The headers should be fine. an x pipe after the headers would work well.As for the fan,electric would be the best way to go. I put an electric fan on my car and picked up a tenth of a second at the track.  

Manford:
The headers should be fine. an x pipe after the headers would work well.As for the fan,electric would be the best way to go. I put an electric fan on my car and picked up a tenth of a second at the track.

Carcraft actually did some testing with fans a few months back, in their magazine, and found on a 495 HP 383 Stroker, that you can gain almost 20 HP by using an electric fan. I'm not the best at home engineer when it come to doing electrical stuff, that's why I went to the clutch fan. Also I intend to drive this vehicle in all conditions, hence why I am more comfortable with a mechanical fan. The electric fan is the more expensive to convert, but will give the most performance gains. I took the happy medium of a clutch fan, which cost me about 30 bucks for the blade and clutch assembly, and just had to buy a slightly smaller spacer for 10 bucks. That's at least a 2% gain in HP, not much, that will increase numerically as the engine becomes more built. I have had some expensively bad experiences with fan relays goin bad, also. Like the 3500 dollars it cost me to replace my SOHC Quad 4 in my 92 Grand Am. Now back to my clutch assembly,are there different sizes of clutches? The clutch that I got was a little larger than a coupleof the other clutch fans that the mechanic had? Oh and Clyde if you're still out there buddy, I need to ask about those numbers you gave for my HP and Torque. We're those calculated(estimate) off of the current tuning I have made to the engine already, or was that including the the 400 crank and 283 powerpack heads?   Lastly to the guy who said my engine is cheaply built, look at your Chilton manuals and see what bottom end my engine has. The only difference between the coveted 350 and my 267 is Bore Diameter. Main journals, connecting rods, pushrods, crankshaft, pulleys and everything else is identical including the 8.4:1 Compression. So to say that the 267 was cheaply built would be like saying the 350 was cheaply built, yet the 350 is coveted for it's 4.001 in bore. Like Clyde said in an earlier post, "Volumetric Effiency is determined by cubes." So I'm not gonna see 400 HP from just bolt-ons and a cam, but don't call my engine cheap. Either way if I went full out on that engine, I could get the radical blowers and dual 4 barrel carbs, but that isn't why I'm building it. READ THIS:: If you plan on posting to tell me how dumb I am for not putting a 350 in my car, DON'T POST!!! I don't really want to hear it. I have already started building this engine. I am asking for advice and specs on my engine, and if worst case scenario the engine burns up, I can always get a crate engine and put all my bolt-ons on the 350 crate engine and have 400 HP.  

Compared to the other GM divisions until the late 80's the Chevy 350 was cheaply built.  

That might be why the olds and pont SB parts are more expensive, or cuz they're less common. Anyways I won't need the 283 Power Packs. My 267 heads have 1.72 intake and either 1.48 exhaust valve, or 1.5 valve. The machinist told me to save the heads and slap them on a 350. So I may just port and polish them. I read in another topic that if your valves are too big they will shroud your cylinder and cuse you engine to lose power. On the puls side I was able to locate an AM-FM radio, factory, so I'll finally have some tunes in my ride. The factory radio was AM only, and I hate sports talk. So I may stop at putting the camshaft in it.  

It's actually why the SBC became popular, cheap to find and cheap to fix.  Replace everything on them and you have something.

I think you are going about the best route though. Bolt everything you have to your engine and when either it blows up or you decide to step up it will all go into the new engine and very little if any money lost

Good call on the AM/FM. My T-bird has an AM/8-track and I too quickly got tired of Sports and Fox News. I stepped up with an 8-track to Cassette adapter to Cassette adapter to MP3 player/CD Player adapter.  

I was gonna go with a cd player but a stereo installation requires my dash to be cut so I decided against it.  

Ok I know I have been away for awile, but I figure I'll give one last update on where my car stands at this point. It is faster than a 1999 Oldsmoblie Cutlass, you know the N-platform, with a 160 HP-185 ft-lbs. of torque, 3.1 V6. Me and a friend lined up at a stop light and I jumped out by a half a car length just off the line and by the time we hit around 80mph or so I was a full car length ahead of him. He has an O/D transmission and those cars have a 3.05 final axle ratio at the C/V shafts. So I figure my car has to have at least 160 HP without the camshaft in it, which should put me around a 17.5 qtr mile. Now I realize that isn't much to anyone on here, but that ain't too bad for just bolt-ons. My car was probably a 19 sec car when I bought it. We even looked up Vehicle Weight. His curb weight was 3111 lbs., and mine was 3089 lbs. So the cars were almost dead even with exception to him having a smaller gear ratio through 1st, and 2nd gears. Of course he felt bad cuz his car woud've blew my doors off if mine was still stock.  

