Ok I would just save the 305 heads and use them on the 283ci chevy block.  

gear ratios were terrible back then...as bad as 2.14(yes!!)/2.29/2.41/2.56/2.73 and if you are lucky 3.08...  

nitrousnerd67:
gear ratios were terrible back then...as bad as 2.14(yes!!)/2.29/2.41/2.56/2.73 and if you are lucky 3.08...

I just happpened to get a 3.08 ratio stock. GM had to put high ratios in those cars, to make up for the overdrive transmissions, that were not availible to those cars.

Ok on an update for my current project. I bought a vacuum guage to check my engines vacuum throughout a various number of driveing conditions. I figure I have everything ste right, except WOT. I have 21" Hg at idle in Park, 18" Hg at idle in gear with the brakes pressed in. I have 20" Hg at 35 MPH, 18" at 45 MPH, 16" at 55 MPH, and 13" at 65. I also noted that when coasting with no throttle, I have 24" Hg. I noted that Vacuum increases at part throttle acceleration, until RPM hits the shift point, then it drops back down, and when decelerating, it stays steady on 24", until RPM drops close to idle, then it slowly decreases until RPM hits idle. It stays steady at 18". Lastly, and why I think WOT is calibrated wrong. When I floor it, it IMMEDIATLY goes to 1", and it stays there all the way to the red line. Does this mean I'm getting too much fuel and need to lean it out some more? I currently lack the jets to lean out the secondaries any futher. I just drove to Pittsburgh, from Warren, last night. My total trip was 187 miles, and even with my THM-350, my avg economy was observed at 26.26 MPG. That was estimating the amount of fuel at 7 gallons used for the trip. I actualy used less, but not sure by how much. So I know my carb is tuned fairly well, for part-throttle cruise.

Also, from following the Haynes Rebuild manual, I didn't find any erratic or troublesome readings, or fluctuating readings in the drivway,or during testing. So I know my engine is fairly healthy too.  

Man I'm stoked!!!!!! Just picked up my 283 today for 300 bucks. It was out of a 1965 Suburban. I'll get the casting numbers for the block and heads in my next post. I forgot to write them down. I must say I really enjoyed tearing that engine down, it wasn't too tough. It took me abour 3 hours to get everything out of it. I left the bottom end alone, as finances do not permit a full rebuild. Man was I floored when I saw the beautiful FLATTOPS in it. I just hope that it doesn't boost my CR up too high with the 416 heads I'm having done up with the 58cc combustion chambers. Not that many are too interested in a 283 build, but I'm really proud of myself. This will be my first build, where I actually dismantled most of the engine and put it back together. I never realized that a cam swap on those engines were so easy. Even if the engine was inside the vehicle, you guys that posted earlier are right, it wold only take 1 day or so to tear everything apart and get it back together. May decide to use the valves and springs from the stock heads in my 305 heads. The 305 heads are in bad shape and need reconditioned, the 283 valve train is in great shape. I'm gonna go with brand new pushrods, and hopefully screw in rocker studs. This way the valve train has increased durability. Both heads have rotators, which I found to be odd, since the 416's were cast in 1980-1985. Thought rotators were only used with leaded fuel. How will this affect a unleaded engine? Will it help reduce valve burn  when lean conditions occur, or from engine hotspots?  

No it wont boost the c.r. too high with 416 heads.
The 416 I had on my 305ho had rotators as well.
Whats your power goal and I can get a list of parts to help get you there.  

One of the first engine I took apart totally was a 267. It came out of a Camero. Since you are running it, watch your rocker studs. The rockers like to dig into the sides making fractures and affecting the lift. I don't know how you're getting the air to the engine, but it does help to only have COLD air going in and not the underhood hot air. Cold air is more dense and burns fuel better.
From what I'm reading, you're more interested in TORQUE. There is nothing wrong with seeking that from a small bore. When your budget permits, I would recommend Tuned Port Injection. Tune Ports produce more torque. With the manifold and carburetor, the middle four (3,5,4,6) cylinders run a little richer and the outer cylinders (1,7,2,8) run a little leaner. Tune ports help fix that. Some setups are programable for different fuel ratios. So you can have your daily rider and save gas as well as blow the hell out of the little rice rockets!! Besides, Chevy Tuned Port Setups look cool!! Hope this helps.    

Pontiacman:
No it wont boost the c.r. too high with 416 heads.
The 416 I had on my 305ho had rotators as well.
Whats your power goal and I can get a list of parts to help get you there.

