If anyone's interested, I'll detail the new 351C I put together for the Falcon this year.

The basic design specs were 357 CID (.030 over, 3.5" stroke), zero deck with flat tops, internal balance, Crane solid flat tappet F-238 cam (238/248 duration), 4V closed chanber heads, 4V Funnelweb intake and a 750DP Holley/Proform carb.  

All scrubbed and painted - ready for parts.  Bores are .030 over, honed for a moly ring set.  Block was cut .016 to put the pistons at zero on the deck.  Durabond cam bearings should last a long time in this engine:


I still have to test fit the MSD distributor to make sure the gear is set correctly and won't bind against the boss in the block.  

The heads are getting Parker Racing port tongues to go along with the Funnelweb intake.  The ports CC at 242 raw and 220 with the stuffers.  A mild porting job will put the intakes at 300 CFM+ by .500 lift


The glue - nasty stuff, expensive, does the job:



I’ve fitted the oil pump to check the free play on the drive shaft with and without the distributor.  Fastener sidebar - I prefer studs to bolts wherever I can use them.  It’s less strain on the block threads and in lots of cases it makes assembly easier and more accurate.  On the oil pump drive shaft, you have to make sure the little retainer clip is in the right place.  It’s pretty easy on these FRPP moly shafts; you just run it down on one end.  The pump is a Melling HV pump – M84AHV.  Good pumps, but I still go through them (more on that later).


MSD distributors and Fords have a problem history where the distributor gear is concerned.  This is a model 8580.  If the gear is not in the right place, it can bind against the block.  That’s not good and it throws the gear mesh out a bit.  All that can add up to a destroyed cam and/or distributor gear.  I have not had this problem on any of my motors, but I still check anyway.  I bolt everything together and push down hard on the distributor shaft and check for binding.  None found here.  An added benefit of mockups like this is that it reminds you to go find which box or bag has that durn holddown clamp.  Side note – this motor came to me in pieces, so my “miscellaneous” parts stash has saved my tail several times on this assembly.


With the cam installed, I feel for backlash in the gearing.  Not the most scientific method, but I don’t have anything to get down in there.  There’s very little play and the gear looks to be on the centerline of the cam.  The clip also clears everything.


Cam all moly’ed up and the studs installed, ready for the crank.


The crank all snug in it’s bearings, ARP and Moroso windage tray studs torqued to 85 ft/lbs using ARP lube.  End play comes out to .006.  Spec is .004~.008.  Next step will be to gap the rings and put a couple of piston/rod assemblies in to set the cam timing.


The workhorses here are a set of Eagle 5.78 rods and Probe light weight pistons.   These deviated from stock weight enough that it took four slugs of “heavy metal” (tungsten) and a bunch of laps on the balance machine to get the crank right.  This has all been test fitted before – journals mic’ed, rods assembled with bearings and run through with a bore gauge, clearances checked, etc.  The rods come numbered –randomly– and I used those numbers to mark the bearings so everything goes back together as checked.  Another reason to do a full mock up is to measure the deck so the block can be cut to put the pistons right on the deck.  On this assembly, all were .016 down – pretty easy.  Not all work out like that. This also my first time using floating pins and I’ve been told to lay in extra band aids for working with the spiro locks.


The Probes came with a lot of sharp edges and I massaged them off to prevent hot spots.  


Good rods demand good tools.  I didn't really budget for a rod vice.  But when the rods came out of the box the first time and I looked at the approximate torque figures (nearly 75 ft/lbs), I saw right off that a couple of pieces of wood in the bench vice wasn't going to cut it.  So, I popped for a Proform rod vice from Summit.  It's a really nice tool to have for this job.  I also use a rod bolt stretch gauge.  After using the stretch gauge, I’ll never put in rods without one.  The rod bolts are the most stressed fasteners in the engine, so anything that helps make sure they are correctly installed is just good insurance.


One down 7 to go.  And, no holes in any of my fingers.  You pull the spiro locks apart so they look like a short spring, then just kind of wind them into the groove in the piston.  A small screwdriver helps to work them in.  The first ½ turn in the hardest.  The Probes use two locks per side.  Got them all done and didn't use a single band-aid.

You’ll notice that I did a lot of pre-checking and measuring to check for problems.  My experience has taught me to check as much as I can so problems get worked out early on.  And each engine teaches me something new.  Guess what I learned today?  This one just taught me to check all the piston ring groves when a set of new pistons come out of the box.  These pistons are supposed to be supplied with 1/16, 1/16, 3/16 ring grooves (top, 2nd, oil).  Well, this set was apparently made to their new 2007 specs with the oil ring grooves cut for a 3mm oil ring.  Barry at Survival Motorsports took the oversight up with Probe and they made good on a set of good 3mm oil rings.

