureted(obviously) as opposed to fuel injection, and 3rd gen is aluminum which is more thermal-efficient. So I'd say the 327 is the way to go. It had less technology, less sophisticated, and unfortunately less production numbers, but it took GM 40 years to find an engine to beat it. It has a small stroke(3.25 in) which means you could really whine it out if you needed to, or your budget permits you too. I mean gas mileage should not be a concern here at all. You are building a car that can be described in one word: BEASTY. The minute you step on it, President Bush is gonna watch his profit margins go through the roof. That is the only downfall to building an import dusting, hardcore muscle car.You want power you have to sacrifice fuel. You know, 360 HP is a nice start for a street machine, though.
Guzzling gas and hauling ass, the true American way.
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mercman
New User
| Posts: 49
| Joined: 08/07
Posted: 10/23/07 04:31 PM
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depending on how much you want race, ive got a couple of ideas. the first one being a 355, just b/c it's not cool to tell people you've got a stock motor. the 2nd one being the popular 383, b/c it is cool to tell people you've got a 383 w/o disclosing hp numbers. the last one will only work if you can find one, a 377. i don't suggest this if heavy nitrous is in the works, b/c it's not cool to blow up 400's. 700r4 is the way to go for highway work, and the th350 for mild strip use. if all out racing is in the cards for this car, then the 496 stroker and a powerglide is the only way to go. ive seen 1100 hp out of this combo in a buddy's 73 z28 on nitrous. hope i helped, and not just confused the heck out of you
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