About that 3.5L V-12, it's small bore and a small engine, not to mention a 305 would flow great if it had 5 valves in the head. That's the problem I understand with the 305 is the airflow around the valves is crowded by the bore.  More valves would solve that or move the bore out. This is a bit off topic, my apologies.  

what is the bore and stroke on the northstar. they seem to make pretty good power for what.. 4 liters?  

Again, about the Northstar, it has 4 valves per cylinder, so a smaller bore doesn't hinder flow.  Besides also smaller engines are expected to have smaller bores. Small bores are only problems with 2 valve per cylinder and larger displacements.  

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Everyone except mopar man is going to disagree that the small block chevy is a poorly designed engine.  There aren't too many better.  They're over exposed...but a great engine no less.

Absolutly right. I wasn't saying it was a poorly designed engine. I also found out that the 305's I saw with gear-to-gear timing were aftermarket conversions. Production 305's were chain driven. For those Mopar fans out there, I'msorry the Chevy SB is so great, but Mopar V-8's are still good. 318's and 360's were practically indestructable. My grandpa owns a auto-recycler yard, and we can't get rid of 318's and 360's. They run for ever.  

I wouldn't go so far as to call it great   (well maybe the LS series)    But there is an aftermarket bolt on for each of it's  shortcomings.  

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I wouldn't go so far as to call it great   (well maybe the LS series)    But there is an aftermarket bolt on for each of it's  shortcomings.

There are even aftermarket parts to fix things that aren't wrong with them.  

If I were in your shoes, I would pick up a 350, and set it up with everything you need for the swap. Then, in one weekend, I would swap it out.  The key is having the 350 ready to go ahead of time.  Perhaps you could do it at your granfather's junk yard... he probably has the tools and there's likely to be an extra set of hands to help out.

You'll spend a lot of time and money trying to make that 267 run, and you will be disappointed in the end.  If you're lucky, you're car has a 3.08 gear, it may have a 2.41... there is no way a 267 is going to be able to get out of its own way with that combo.

The new Acura and Lexus V6s are putting out 300HP. It will take a stout powerplant to show them your tail lights.

Just for reference, we ran a 305 with a 264 Isky cam, performer intake, 1 5/8" long tube headers, and a 2 1/2" mandrel-bent exhaust, with a 3.70 posi in our 62 Vette. The thing was a gutless pig.  When the Acuras/Mudstains/ 80 y.o. women in Hyundais/ or whatever pulled up to me and revved, I just let them go.  Because anyone of them would have put the smack down on the gutless 305.  

that "olds" 350 might be an "old" 350 maybe you heard the guy wrong,chevy never had anything but chevy engines,caddy pontiac and god knows what else were interacial.so take the caprice's 350 even if it is an olds motored frankenstein job.that 267 is gar-bage.i'll sell you a roller cammed 305 long block with 20k on it for 300 bucks than ran 14.80's in a 80 malibu wagon.heck i even have the carb and intake,you just need the ignition and some gaskets and a fresh coat of paint.lemme know,i'm in ct  

I'm not gonna feed ya fulla *** and I'm thinkin u already know this engine is borderline to a pony pullin a horsewagon,But u look hard enough you can make nice cheap pony's. A few yrs. back,I come accross a set of 283 power pack head's.Chevy put'em on their H.O. 283,an early vette engine.Now it aint no H.O. 350,but if I'm not mistaken those heads should fit.You have a 267 c.u.SBC.Same stroke-3.48 as a 350 S.B.C.For the money,work with that.Those heads shouldn't be all that hard to find and as I recall they had real nice flow for a small cuber.And if you wanta spend a little pocket change a 500 cfm or smaller if you choose, for carb would work real nice.These other guys arent altogether wrong,but I currently have an.H.O.305 in my 5,400lbs.87'Chev 2x4.with a nice power range.My engine is stock from an 86' 1500 chev.Im runnin a 600 Edel. on it with tru duals off headmans finest.If I was to say,it'd probably run 15+ quarter mile, but sounds like thats where you wanta be on a smaller scale.So for originality rights, play around with the thing.I'd call it educational if nothin else.Let's hear ur results either way !  