Every small victory counts in the battle to go faster     That's how I like it best, small measurable gains make me just as happy as big ones, but the best part is there are more of them     My only regret with my Skylark is never taking it to the track before taking out the v-6 (I bet it would have given you a good run BEFORE you modified your car   )and dropping the new engine and trans in it, and it won't see the track until the 7.5" rear is replaced either    

My #'s were of the total build with the 3.75 srtoke,and very concervative.I am glad to hear your interest is ongoing.With all these negative posts,most simple minded beginers would give up,so you have a goal set train of thought.This is a trait of the individual thinker,not a common follower.Your heads won't breath enough to feed a hungry 350,but if they spec. the same as a powerpak head,use them on the stroked 294 shortblock when its done.Its gonna have-a-lotta torq.Youll need it to turn those longass gears out back.A big wrench on a real tight so you dont work so hard.Give that piston some leverage to work with.  

Ok so with a 400 crank and bored out it'll give me close to 180 to 210 hp and almost 300 ft-lbs. Ok that what I was wonderin'. Um hey Buick was your Skylark a Buick 3.8L 231 V-6??? They were rated for 115 HP back then so that V-6 would've given me quite a run in the beginning. I only had 125 HP @ 3800 RPM. In a note of opinion, I would like to state that this car is the first car I have ever driven with a V-8. I have owned/driven just about every American 80s-90s Inline 4 made. There is just NO COMPARISON to a V-8. I get my 92 Honda Accord up to 90mph on the freeway and all I hear is whining from the strain on the engine. I get that Malibu up to 90, which takes a little less time than the Honda, and the engine is just rumbling along as if saying, "Cmon you wimp you can hit me harder than this! Why don't you drive me like I should driven?" Also I figured that if by some fluke my 267 burns up, I'll go to Grandpa's wrecking yard and get a nice used 350 that'll fit in my car, and I can just bolt all those parts on to it from the boat anchor. I figure a decent 350 with those headers and carb, camshaft, etc. should push about 310 HP and close to 400 ft-lbs. of torque. And the best part about it, it'll be very streetable with a smooth idle, and sparkilng performance, with ok fuel economy. Lastly, Clyde, any idea how much I could expect to spend converting my THM 350 to a 700R-4 transmission? How much could I expect to gain in a Qtr. mile with that transmission?  

The TH350 and 700R4 are different cases,not possible to convert it.Just get a good 1 from a salvage yard and build it with Alto brand components.500 bucks should get it there.Thats Alto.com I believe.They have a Raptor kit for the 700R4 that will hold well into the 500+hp range with a few simple mods.  

The 700r4 has a better first gear ratio than the TH350, but it also means a larger rpm drop between first and second so it just depends on how your engine responds to the drop.  Off the line should be better, but second gear becomes the wild card.  Cost of the 700r4 varies greatly. I bought a core for $200 and had the Trans guy at work r&r it for another $350 including parts because he has some good ones laying around.  Built ready to go ones typically go for about $1200-1500 and as it needs to support more horsepower the more it costs.  Then the little things like crossmember modifications, some are easy some are a pain and drive shaft shortening and balancing usually runs about $100.  

Well guys Income Tan season is right around the corner, so I may get the 700-R4 swap. Part of my reasons is I'll have better performance off the line, and with the O/D, my mileage should improve. The guys at Speedway won't like the too much. They are kinda used to me showing up about 3x a week.  Actually I want to thank you guys for your help on all this. Clyde you we're 100% correct about icreasing my torque improving my MPG. With the stock manifold, 2bbl carb, dual ehaust(no headers), and a K&N air flter, my car was avg. around 16 OR 17 MPG. Now that I have all but the camshaft in it, I am avg. 19.4 MPG combined city and highway, until I try to floor it. If I floor it everywhere I get around 6 MPG. On the highway alone I estimate around 28 MPG. I live in 90 miles from the Laser Storm arena in Pittsburgh, PA. The last trip I took home from there I used approximately 3.5 gallons of gas with a leaking fuel line. When my gas gauge is at 3/4 I have 10 gallons of gas left. When it hits 1/2 I have 7, and I was one needle width under 1/2 when I got home. I started the trip on 3/4. So with an O/D and even with that cam I should EASILY see around 24 MPG combined economy. Which yes I am getting alock-up converter if possible.  

Hey Clyde I don't know if your still out there and I have been away for a long time, but I added a couple of things to my engine. I went with an Accel 45,000 volt coil and Thundervolt 8.2mm wires with 50 ohms/ft. resistence, and Autolite Platinum plugs. How will this affect my car other than it seems to burn the fuel better.  

Car Craft wrote an article on simple engine mathmatics that would come in useful in your situation, the basic theory is that you take your top(max) Rpm number multiplied by your engine displacement divided by, 3,456 multiplied by 0.85, and that should give you an accurate carb selection, I.E. 6000Rpm x 264/3,456 x 0.85 = carb cfm you can read about it on this link

http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles/ccrp_0312_car_craft_math/index.html

Hope it helps