I've been hacking at the heads for a couple of months.  I'm living proof that the published numbers mean zip - you want to know the details, you have to measure. These are stock D1AE-GA and the published spec is 62.8. I smoothed and removed very little metal from the chambers and cleaned them up around the valves a bit. The quick CC check found them to be:
#1 - 67.2cc, #4 - 66.6cc, #5 67cc, #8 66.6cc
Exhaust port measured 138 cc, intake with stuffer 224 cc.

We cut the heads .012 to true them up and called it good. That reduced the chamber size to  65.5 cc.  Piston-to-valve clearance is WAY over .100, so no problems there. Push rod length measured out at 8.250 and put the rocker pattern right in the middle of the stem.  I used use 3/8 pushrods and guide plates - same cost as 5/16, so why not.  

Pretty parts:




Flow notes from the home port job:
Intake
.100 - 62.1
.200 - 130.7
.300 - 198.2
.400 - 265.6
.500 - 331.6
.550 - 338.4
.600 - 324.2
.650 - 326.4

Exhaust
.100 - 55.8
.200 - 95.5
.300 - 131.6
.400 - 158.4
.500 - 178.6
.550 - 190.1
.600 - 196.3

The top of the valve train will be double Crane springs, Crane Pro Series pushrods, Comp titanium retainers and super locks (got a deal on them) and a Jomar girdle.


Cam timing is dialed in at 106 centerline, target was 107.  That's 3 degrees retarded from Crane's straight up specs, but simulation shows its good for better torque and HP over the 4000-6800 range, right where I need it.  Converter is designed to stall around 4200, we'll see when it hits the track.  Note - had to use an FRPP 9 way timing chain to get the cam dialed right.  

The intake is a 4V Funnelweb - Funnelweb details: http://raceabilene.com/kelly/hotrod/funnelweb.html

The carb is (was) a home brew Proform 750.  Just got it finally lined out, apparently the front proform metering block had some problem and kept me from finding the tune.  I replaced it with a stock 750 DP front block.  Tested it on the wife's 70 Mustang's 351C race engine.  Tuning stopped at a 4.5 power valve, #40 and #37 shooters, 74 and 88 jets.  The unexpected "problem" with all that is that the Mustang's 60' went down .03~.05, ET went up .07 and MPH went up 1/2 over her old 650 DP.  She went from averaging 7.90s to low 7.80s.  So suddenly it's "her carb".  So I'll be running the 650DP for a while LOL..  

Got the engine in the car and running.


The pushrods and guide plates were the last items.  I tried to get Crane parts but they were back ordered everywhere.  My head guy has connections at Manley and I was able to get some parts finally, after 3 day UPS took 4 days. The Crane double springs were set up at 130 seat and about 350 open at full lift.  Chamber size ended up at 65cc with compression right on 10.5:1.  The Isky "special oiling solid lifters" were installed with the other parts and the lash set at .025 cold.  The lifters have a .024 EDM hole bored in the face for extra lobe oiling.  Installed the 4V Funnelweb and put a Moroso 1" 4 hole spacer and the known good 650DP on the motor.  The Break in went as follows: 5 quarts of CI-4 Rotella 15w-40 and a full quart of GM EOS, prime engine and start.  Had to dial in nearly 40 degres of timing to get it running.  Ran it 5 minutes at 2000~2400 then stop to check things.  Restart, run 10 minutes and then a cool down period, then 5 minutes more.  During the 10 minute run, temp drifted from 180 (t-stat setting) to around 200F.  Not unexpected, being that the car was in the shop with just fans blowing at it.  Deck seal and the cooling system seem to be in good shape.  I intend to try and run the car at 180 because of the higher compression.  I normally run my engines at 200F.

Last minute issues included the carb needing a little rework, deciding what to do about timing and another crack in the block on the passenger side front.  Moroso Ceramic Seal plugged the crack for now; well, at least good enough for the system to hold 7 psi.  Side note - Having brass plugs in the block drains and an electric pump drive make flushing the motor a breeze.

I went through the 650DP and put in a 3.5 power valve and removed some filler wires from the idle feed restrictions in the front metering block.  Idle vacuum was around 7 and rough.  Checked the Moroso spacer and noted that the gasket seal between the bottom of the spacer and the intake was marginal and that the spacer had voids in the bottom around the throttle bores.  I swapped on a Jegs 4 hole spacer that was solid all over and that cleared up the idle a bunch.

With a 4200 stall converter and such low vacuum making the motor not want to idle for squat, there was no need for an advance "curve", so I just locked out the MSD and set it where I wanted it.  I started with 34.  This decision got me a prize - a new Craftsman dial back timing light to replace the old Craftsman that I've had for 33 years.  You can't read those pretty engraved marks on the shiny SFI balancer, so I needed a matching shiny dial back timing light and just drew a big line on the balancer at zero with a marker. It now idles at about 1100 when fully warmed up.  

The header evac tubes are also working.  The exhaust on each side consists of a reducer from 3 1/2 to 3" pipe, about 10" of 3" pipe, a 3" short Dynomax Bullet muffler and a 3" Flowmaster turndown.  I'll add a balance tube after the season.  A bung for an oxygen sensor is welded in the right collector.