Umm I have the cam and everything I want for the engine. I listed them previously. I'm gonna swap the 283 into the Malibu. Figure without flowing heads on the 267, I'm not gonna make my 200 HP power goal. I just seen a 283 build on you-tube, with a mid range cam. High lift fairly high duration, dual feed holley four barrel. He dynoed 312 HP @ 6000 RPM, and 320 ft-lbs. of Torque @ 4500. It wouldn't idle, and that is what I want to steer clear of, hence why I selected the edelbrock Performer series, instead of the RPM series. I want a smooth idle, and great vacuum signal. I am guessing with what I have listed I should be able to get close to 250 HP with this build around 4800-5300 RPM. (Hopefully) My engine shifts around 6000 now, and it shifts back to around 4000, well after my engines useful powerrange, which means once I'm off the line I don't go anywhere.  

I can assure you that I want to steer clear of EFI. Budget will not permit that, unless I start selling my gun colection. I'm interested on how with a carb the inner cyliders run a little rich though. Is this due to location of the carb being in the center of the intake manifold? Or from the design of the manifold? I am very interested in Torque. This is the engine's actual power that you FEEL. I am hoping to build this engine to achieve a very broad torque band, wich of course will tend to flatten my HP.  I have a performance build book here, where the author build a 350 for $344 bucks, with alot of milling and reworking parts(it shows you how to do these things), it dynoed only 304 HP, but achieved 390-410 ft-lbs of torque from 1000-5200 RPM. Redline was 5500. I don't have the equipment to mill heads etc, so I'm only gonna have pocket porting, and some other simple affordable things done. I'm gonna have more than $344 bucks into the engine, but I really believe the 283 will get me where I wish to be, and besides, what other SBC can you find in a boneyard cheap? I doubt you'l find a 327 anywhere, 350's are getting hard to find(pre1986), and 302's are as scarce as a good running Quad 4....  

If you are re using the cam from the 267 then make sure you put the lifters back on the same cam lobes they were on.  

It is getting the Edelbrock Performer series cam. It hasn't even been installed to the 267. I put it off, cuz I though it would be extremely diffcult, and time consuming to install it. I'm glad I did. It will be fresh out of the box for installation into the 283. It has .420 intake lift and .442 exhaust lift. 204/214 curation at .050", and 112 lobe seperation. I ran the casting numbers. My engine has a block casting of 3789935, and a G10 on the front under the timing cover, which from what I have read means the block has 10% nickel or tin added to help the casting process, which causes the engine block to harden over time. It make the engine block stronger from what I read. The block is out of a 1962-1964 passenger car, or light duty truck. The heads have a casting number of 3814480. God do those thing SUCK!!!! 1.72 intake valves, 1.50 exhaust, and a mammoth 70 CC chambers!!!!! No wonder it only had 185 Gross HP with a one barrel carb. MY 267 has more net HP STOCK!!!!

Ok now that my new discovery is done and vented. I'm thinking of disassembling the heads, on both the 283, and the 305 HO's I bought, before reconditioning the 305 heads. I had hoped to recondition the valves in the 283 heads, since I heard the engine run and it didn't smoke or knock. If I reuse the springs, exhaust vales, rocker assemblies, will it hurt to have new intake valves? The 305 heads have sat so long that they are froze in place in the heads, and I'm pretty sure that most machine shops in my area will tell me I need new ones, in order to up the bill. I might as well just look into some prices on new valves and reassemble the heads myself. Just have the machinist recondition them and install new guides and pocket port them. I want to get a 3 angle valve job done as well. How do you tell if a valve is bad to the point where it cannot be reused????

FYI alot of 'performance' machine shops are pretty shady in my area. Alot of mechanics are too. I just want to be informed, this way I don't get ripped off. Or if anyone is here in NE Ohio, near Youngstown, that knows of a reputable machinst. I'd greatly appreciate the help.  

The way I check the valves is to put them in a hand held drill and spin each valve this will let you know if they are bent.  

You should get around 250-270 H.P. out of that combo with headers.  

Thanks for the tip on the drill for checking for bent valvse, I guess with corrsion you can just sand them down or clean them up? Something similar to the way the heads are reconditioned? I'm getting ready to send them out tommorow afternoon.

