This is what i want and mabee doing later this year in my autos class. What I was woundering is if I'm going to have to customixe my motor mounts. And if i can still use the driven clutch fan i will, or other wise how will i conver to a electric style. And for ease of swap I'll probably buy the tranny thats on the motor too, Will I have to shorten the drive shaft?  

What year and make is the car?  

Its a 1984, olds. Cutlass supreme 4 door.  

I'm pretty sure the Olds 307 engine was a factory option for those cars.  If you can find the frame mounts (what the motor mounts bolt to) from the junk yard they should bolt right to your frame and from there the Olds 350 will drop right in.  The transmission will bolt right up (I am not guarenteeing it will hold up to V-8 Power, but it might) and nothing else of the drive train will have to be changed.  You will need the Oldsmobile brackets for the Alt,PS, AC, etc and I would get the Exhaust pipe cross over (the pipe that bolts to the exhaust manifolds) from a small block Olds unless you plan to get the exhaust redone immediately.  Pretty straight forward, shouldn't require any welding or cutting unless you make your own exhaust system.  

My Tranny has been changed from stock what it is tough is a different story. My car right now has no power because of it verry sluggish.  I'm Getting the engine from a complete custom cruser 70's ish with about 100,000 on it. Hopefully not much has been parted from it.  I'm thinking about going dules with an h pipe and cut outs some where.

Do you know, or how to figure out, if the posi rear end will either fit in my rear end or if it will be better to take its rear end out and get it customized to fit my application. (I don't have Rear leef srings) It is a 10 bolt rear end but the factory gear tag is missing.  

I don't have an answer for the rear end, but what ever transmission you have bolted to the V-6 will bolt to the Olds engine without any modification.  Another part you might want to find at a junkyard is the accelerator cable bracket from a 307 Olds so you will have the transmission shift cable holder and the accelerator cable will be the correct distance from the Carb.  

My next question is if their are any upgrages i can make to my suspension. At higher speeds my car likes to vibrate 55 and on could this be bad tie rods or from bad bushings?  I'm really not too arfraid of working what i am afraid of is to find more rst than i expected (ha).  

Vibration at speed is more likely caused by bad tires, unbalanced wheels, bad U-joint, unbalanced driveshaft or worse case bad engine balance.  The first three are the most likely canidates.  Suspension issues usually cause side to side wobbling when trying to drive straight, pulling to one side, clunks and bad tire wear.  The tie rods and bushings fall under the Suspension issues.  I replaced the A-arm bushings in my Skylark while the engine was out before I put the bigger one in.  I'll probably do the rest of the suspension next summer after I see how it handles in all conditions to see what I want. Basically you can get soft rubber parts (OE) or harder aftermarket parts.  

1 st off the car is RWD so no u-joints.  I was thining if i do put in a new engine to replace all the bushings, they don't look too happy. The wobbling sometimes happens at low speed too. I just put new rotors, packed the bearings and new pads, seemed to take kare of it for a while then it started up again.    

Uhh, unless you have some custom exotic driveline in there it should have at least two u-joints.  Replacing bushings is a good way to tighten up the steering and suspension and is easier with the engine out.  

Haha...yeah...there are two u-joints on your Cutlass.  They are on the driveshaft 'bigdog.  I think you may be confusing CV joints...which are common on FWD cars.  

Sorry thinking too fast. I was in class and trying not to be too obvious that i was multi-tasking. Brain fart.  That is what i was thinking of, I know that they did start to go to FWD around this time, and their is an omega that looks like my car that is FWD.  

Hey Big Dog!  You are going to be taking your driveshaft out in order to pull the rest of it anyways.  If you got bad U-Joints, they either will be easy to twist and see movement, or the one at the rear will fall to pieces when you take the two saddle bolts off.  If they need to be replaced, it's easy and they are cheap.  Buy ones with grease zerks.  They will last longer and usually are a better grade.  Price differences between the cheap ones and better ones will be literally a couple of bucks.  

Hope this helps...Bowser    

Hey bowser, In your best opinion, an olds 350 for 300 bucks with everything Compressor, Alterator ext... The JY is willing to try to start it to show me it runs. I pretty sure its a good price, and i Would be rebuilding it. Is it a good price? It has about 100,000 on the clock. I belive its HEI. And is in a custom cruser. (I think i'm seccond guessing my self too much, and not doing more. I wish their was more time in a day. No?)    

BigDog,

get the casting number off the water pump shelf right next to the base for the oil fill tube.  Also check the head casting number on the lower left corner of the head.  For a 350 it should be a number.  That will help determine if it is worth $300.  You want one of the solid main web blocks not the later ones.  I've gotten 350 Olds from a free shortblock to about $200 for a '72 350 carb to oil pan.

-Joe