With most issues solved or at least on hold, I warmed the motor and set the lash to the recommneded .022.  Had to rework the air pan and hood seal to work with the 7" tall Funnelweb intake.  This was all done Wednesday 9/19 and there was a test and tune scheduled for Thursday only that week.  Track was closed on Firday & Saturday becuase all of us were going to the fall nats at Dallas.  So I put some 91 Shell unleaded in it and loaded it up.  

Thursday brought some family things into the mix, but we had to make some check out runs so it was unload, test, test, load and leave.  You work with the time you've got.  First pass was gentel to check mix with the narrow band O2 sensor and a multimeter.  Looked OK at about 700mv, so I put on the helmet and beat on it.  Made three runs, missing the 1-2 shift point on each because the car revs really quick now.  Seat time will fix that.  Made two passes, then bumped the timing to 36 and made one more.

Weather: baro 28.05, 84F, 47% RH - DA 4030'
Staging at 2000 RPM

Run - 60' - ET/MPH (1/8 mile track)
7:32pm - 1.663 - 7.444/91.71
7:57pm - 1.668 - 7.433/92.29
8:15pm - 1.663 - 7.418/92.38 (timing +2)

I have to think about the converter - it flashes to around 4200 but on the 1-2 and 2-3 shift it only falls back to around 5000.  It's not what I'm used to, but if the car stays fast and consistant I'll not care much.  It's looser that for sure as the car crosses the 1/8 mile stripe at 5600.  Post run checkout at the house revealed a loose throttle connection and that I forgot to put a cap on the manifold port in the carb where I had the vacuum gauge connected.  Du-Oh!  Plugs looked clean, so the mix and timing are OK for now.  Since I was expecting around 7.60s, I was pleasntly surprised.  I loosly figure that at somewhere around 360~400 RWHP.  The car weighs about 3350, maybe 3400 with driver.  It weighed exactly 3005 without driver and with 5 gallons in the fuel cell before the addition of the 8 point roll bar and the sub frame connectors.  Since I crossed under that magic line in the rule book, it's a good thing I already have an SFI 3.2A/1 jacket, the roll bar, aftermarket axles and that my SFI 16.1 5 point harness is up to date.  The flex plate and balancer are also SFI, even though the ET/speed doesn't require it. .  

Friday 9/28, Saturday race day -  I ordered a ProForm 750DP main body and tried to use my "Magic Holley Leftover Parts Box" to build a usable 750DP for the car before the Friday T&T and Saturday's points race.  Couldn't get the 750 to act right after 8 passes (accel pump issues), so I put the 650DP back on the car.  The car promptly went 7.293 @ 93.7 MPH.   Saturday I had traction problems in the left lane and of course got pulled to the left lane every round except one.  Lost in the 3rd round of Modified footbrake with a -.004 red (left lane) but the car turned hard right on the leave.  The pass before was a 7.41 lifting because the car got a little sideways in the lights.  Ya, that was left lane also.  After some pit consultation with a fellow racer running Caltracs and Rancho shocks, we decided to loosen the shocks one click and add one lb of air.  Made a huge difference.  Got the bye run in the 3rd round of Open Trophy and picked the evil left lane.  Car hooked and went fairly straight, 7.41 @ 92.3.  Won the 4th round and got the left lane again in the final and went 7.399 on a 7.38 dial for the win.  I'm sure the 250+ something passes on the 28-10.5 x 15 M/Ts have nothing to do with the traction issues.  But the suspension adjustments got the car back on line.  

Here's a cheezy video of the 7.29 @ 93.7 MPH pass  I think I hear a bitty bit of overspeed on the 1-2 shift.  May need to raise the line pressure in the C4 just a tick.  

Plugs say I'm about dead on in terms of mix, heat range and timing.  Plugs are clean, with a even coating of color on the base ring and the heat mark on the electrode is at the tip, meaning they just a bit are on the cold side.  That's all fine with me, helps keep the engine out of detonation.  

Note that this car is not a gutted race car - it has a full interior (missing one seat - need to win some money rounds to buy a matching seat from Summit), door panels, dash, carpet with insulation, etc.  I leave the back seat out for racing because it weighs over 50 lbs.  Plus there's a full 8 point roll bar in the car.  It also has current Texas antique plates - put the street tires on and drive it to the store.


7.29 is roughly mid/low 11's in the quarter - That's better than expected.  We are for sure having fun now.  It'd probably go 10s if I took all four doors off.
 

Wow...that was a great read!  Thanks for sharing that!  I really enjoyed it.  Awesome little car.  

This is an Awesome post!  Great pictures, writing, engine and car!  

Thanks for the great write up. Makes me want to build an engine. If this sort of thing doesn't help CC's web traffic I don't know what will.  

Good job!  

Very nice, Falcon. I wish more Ford guys would build the Clevelands. I'm so tired of Windsor's everything. The only car I ever drove with one was a friends 72 Mach One. I was pretty impressed with it's power and torque for a fairly stock motor.