I need to correct a previous post also. The 350 engine I posted about earlier, I found the manual buried under my Haynes rebuild manual last night. The engine was assembeld for $644, the authors name is David Vizer, he has been building and machining for 40 some years. He used a stock camshaft, stock cast iron manifold, even used PeP Boys brand plugs and wires. The power ooutput as around 340-375 ft.-lbs. of torque, til about 4000 RPM, and 304 HP at 5000 RPM redline. He decked the blockk to 8.990", reworked the intake manifold, and milled the heads for 64 cc chambers, with a CR of 10.1. He used 2.02/1.60's. Everything else was prety much stock. Oh, and Camshaft timing was 4 degrees advanced over stock. I must say that it was pretty interesting book to read through, however I think his 10 engine combos at the end, could have had better results, with only a fractional amount of more money spent. I think his point was showing a builder how to make a pure street/towing engine that will still perform at the track, with as little money as possible. I for one hold a different opinion about milling. I have came to the conclusion, when you start shaving metal out of your crank, block, and heads, you are making the structural integrity weaker, and could risk a craked block, or cylinder head. Possibly a broken crank too. If anyone is interested in sme of his other combos from the book, let me know, and I'll send a PM to you with the build he did. If anyone has ideas or thought on this author and his build also feel free to post here. In an onther post someone told me that bulding a good MPG V-8 wasn't worth the money and time. Well with gasoline being $4 a gallon, a good MPG V-8 will not only outrun most rice bomb, fart canned 4 bangers, but it'll pay for itself within the first year of fill ups.  

Ok I gotta post this, since it has to do with crafting and building stuff, and knowledge of engine, ect. I was just out on a local freeway cruising around 60 MPH in my 92 Honda Accord, with it's STOCK 2.2 SOHC 16 valve FWD engine, and it's 5 speed manual tranny. A punk in his fart-canned Crapilier, with 18" racing tires and rims, a boeing wing, and stupid taillamps blows by me at over 100 MPH. So I followed him to a back road that has a long straightaway. When he got there he floored it, so I did the same. Now before I g any futher, I'd like to state that this situation is why the fart-can crowd gets the ridicule they DESERVE. MY Honda has 207,000+ miles on it, both qtr panels are rusted so badly that the bumper is hanging, and the car is wrecked in the rear clip, from a guy hitting this winter just past. Needless to say, after about 90 MPH and just going into 4th gear, I slowly gained on him, then over took him at 120 MPH. It was nothing short of HILARIOUS!!!!!!!! He had all these "modifications' and a dumb body kit, I just embarassed him in my STOCK daily gas saver and grocery getter. Mine is a friggin 4 door too, he had a two door Z24. I no this is off topic but it was so funny to me, and my friend, that I must shre this. If I was that kid, I'd scrap that car and go buy a real one, like a 1979 camaro with a 350. It's one thing to get beat, but to get beat by a guy in car with more rust than paint, that is just embarassing.  

Ok got the price on the heads, with the porting, 3 angle valve-job, and reconditioning, and new guides, they are charging me 498 bucks. Not too bad, paid 150 for the heads, so I have 648 in the top end. 119 on the intake, 179 on the headers, 279 for the carb, and 149 for the cam. Can't remember the price on the coil and wires, but combined it was like 100 bucks. So altogether I got about an 1800 dollar buld counting the engine. I'm just waiting on the heads to come back from the shop. I dount count gaskets as part of the tuning price. It is pretty much a given that you'll be replacing seals and gaskets. Considering my 267 has three bad seals for oil alone, if the head gasket went, it wouldn't surprise me.


Also, I used about 6hrs today playing with my vacuum guage, timing, air/fuel mix at idle, and idle speed screw. My final results, on the 267 for it's last few weeks of life......I currently have 22" vacuum at idle, 19" in gear at idle, and around 15-20" at speeds varying from 35-65 MPH. On a flat stretch of pavement @ 55 MPH I can achieve 19" Vacuum. Now at 65 MPH with my old tuning, I ha around 13". I was avg 23-26 MPG. Gonna take a trip to PA again this weekend, just curious as to what my fuel economy will look like.

Lastly, I disconnected my vacuum advance from my distributor entirely to achieve those figures. What are the pros and cons to doing that? I think I should run full vacuum advance(manifold), instead of the carb(timed) vacuum. It seems to run better on the road, but my idle is kinda rough. I don't have spark knock anywhere during part-throttle or WOT acceleration either. Any thoughts???