Ok well first let me thank you Clyde for not rippin me. It isn't a big engine and for anyone who read my early posts,I'M NOT LOOKING FOR A 12 SEC. CAR THAT HAS TO TOW A GAS PUMP BEHIND IT!!!!! I have already started the project at hand. I replaced the stock manifold( that generated 125 HP @ 3800 rpm) with an Edelbrock Performer Series 2101, Rated for idle-5500RPM. Two barrel carb and emissions went by-by, as for the stock exhuast and catalysts. I put a 600 CFM Edelbrock 1406 carb on it. I turned 18.169 at 76.28 mph. It may have been faster had it not took my car an 1/8 mile to get out of 1st gear(3.08 axle and THM-350 transmission). That is actually faster than the stock configuration. I know everyone is laughing, but understand that I have the same bottom end as a 350 chevy. So guess what????? A little machining on my block and viola, a forged 400 crank will fit nicely, bringin my cubes to 288 cu. in. I can overbore to .030 over max, which if I choose to do that, would bring to 293 cu. in. That's what about a 4.8L. Which mean I can increase my flow and Torque by increasing the stroke. It will limit my RPMs, but as any tuner knows, there is no REPLACEMENT for DISPLACEMENT. I still have the stock fan, just by taking that off can give me a few horses. If I can get that car into the high 15s I'll be more than content. Most of the idiot kids in my area just put body kits and coffee can on their Hondas and Cavaliers, etc. They don't actually tune the engines, just make it advertise, "I saw that on Fast and Furious." Besides I'm doin most of the carb and engine work myself, and it has been a considerable learning experience, so let me have my 15 sec of Fame. I could be like the rest of the world and throw a350in it and be done, but that is so common. I want to be different.  

Of course i will need to check my deck height for a crank swap. I may run into a valve-to-piston clearance there. I will probably have a machine shop do the more intricate work.
This is a little off topic, but I need to ask a really confusing question. Why do I need to change my fuel lines from neoprene rubber to steel if I'm drag racing??? I live in Ohio, and I had gone to Quaker City Dragway to test my newfound power, and they told me I was ok for that day, but to continually race there I would need to replace all the rubber connections with steel. Is this a safety thing, a racing rule, or possibly their private "house" rule for the track? If anyone form Ohio or any racer that may know, I would appreciate some light on this matter.  

And all in all, at the least it is a great experience!  As to the fuel line, unless I am mistaken I believe that you can't have more than 6" of rubber fuel line as a safety rule. I don't think it is a local "house" rule because I've heard of rubber line length limits else where.  

OK I was curious about that. I definitely have more than 6in. of neoprene rubber line from the filter to the carb. In fact I ran the fuel over top the passenger fender liner and upper A-Frame to keep it away from the hot exhaust manifold. The Edelbrock manual recommended a type of adapter kit for the fuel connection to the carb,which included neoprene rubber lines. So this is obviously a safety thing then. Since I am on the subject of changes and maintenence,would you believe that the trans. fluid was never changed on that car? OMG I dropped the pan and I coulda scrapped my drain pan for about 50 bucks, that was how much steel was in it. However, the fluid flush made a consderable change in shift points, and didn't really affect the transmission. I was expecting it to slip outta every gear, but it just runs better. It's shifts sooner in first, which means I was probably over-revving the engine at the track, and it holds second gear a little bit later before hitting third. Is this normal? The 1980 Chilton manual says the valve body being clogged will cause a short shift, but nothing about a late shift. Could either one have been from the trashy fliud and filter or both?  

The characteristics of the bad fluid and any gummed up check valves or passages will effect the shifting.  Shifts could go either way depending what part of the transmission is more effected by the bad fluid (like bad fluid not holding the clutches properly will shift early or a bleed off passage gummed up and slowing a bleed off will shift later, etc).  The Friction modifiers of the ATF effect the shifting of the trans, that is why there are diffent types of ATF, the old fluid probably had most these modifiers broken down and useless hence also effecting your shifts.  

The fuel line thing is a safety reg.As for the stroke aspect,Id say good thinkin.Small piston's are nice and light,so u can wind it tite with less stress on the crank,ya know.Just b sure to check rod angle befor dumpin a load in.That small bore may not have enough deck hieght 2 clear the rod angle at the piston skirt with 3.75"stroke.377's are tight with their 4.001 bore when using a 6" rod.Similar circumstance's,you usin 5.7"rod.Sounds like a fun build.Id like 2 see sumthin like that with an oxidizer(blower,N.O.S.,etc.)for the fun of it.